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DIY strut lift blocks


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38 replies to this topic

#1 monstaru

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Posted 17 December 2011 - 02:34 AM

Alot of the folks are doing these lifts, so I thought I would go get some plastic and start to cuttin.
So I took me some rear strut covers, and then cut up a front mount to get my templates.
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2" UHMW-PE
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Picked up this little gem for a tool trade and some very minimal cash.
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Also I used a jigsaw with a 6 point per inch tooth to clean up a bunch of stuff after drilling the holes.
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I also sanded a bit :
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Test fitting to see clearance , now is time to mark and drill the holes.
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This is basically how you go about it.Use your head, and be smart about it and you can do it mad cheap ,really.I been looking for an excuse to get a small bandsaw forever.Now I can get a rheostat, and a metal bandsaw blade later:clap:.
Without the bandsaw, I am at $70 bucks.Hell , with the bandsaw and drill bit I'm at $105.

I did this with thick rump roast plastic.Imagine how easy you could make some out of cutting board from the dollar store:popcorn:
cheers

#2 Dylan

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Posted 17 December 2011 - 02:55 AM

Nice!

On mine I counterbored to fit an extra nut.

Not mine, but a good example:
Posted Image

#3 monstaru

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Posted 17 December 2011 - 03:08 AM

Nice!

On mine I counterbored to fit an extra nut.

Not mine, but a good example:
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I would rather leave that material, although I would think it would hold up.
I will just tack the new bolts on from behind.no big thing.;)
cheers

#4 bratman18

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Posted 17 December 2011 - 08:44 AM

Great idea. And I have access to all the tools needed. Brian, where did you get the thick plastic?

#5 monstaru

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Posted 17 December 2011 - 01:40 PM

I got the UHMW from Laird plastics.They are an international company .There are also some good deals for it on E-bay.Ijust happened to be impatient and wanted to do it without waiting on shipping.

cheers

#6 Dylan

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Posted 17 December 2011 - 04:04 PM

The steel suppliers around here carry all kinds of plastics. I would give the local metal yards a call and ask them.

A 12" X 6" X 1.25" chunk of delrin cost me $9.

#7 monstaru

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Posted 17 December 2011 - 10:20 PM

The steel suppliers around here carry all kinds of plastics. I would give the local metal yards a call and ask them.

A 12" X 6" X 1.25" chunk of delrin cost me $9.


I went to a Plastics supplier so that I could get the knowledge of the folks that work there.Priceless.
cheers

#8 sifu

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Posted 20 December 2011 - 11:30 PM

This is a good write up. Now all that the board needs is one on the subframe spacers. That would ring up to be about $600 value. :slobber:

#9 flight_of_pain

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Posted 21 December 2011 - 12:36 AM

I have a mill up here on the north side... just FYI :)


Isaac

#10 monstaru

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Posted 21 December 2011 - 02:26 PM

This is a good write up. Now all that the board needs is one on the subframe spacers. That would ring up to be about $600 value. :slobber:


IT is really simple when you look at the underside of your car.If you cannot figure it out, you probably do not need to tackle it.All of the info to teach you how to figure it out is in the FAQ, AND several threads here.
cheers

FYI, Stella will always the baddest rump roast OBS in the land.I promise.:popcorn:

#11 3eyedwagon

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Posted 21 December 2011 - 06:01 PM

OMG, are you sure that's safe?!? :grin:

#12 Subarutex

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Posted 21 December 2011 - 08:52 PM

OMG, are you sure that's safe?!? :grin:


Not a chance in hell... Thats why he's doing it :headbang:

#13 El Presidente

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Posted 21 December 2011 - 10:03 PM

I'm curious, what platform is this lift for?

#14 monstaru

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Posted 21 December 2011 - 10:31 PM

Impreza.

#15 sifu

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Posted 21 December 2011 - 11:16 PM

IT is really simple when you look at the underside of your car.If you cannot figure it out, you probably do not need to tackle it.All of the info to teach you how to figure it out is in the FAQ, AND several threads here.
cheers

FYI, Stella will always the baddest rump roast OBS in the land.I promise.:popcorn:


haha. We shall see. But in response to it being brain-dead easy, 3 things:

1- What seems easy for one with extensive knowledge isn't that way for a novice.
You fabricated your first cross member at 4 years old.
Me- WTF is a transmission cross member?



2-Contradicting, incomplete information online.
Trust me. I got a strut swap, tire swap, lift spacers, light rig, even paint job thanks to usmb and DI, but can't get the body block info.


3-Resources to fabricate.
So let's say I get past 1 & 2. Shaping and cutting metal isn't easy with a couple of screw drivers and a hammer.

