So from the sounds of it, it must now go. And from the looks of it, it might the original alternator, and if that's the case it now has just shy of 165K on it. Not to shabby if you ask me!
Now comes the question of what alt to get, since a new "stock" one for my car cost $135 (seems over priced) from the dealer, and I don't want a reman unit from a chain store since they seem to fail all the time. After talking with a couple of board members off the board and doing some searching on the board, I started calling around to see what I could come up with. I called a "local" alternator rebuild shop, and they wanted $89 for an "in house" (aka not china) rebuild after core exchange. A little pricy, but not too bad for a quality rebuild.
Then GD mentioned the "$70 1997 recall alternator", but with one catch, you need to rewire the three prong plug to a 2 prong plug. Even with the catch, this sounds more promising and cheaper! Supposedly you just call up your local dealer and ask for a 1997 legacy/outback reman alternator, and it should only be about $70 after core exchange, and then rewire the plug. Sounds simple, right? WRONG! Well, it is simple once you find a dealer that won't price ************ you! I had to call 4 different dealers to be able to find one for a good price. 4 stupid dealers! And one of them was going to charge me $201 for the alt (before core exchange)! WTF?
Finally after calling Lithia of Oregon City (thanks GD for recommending them!), I was able to find the correct part for the right price. BUT, they are down in Oregon, and I am in Oly Washington, and I need my car soon. So shipping was not an option, and I was not driving down to Oregon City for a stupid alt. Too much time, and I don't want to pay more for something I should be able to pick up locally.
With part number in hand (Part number: 23700AA34ARA for the reman alt) I called Mike Scraff Subaru in Auburn, WA, since they were mentioned quite a few times on the board. Gave them the part number, and what do ya know, it's $78 after core exchange! WOOHOO! This part does exist at a good price! I then decided to call my local dealer back and see if I could get the "correct" price for this part so I didn't have to drive up to Auburn just for better pricing. Got the parts guy on the phone, gave him the part number, and the price AFTER core exchange... $135! WTF? Seriously? So I told the guy that I could drive up to Auburn and pick this same part up for $78. His response, "Sorry Man". So needless to say I am heading up to Auburn on Saturday to get my reman alt.
Anybody in Olympia Washington that needs parts, DO NOT order them from Hansen Subaru! They WILL and DO charge more for their parts than other dealers. Call up Mike Scarff Subaru in Auburn, real nice guys, and good pricing, so it's worth the drive for sure!
Now that I found my alt, I need to wire up the newer alt to my older EJ. After some searching on here, I found some good info:
And this one kinda applies, although it's for a Ej swap:
But no pics or diagrams for EJ to EJ conversion, just EA to EJ, although I suspect that they are close to the same setup. So I am changing that now.
So here's the qoute that sums up what needs to happen the best I think:
"Large white wire: this is where (as you’ve probably guessed) all the current is. This can be connected directly to the positive battery terminal (a large fusible link is a very good idea), but it might be easiest just to connect directly to the large white wire that went to your old Alt.
Yellow wire: This wire is for the voltage regulator. It needs 12v+ when the ignition is on. Very little draw here, so it can come from virtually anywhere. There is an existing wire in the EA harness that will work well for this.
Black with White: This is for the charge light on the dash. It will get grounded if the yellow is getting 12v+ but the alt is not charging. Completely optional."
And here's some FSM diagrams for a 92 (which should be very similar to my 90) and a 97:
From the looks of it, all I need to do is wire in the yellow wire to the ignition on circuit (key on), then splice in a plug for the new alt, and I should be good to go. I am correct in this assumption?
So now my next question is... Where in the engine bay would be the best place to tap into ignition power? I don't want to run another wire into the cab, but I can if need be. I would rather tap into a power source in the engine compartment. I will have to research this a little bit more...
The biggest reason I want to do this is because of cost. $78 is alot cheaper than $135 for my stock replacement. It also has the side benefit of allowing me to swap in a higher output WRX alt for a better price as well. I can get more power for cheaper when buying a WRX alt compared to my stock alt. So this conversion will also save me money when I go to a higher output alt.
I should also mention that I will probably be running some 4awg form the batt to the new alt as well, just for kicks and grins. I got the wire laying around, so I might as well use it. So when that's done, I will have done the "Big 3" that is always talked about when upgrading alts.
As of now I have not even removed my dead alt, so once I do that, and re-route the yellow wire and tap it into something, I will take pics and notes of what I do.
More to come soon!
Edited by eulogious, 30 December 2011 - 06:52 AM.