AKghandi Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 (edited) Made a video to explain the problem http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4b-SpA8k_Nk Any help will be greatly apriciated 87 gl-10 ea82t Edited January 30, 2012 by AKghandi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 (edited) It is over fueling for some reason. Shouldn`t even run w/the pipe off and no MAF signal to the ECU. Try unplugging the MAF.CTS too. Fuel pressure too high because of a clogged return line or stuck regulator perhaps. Air filter OK? Edited January 30, 2012 by naru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 Yeah the air filter is new and yeah is seems to be getting to much fuel before when it was doing this it was because the intake boot was leaking ill have to heck the regulator it should be the same on an spfi correct? I'm at my witts end and I'm completely broke. The regulator makes sense tho. I'll check that when my hands thaw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Pretty sure SPFI regs are different. I can say for sure,they have different part #s. Check that the vacuum line isn`t blocked. Try unplugging the MAF. Suppose it could be 1 or more wonky injectors as well. If nothing else works,I would try unplugging them one at a time.Not fun in the cold.I sympathize. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 Yeah the cold sux although when I smash my knuckles the blood freezes and doesn't make a mess so I guess there's a silver linning I went out and started to unhook the return line then smashed my knuckle. So I'm back inside for a few minutes dressing wounds lol I hope the regulators are the same I don't have 141.89 to spend. I barely have .99 to spend.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 Ok so the reg is working and the return isnt clogged got any other ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Try unplugging the MAF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 Ok so I unplugged the Maf . It helped a lil bit then when I plugged it back in the Maf started clicking like crazy and the car died so it might be the Maf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 I'll make another video in a sec here to show you what I mean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XffOhVxQ7zY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 The clicking MAF is weird. Check to see if the flap moves freely thru the full range.Maybe it does not return to idle position. I`d suggest checking resistances too. Unfortunately,I don`t have specific specs for your car. Maybe someone else can help out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 Yeah I need to buy a voltmeter so I can check the resistance I actually have several repair books and a fsm for my car. What do you mean " flap"? This is the first I've heard of this I know my car uses a hot wire and a cold wire system in the Maf if you have a picture of what your talking about it would make figuring it out much simpler if not I guess I'll just burry my head in a Haynes or chilton manual till I figure it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Pardon me if I`m incorrect. I assumed from your board name the car is an 86.They don`t have hot wire MAFs. 86s have flapper MAFs. Airflow moves a flap which moves a potentiometer. They also incorporate an air temp sensor. FSM should show this. Here is waay too much info on very similar ones. http://the944.com/afm.htm If yours is the hotwire type,clean it carefully w/throttle body cleaner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 (edited) Yeah I get that a lot but my current gl-10 is an 87 lol sorry for any confusion And right before this all started I cleaned the Maf with crc Maf cleaner it was running perfect better than it has ever run then it just started doing this again And when I put the Maf back after cleaning it all the hot/cold wires were intact. Edited January 30, 2012 by AKghandi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Have you checked the ECU for any error codes yet? If not I suggest you do that. It may provide some clues to the trouble. You may also have a stuck injector causing the trouble. That would not generate a error code. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 Yeah it doesn't have any codes ( In u check mode) haven't tried the other modes. I'll check the injectors in a few minutes. I can't remember if this is correct but doesnt the. Alternator have something to do with the fuel pump? Bad voltage regulator giving it too much fuel maybe. This did all start after I replaced the alternator.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 I went out and started it this morning still has the same problem but it seems to be getting worse now with the turbo pipe connected it won't rev up at all. The ECM is flashing code 2 ( 2 short flashes) which I think means no codes I'll have to check my book tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 (edited) Update! I put the alternator back to the way it was and now I can almost drive it. It spools up and gives all the power she had before but it revs up like crap, like before. Although notably the backfires have stopped. And now the cel is on showing code 21 again which makes no sense because I just replaced the CTS and it wasn't showing that code before I swapped out the alternator... Ow. My brain hurts.. Edited January 30, 2012 by AKghandi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 Drove it to drop my brother off at work it's now on the side of the road. M**********r and the walk in the snow was fun too. So now I'm thinking it might be the exhaust something is getting very hot and making a smell I don't recognize it's not the cats because well I don't have any.ill unbolt it when I get the car home see if that makes a difference but I doubt it will.. I think this car just doesn't want to run anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted January 31, 2012 Author Share Posted January 31, 2012 Ok I got it home I would really like some more input though as this is still a very serious problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 There may be something wrong with the CTS circuit and not the sensor itself. I think the code covers both areas. I suggest you check out the injector and make sure it is working ok. It may be faulty and letting too much fuel flow. You didn't state how you made sure the fuel pressure regulator was ok but that is possible source of the trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted January 31, 2012 Author Share Posted January 31, 2012 (edited) well.. i don't have any kind of troubleshooting tools so i just unhooked the return line to make sure it was at least letting fuel out(quite alot of it) and i also checked the return to make sure it wasn't clogged. havent checked the vacuum line to it yet. yeah its definitely running rich. really rich which makes me think it might be the coolant temp sensor system, because that's the only code its showing. ill head out in a few and check the wires to see if they're crossed or grounding somewhere and while im out there i might as well clean the plugs and back blow the fuel filter. i should have a little money tomorrow so if all goes well i can go out to the subie grave yard and snag all the sensors off one of our fallen friends Edited January 31, 2012 by AKghandi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Spend $10 on a meter to troubleshoot the CTS code. Check sensor resistance. Check resistance of the wires back to the ECU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted January 31, 2012 Author Share Posted January 31, 2012 I wish I had 10 bucks. But I wont have any cash till tomorrow, so i get to just look at things. But as soon as I can I will definitely do that. Here in a few minutes ill go out and check for anything obvious.. maybe a wire cracked when i was moving things around. I do have a test light so i can check to see if its getting power Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Careful w/that test light around the CTS wires. It draws too much current and won`t work on 5 volts anyhow. A LED type test light would be safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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