12 replies to this topic

[peebo74]

My 87 GL-10 turbo started in my driveway and ran for about 5 seconds then died. It cranks over nicely but won't start. It is getting good fuel at the fuel rail. It has good spark at all 4 plugs. I have read that these have a crank position sensor that can go out. I can't find where it is located on my engine(ea82). Does anyone know if this could be the problem and where it is? My thought is the injectors are not getting the signal to fire. Any ideas are welcome.

Thanks

[Gloyale]

Crank sensor is in the Disty.

Pull the cap off the disty, and check that the rotor is secured to the disty shaft. There is a little screw that likes to fall out.....when it does, the rotor spins and makes spark but at totally random timing.

[AKghandi]

Yep I've gotten quite A few with the disty screw gone.. Always nice to get a car with a 20 second fix lol

[man on the moon]

Check the ECU. Under the dash there is a kickboard that covers the steering column/etc. The ECU is behind that. If you contort yourself to look up at it, you'll see a hole facing the seat with a little LED in it, and when you crank you should see a blinking light (or just put the key to 'run'). It will blink a code at you or long and short blinks. Sometimes multiple codes, so watch until the cycle starts over. There are code lists in the forum if you search, or in a chilton's/Haynes.

If it is the crank sensor, that is in the disty as was stated. Easiest way is to replace the whole distributor. As for the rotor, I had that happen to me. Loyale died while I was driving...cost me two weeks and $250 for a ten dollar/ten minute fix...sigh. Hope that saves you the same trouble .

[Cougar]

Along with the rotor, check for a broken timing belt.

[peebo74]

I was able to take a look at the distributor and the little screw was in place. Was really hoping that was the problem. Not enough time to look at any other ideas yet. Broken timing belt? I assume the best way to look into this problem would be to remove passenger side cover on front of engine. Vissually inspect belt and gear to see no teeth missing. I assume driver side belt is still working as the distributor still works. Is this thinking correct? Help and ideas still appreciated!

[man on the moon]

No need to remove the covers to check the belts, at least if you or someone nearby has small fingers. There are two rubber hole covers down near the crank pulley, one on each side. Each covers a pair of holes (one cover for two holes, two covers/four holes total). One cover is on the driver side, one on the passenger side. Pull the covers and wiggle your finger around inside or look with a flashlight. If the belt is snug, it's ok. If it's loose/moves...you have a problem.

Incidentally, if your passenger side belt is the one broken the car should at least try to start (if I'm not mistaken). The driver side belt will keep it from running, but not the passenger side. And it's a non-interference engine, so no problem if it is broken. It is also possible the belt/s jumped a tooth, which you can't check without removing the covers.

[swampbrat]

Mine did the exact same thing. Spark looked good but only the short wire truly had good spark. Was a fairly new disty cap. Button was not realy connected in center.

[peebo74]

Finally had some time to work on the car this weekend. Still no luck in getting it started. The distributor cap looks great. I did replace it a few months back so it is fairly new. Was able to see the flashing led under the dash. It flashes three times in a relatively fast time. A short pause and then three flashes again. It does this over and over. I watched it for about 2 minutes to see if it would do anything else and it never did. I think this means it has not stored a code. Am I right or do I not understand what I am seeing? Any more Ideas. I have been working on cars my whole life and have a fairly good idea of what I am doing. This has me pulling out my hair!

[AKghandi]

My 87 gl10 is doing the exact same thing runs for 5 seconds and dies check your intake boot from the Maf to the turbo that was one problem I had. But now mines showing code 21 which is coolant temp sensor so maybe yours isn't bad enough to throw a code but still bad enough to mess with it.

[MilesFox]

the best way to check a broken(or stripped) timing belt is to watch for the rotor to turn while cranking. sometimes teeth can sheer off the belt, although it is not broken, and can be out of time while still turning.

refer to the 'art of subaru maintenance' sereis on the youtube to check the timing rotation

[Cougar]

If the rotor turns while cranking the engine and the passenger side T-belt is ok also then check for spark getting to the plugs next. If that is ok then you need to check the compression to see if a T-belt slipped. You will most likely find where the trouble is in one of those steps.

[peebo74]

sorry for the long delay but have not had time to work on car. Finally found some time to check on a few of all the good ideas. After inspecting the timing belt through the front cover and determining the belt was not broken I then was atempting to check timing with a timing light when the enginge began to fire on one cylinder. After several tries of long startings it began to fire on two cylinders. It then started and ran like crap for a few minutes. After it warmed up it began to smooth out and run like normal. I shut it off and then started it again. The next morning it started again. I have yet to drive it anywhere but it acts like nothing happened. Long story short I may never know what the heck was wrong with my little subbie. Thanks to all that gave ideas and while I would really like to give someone credit for having the right idea I just dont know what was wrong! Thank you very much and I hope this doesn't keep anyone awake like it did me!