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How do you install front 2" SJR lift blocks on coil over vehicles?


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5 replies to this topic

#1 grossgary

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Posted 16 December 2011 - 02:56 PM

SJR blocks going on an XT6 with coil overs. XT6 struts are identical to EJ front struts with the two lower mounting bolt holes in the strut.

It's easy on normal XT6's with air suspension, install them with the air bags deflated and there's minimal wrestling with the internal damping mechanism.

On these coil over struts though it's not even close to the hub mounting points with the 2" block installed, nowhere near able to push the hub/control arm low enough to insert the strut bolts.

#2 MilesFox

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Posted 17 December 2011 - 12:53 PM

try slipping a long pipe or jack handle between the subframe radius rod mount and the control arm to push it down more.

I would think its easiest to remove the whole strut, install the spacer and strut combo, and then assemble the strut/knuckle to the control arm.

you should be able to unscrew the crossmember nuts on the engine subframe to drop it down about an inch without unbolting it all the way.

or you can try jacking up the trans as if you were going t pull the motor, and drop one side of the engine crossmember at a time to get more wiggle room.

#3 grossgary

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Posted 17 December 2011 - 03:58 PM

try slipping a long pipe or jack handle between the subframe radius rod mount and the control arm to push it down more.

okay, i'll go at it one more time with a friend this time, but it didn't seem close to fitting that way.

I would think its easiest to remove the whole strut, install the spacer and strut combo, and then assemble the strut/knuckle to the control arm.

good, that's close to what i was doing. i installed the strut and was trying to get the strut to install to the hub. i might trying removing the axle and installing that after the strut is in place.

you should be able to unscrew the crossmember nuts

that's a good call but might be a last resort since it seems like motor mounts/pitching rod, power steering linkages, etc are going to keep the cross member from coming down. do you know for sure that it'll come down a bit by just loosening those crossmember to body nuts/bolts?

the coil over struts weren't all that "high" so to speak, they weren't "low" or anything but they don't seem higher than stock air such that it shouldn't fit.

#4 87.5ea82txt

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Posted 25 December 2011 - 12:24 PM

I was able to get the xt strut with blocks on top onto my xt by disconnecting the sway bars on both ends, sliding the strut into the hub, then useing a jack to raise the hub wnile I guide the block bolts through the strut tower holes. It should be that easy for you as well, unless your overal strut length is longer than mine. Keep me updated, homie.

#5 monstaru

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Posted 25 December 2011 - 12:46 PM

Yep, Undo sway bars, stand on that knuckle with your body weight whilst someone guides the bolts into the holes.If that doesna work, then loosen crossmember.It WILL move a skosch.But Will release and move better if you undo the steering linkage.

It kinda blows me away that this is not all common sense to you .You have had a billion of these cars apart.:-pThere are no real tricks, just get'er done!:grin:
cheers

****EDIT:Outback struts have a higher spring perch.*****

Edited by monstaru, 25 December 2011 - 02:36 PM.


#6 87.5ea82txt

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Posted 25 December 2011 - 01:57 PM

Oh, I figured I would mention, I know the xt6 struts are different than the xt, but in my situation of putting blocks on the xt struts, I was not able to make the 28" grabbers fit due to the shorter distance of the strut body and so I am going to have to get longer struts from another model subaru. May not be a problem for you, but I would bust out a tape measure and see how your new struts compare to your old ones to avoid any future headache.




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