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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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CLUTCH pedal just came off?! '87 GL


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51 replies to this topic

#1 Moosen

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Posted 17 January 2012 - 10:02 AM

So i just went outside literally like 5 minutes ago to go to work, push in the clutch pedal and start the car. I am holding in the clutch letting the car warm up. then put the car in neutral and let out the clutch. Then i push back in the clutch and hear a metal kind of breaking sound and boom my clutch is on the floor and loose. its like there is no tension on the pedal and its not doing anything. just flopping around? will get some pictures in a bit, when it gets less cold outside.

Really hope this is an easy fix cause I can't afford much and I absolutely need my car!

#2 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 17 January 2012 - 10:35 AM

Seems like your Subie's Clutch cable just snapped... if so, You'll only need to replace it.

You can either search for a good used one at your local Junk yards, or (Better Idea) Buy a new one, it will not be too expensive.

Good Luck!

Kind Regards.


#3 Moosen

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Posted 17 January 2012 - 11:05 AM

Seems like your Subie's Clutch cable just snapped... if so, You'll only need to replace it.

You can either search for a good used one at your local Junk yards, or (Better Idea) Buy a new one, it will not be too expensive.

Good Luck!

Kind Regards.


How hard is it to replace myself?

oh and mind you it is like -5 degress outside... so the cold probably had something to do with it.

is this it? http://thmotorsports...4/i-130150.aspx cc894 because of the 4wd right?

Edited by Moosen, 17 January 2012 - 11:18 AM.


#4 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 17 January 2012 - 11:19 AM

First of all I Kindly suggest you to wear your Winter clothes... because its Winter time there.

You'll need to remove the under-the-Dash plastic Panels to expose the Pedals' mountings and then you will be able to check properly what is really goin' on there.

You'll need to be Sure that the Cable is Snapped: it could be Snapped from three usual places: the Clutch pedal's Head, the pressure plate's head, or in the Middle - specially if the old cable had a bad route that twisted it to work.

If so, you'll need to completely remove and take out the whole Clutch pedal assembly, because the new clutch cable's head needs to be retained and the retainer is only accesible by removing the pedal.

Then you'll need to unhook the Clutch cable from the Clutch's pressure plate's Lever.

Then, remove the Old Clutch cable and place the new one in the correct Route: Usually as the old one was placed.

Finally, Hook both ends' heads of the new Clutch cable and Put the Clutch pedal back in its place... and Voilá!

That's it... But you'll need to be Sure that the Culprit is a Worn clutch Cable.

Anyhow, you'll need to remove those plastic panels to check what's goin' on.

Good Luck!
Kind Regards

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 17 January 2012 - 11:21 AM.


#5 Moosen

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Posted 17 January 2012 - 11:21 AM

First of all I Kindly suggest you to wear your Winter clothes... because its Winter time there.

You'll need to remove the under-the-Dash plastic Panels to expose the Pedals' mountings and then you will be able to check properly what is really goin' on there.

You'll need to be Sure that the Cable is Snapped: it could be Snapped from three usual places: the Clutch pedal's Head, the pressure plate's head, or in the Middle - specially if the old cable had a bad route that twisted it to work.

If so, you'll need to completely remove and take out the whole Clutch pedal assembly, because the new clutch cable's head needs to be retained and the retainer is only accesible by removing the pedal.

Then you'll need to unhook the Clutch cable from the Clutch's pressure plate's Lever.

Then, remove the Old Clutch cable and place the new one in the correct Route: Usually as the old one was placed.

Finally, Hook both ends' heads of the new Clutch cable and Put the Clutch pedal back in its place... and Voilá!

That's it... But you'll need to be Sure that the Culprit is a Worn clutch Cable.

Anyhow, you'll need to remove those plastic panels to check what's goin' on.

Good Luck!
Kind Regards


Thank you so much!. I will get on that. man it is cold outside though. haha.

#6 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 17 January 2012 - 11:22 AM

...is this it?

http://thmotorsports...4/i-130150.aspx cc894 because of the 4wd right?


Yes, that is it and I Believe it should be the Same for the 2WD or 4WD models.

Kind Regards.


#7 Moosen

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Posted 17 January 2012 - 11:38 AM

Does anybody have a picture of what it should look like? i cant tell but it looks like the cable isn't even attached?

#8 Turbone

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Posted 17 January 2012 - 11:45 AM

Posted Image

#9 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 17 January 2012 - 11:46 AM

... but it looks like the cable isn't even attached?


This is the usual "Feeling" you'll have on any "Snapped" Cable...

How could it be still atached if it is Bursted?