So what can I do about it?
1. Pay someone to help
2. Get help and contribute help on these boards.

Neither is working out.

#16 monstaru

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Posted 21 December 2011 - 11:37 PM

Then I would read more, and start saving pennies.:rolleyes:
Everyone started somewhere, and the only difference between them and you is patience.
If you are going to have someone make them for you , then THEY should look at the mounting points to grasp an understanding.
It IS really simple.
Make a block for every point the body mounts to the suspension.

There are threads on here showing pics of all the blocks from a Legacy with an 5mt.

You are in a warm climate, go lay on the ground under your car for a minute.And really LOOk.
cheers

#17 3eyedwagon

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Posted 22 December 2011 - 12:50 AM

3-Resources to fabricate.
So let's say I get past 1 & 2. Shaping and cutting metal isn't easy with a couple of screw drivers and a hammer.

So what can I do about it?
1. Pay someone to help
2. Get help and contribute help on these boards.

Neither is working out.



Hey, guess what! You are in luck. I'm living over on Thomas Rd. in Phx, and I can meet you to point at what you need to do. I've never done an Impreza, but, it can't be that complicated. Unfortunately, my shop wouldn't fit it the trunk of my Buick, but, you could make a cut list, and have a shop cut/drill what you need. I also didn't bring any Metric tools since I'll be working on Amurrrican cars. I'd help you if I had more equipment, and space, but, I can help you figure what you need to do.:)

#18 monstaru

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Posted 22 December 2011 - 01:40 AM

[quote name='3eyedwagon']Hey, guess what! You are in luck. I'm living over on Thomas Rd. in Phx, and I can meet you to point at what you need to do. I've never done an Impreza, but, it can't be that complicated. Unfortunately, my shop wouldn't fit it the trunk of my Buick, but, you could make a cut list, and have a shop cut/drill what you need. I also didn't bring any Metric tools since I'll be working on Amurrrican cars. I'd help you if I had more equipment, and space, but, I can help you figure what you need to do.:)

There ya go!

#19 sifu

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Posted 22 December 2011 - 02:17 AM

This is very cool. Thanks for the offer. I'm in Gilbert, but we'll figure it out, no sweat. I think I can gain access to some metal cutting and punching.

From my understanding there are about 7 or so sets of pieces required (although several more are mentioned) for the body lift.



Front + Rear subframe spacers

transmission cross members

longer steering joint

Front + Rear differential support spacers

Longer steering joint

control arm mounting surface

Front and rear cross members



These have also been mentioned, but infrequently.

pitch rod

transverse link bushings



I'm trying to figure out what is necessary and rank in importance. I realize this is as boring as 7th grade algebra homework, but any input on this would be greatly appreciated.

#20 espey_16

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Posted 29 December 2011 - 09:05 PM

Could the uhmw be used for a 3-4 inch lift? Or is it not advisable? I found some 6" diameter pieces that are 5 3/4- 6 1/2 long.

#21 monstaru

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Posted 29 December 2011 - 11:12 PM

It could be done of you inset a nut somehow.I would not use a long bolt as the stresses are amplified the farther away the mounting surfaces are.

I basically did those because I wanted to show people how they could do a strut lift themselves.Inn smaller sizes of course.I however did 2 inchers.Which comes with other issues.Like mounting, etc...

I ended up using my metal strut blocks , because I did not have time to figure out the mount issues in time.These blocks are actually like 2 5/8ths ish the rest of my blocks are 2"ers....Thought I should clarify that

I may come back to them eventually,but for anyone that is JUST doing a STRUT LIFT, I would recomend 1.5 inches and under :) for sure.

I will say it again.You can do this with a drill, hacksaw(with wood blade), and some time, enginuity, maybe a few barley pops, and some love for your garage.

anyways.
If youa re not using the suspension in it's full range , you could get away with higher on just a strut lift.It seems that The magic number is
cheers

Edited by monstaru, 29 December 2011 - 11:15 PM.


#22 3eyedwagon

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 12:33 AM

Do you have any AutoCAD prints you could send me? :grin:

#23 monstaru

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 02:00 AM

Do you have any AutoCAD prints you could send me? :grin:

I'll get right on that.I'll be sure to send the FUQ with it. I mean FAQ... :)
:lol:

#24 Ruby Sue

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Posted 09 January 2012 - 12:24 AM

So will this kind of lift work for an 87 GL wagon?

#25 3eyedwagon

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Posted 09 January 2012 - 12:56 AM

So will this kind of lift work for an 87 GL wagon?


Dude..... do more research. -Monstaru-


Irony, thine name is location.:-p

The answer, YES. Use search, and the FAQ. The info is all out there for the taking. Most of the originators are a short drive from you.... Go get it.:burnout:




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