#10 Moosen

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Posted 17 January 2012 - 11:50 AM

Posted Image

the part in red is not there. i think that might be where the cable attached and a pin goes through? but i may be way off. i just know there is no cable attached to the pedal anywhere that i can see. and it looks like there is a hole about 3/4 of the way up with nothing there. i believe that is where the pin should go throught o hold the cable to it? i will take a picture later. i have to go to work though.

#11 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 17 January 2012 - 11:54 AM

I Believe that you Surrounded the Brake Pedal, not the Clutch one but I Understand your Idea: Maybe the Lockin' pin just fell off somehow...

Posted Image



#12 Flowmastered87GL

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Posted 17 January 2012 - 03:34 PM

I suppose its possible that the little pin that holds on the clutch cable sheared, but I more likely suspect the cable. Mine broke on my GL (back when I had it) 7+ years ago. so age-wise yours is overdue if its original. You can always take the clutch pedal off its pivot (remove the nut from the end and it slides off) to get a better look. Crawling under the dash is not fun. I think it took me around an hour to install my cable (Get a new one if its indeed the cable broken) (as oppsed to a junkyard one which may break any day)

#13 robm

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Posted 17 January 2012 - 04:48 PM

The easiest way to get under the dash is to lower the seatback all the way, and lie on your back with your head under the dash and your legs in the back seat, upside down, almost like being at the dentist.

#14 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 17 January 2012 - 05:33 PM

Holy Cow! ... Good advice.

That's the way How I did sometimes to crawl under the Dash and reach some sneaky spots.

So, have you already searched what's wrong there?


#15 987687

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Posted 17 January 2012 - 08:20 PM

You have to take the whole clutch pedal off the replace the cable on a GL?

I had this happen on a legacy. It was the middle of winter. It only took about 15 minutes to replace. It's really not a big deal.

#16 Moosen

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Posted 17 January 2012 - 11:09 PM

I was at work all day. just got home. I will take a look tomorrow maybe.

#17 Moosen

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Posted 18 January 2012 - 12:02 PM

Alright guys! I got some really good pictures. Unfortunately or fortunately ( i don't know) the cable is actually attached to the pedal still. I went to the engine side of things and took off my spare. and the bracket where the cable runs is just mangled it looks like. What do i need to do? Is this the culprit?

Do i need a new bracket? new cable? or can i jerry rig it to hold the cable back?

Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image
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and i dont know if you can see in this picture, but this is the clutch pedal assembly and the cable is still attached to the pedal.
Posted Image

Edited by Moosen, 18 January 2012 - 12:09 PM.


#18 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 18 January 2012 - 12:25 PM

Seems like you already found the Culprit...

You can re-attach the Cable in its place, but somehow it looks like it could break soon.

Also, it seems to be loose...

Good Luck!


#19 hooziewhatsit

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Posted 18 January 2012 - 02:46 PM

The engine side of that looks fine to me. Dirty, but ok.

If the cable is broken, you should be able to grab the engine side of the cable and pull it all the way out. If it doesn't come out, it's not broken. If the cable is one piece, it makes me wonder if the clutch fork broke :(

In the diagram, #s 16, 17, & 18 are on the clutch/clutch pedal. The Red box is the brake pedal.

#20 Moosen

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Posted 18 January 2012 - 04:35 PM

Hoozie you were right. I just grabbed the cable and pulled it all the way out. it was snapped. also took off the clutch pedal as you can see. really wasnt difficult. will it be more difficuly to re run the cable? ordering it tonight.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Edited by Moosen, 18 January 2012 - 05:36 PM.


#21 robm

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Posted 18 January 2012 - 05:36 PM

There should be return spring that pulls the fork forward to take up the slack in the cable, and stops it from jumping out of the fork. It also looks like you have too much slack. Adjust the cable so the fork only moves 3-4 mm (Maybe a bit more? I can't remember the spec.), put on the return spring, and see if that works.

The cable looks worn, and will probably have a short life.

#22 Moosen

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Posted 18 January 2012 - 05:45 PM

There should be return spring that pulls the fork forward to take up the slack in the cable, and stops it from jumping out of the fork. It also looks like you have too much slack. Adjust the cable so the fork only moves 3-4 mm (Maybe a bit more? I can't remember the spec.), put on the return spring, and see if that works.

The cable looks worn, and will probably have a short life.


Did you see my last post :-p

#23 robm

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Posted 18 January 2012 - 06:40 PM

Nope, I must have missed it. At least there is no doubt about the problem now!

You still need a return spring.

#24 Moosen

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Posted 18 January 2012 - 10:51 PM

Nope, I must have missed it. At least there is no doubt about the problem now!

You still need a return spring.


Will the return spring come on the new cable i ordered?

#25 the sucker king

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Posted 18 January 2012 - 11:10 PM

Will the return spring come on the new cable i ordered?


no you should either call the dealership and add it to your order or you can get a spring of the right length and stiffness at any hardware store.




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