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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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My '83 GL: Safariwagon-III


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1696 replies to this topic

#526 FlatFourFrenchy

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 07:35 PM

I'm not sure on where you can buy the 15" Allied Armament wheels that a lot of USMBers run? I can't fine their web site, I assume they have one, yeah?

I wouldn't mind getting onto a set of those wheels. :burnout:


I found the site at www.sosfab.com They are 15's but I can't find pic from my phone. $400.

#527 TheLoyale

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 08:41 PM

Ah cool, thanks! :popcorn:

#528 TheLoyale

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Posted 01 April 2012 - 05:14 PM

Trailing arm finished up with High-solids based enamel.
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I realigned my door, it now closes easy without getting hung up.
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#529 Idasho

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Posted 01 April 2012 - 05:26 PM

lookin' good dude.

Bravo for bringing this one back. :headbang:

#530 TheLoyale

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Posted 01 April 2012 - 10:13 PM

I'm gonna put this is my thread vs opening a Want ad (As I don't have a sh*t ton of money to blow on this right now) But I am looking for a EA82 rear disc swap (Backing plates, Rotors, Calipers and Caliper brackets)

PM me if you have this and can hold it for a little bit.
-Thomas

#531 TheLoyale

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Posted 02 April 2012 - 04:23 PM

I noticed something about the '81 GL in the junkyard, I took off the Valve covers, and there isn't any Rocker adjustment on them? So this motor has HLAs? Which would make it 85+, correct? Interesting.

#532 TheLoyale

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Posted 02 April 2012 - 05:14 PM

The light at the end of the tunnel is finally getting brighter. My tank/rockers/fuel pump are gonna be shipped out (Once I get the price) I can't really make any other moves on this car until I get those shipped, cause I need to make sure I have enough backup funds to cover the shipping.

This will be one less headache on my plate!

#533 TheLoyale

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Posted 02 April 2012 - 06:52 PM

So total price for shipping Fuel Tank, Rockers and Fuel Pump from WA to WI is about $132 Parcel Post.

So now I am into all this stuff for $380 :horse: But I guess thats the price you pay for an old Subaru.

Again, a big thanks to the generous souls of the USMB and to Subruise.

#534 VaporTrail

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Posted 02 April 2012 - 08:26 PM

I noticed something about the '81 GL in the junkyard, I took off the Valve covers, and there isn't any Rocker adjustment on them? So this motor has HLAs? Which would make it 85+, correct? Interesting.


Or 84 AT.

#535 TheLoyale

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Posted 02 April 2012 - 11:56 PM

For future reference, are you supposed to adjust the front and rear tension while the vehicle is on the ground or up in the air?

Which way do I turn the rear adjustment bolt to increase tension, Clockwise or Counter-Clockwise? Also, how can I be certain that I adjust both front struts evenly?

#536 VaporTrail

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Posted 03 April 2012 - 02:20 AM

For future reference, are you supposed to adjust the front and rear tension while the vehicle is on the ground or up in the air?

Which way do I turn the rear adjustment bolt to increase tension, Clockwise or Counter-Clockwise? Also, how can I be certain that I adjust both front struts evenly?


I'm gonna make a wild guess and say your rear adjustment bolt is rusted tight... but since you have the assembly out, you should try and clean up the threads... I believe tightening it (clockwise) raises the ride height.

for the fronts, clean the threads on the adjusters really good too. yes, adjust both bolts evenly, and the same from side to side. use lots of penetrating oil.... use a flashlight, and count the visible threads... to make sure you are even... or measure.

#537 TheLoyale

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Posted 03 April 2012 - 06:54 PM

Good info Mick, thank you! I haven't tried to turn the rear adjustment bolt yet, but I did clean up the thread with a wire wheels before I repainted it. It might still turn with a little effort (Same goes for the fronts)

So for giggles, I am looking at 15x6.6" 6-lug Trailer wheels. How hard is it to redrill steel wheels and make the correct lug seat? I take it, that I would drill the correct size hole first to make my Lug stud, and then use a larger bit to create the lug seat? I would then fill the unused holes with weld and grid smooth.

Anyone who has done this before, please chime in :)

Also, as long as I remove the warning sticker which I see on the wheel. A Tire shop won't be able to tell its not an Automotive wheel, right? Is there any real difference at all anyway?

Was looking at these two sets, Which one does everyone like better? Vote.
Posted Image

Posted Image

Edited by TheLoyale, 03 April 2012 - 06:58 PM.


#538 TheLoyale

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Posted 03 April 2012 - 07:01 PM

My personal vote is for the Round hole wheels. I kinda like them better.

Lets here what you, the people, have to say!

#539 shortysayhi

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Posted 03 April 2012 - 07:07 PM

Im liking the triangular one better, the round one does seem old school tho, we have the 8 lug version (triangular) on our truck and they look good

#540 Red92

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Posted 03 April 2012 - 09:07 PM

Also, as long as I remove the warning sticker which I see on the wheel. A Tire shop won't be able to tell its not an Automotive wheel, right? Is there any real difference at all anyway?


Some trailer wheels don't have the safety bead... A tire shop *might* mount a tire, but personally, I would much rather have wheels that have the safety beads. Posted Image

Did you think about drilling the hubs? It seems like a similar level of effort, especially since you have the car so far apart... and it gives you more wheel/tire flexibility in the future.

Or, if you really want to stick with the 4-lug, have you looked into having wheels custom made in the right pattern? Diamond and MRW (MRT) are two companies that do this - might be worth a quick phone call for a price quote.

Posted Image

#541 heartless

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Posted 04 April 2012 - 07:31 AM

my personal choice would be the triangular cut - had that style on the old Ford truck w/SS center caps and chrome acorn nuts. :)

That said, it is your car, get what you like. ;)

as for the trailer wheels - a "good" tire shop would know just by looking at those wheels what they were - even without the sticker on them.

poked around a little at the diamond site - prices arent all that bad considering - they seem pretty close to buying any standard aftermarket steel wheel. If I remember correctly it cost me in the neighborhood of $80 plus to buy one 16x8 wheel for the Ford - theirs is $96 for a racing wheel.

wouldnt cost you anything to give them a call (800 #) and ask.

#542 987687

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Posted 04 April 2012 - 08:38 AM

When I was working at a shop I had someone wanting to mount normal car tires on trailer rims. This was sort of a shop that you go to last resort because your car is screwed anyway... I wouldn't mount the tires, he said he'd been to 5 other shops that wouldn't mount them either.
Why? Because not only is it a bad idea, I didn't want to be responsible if something bad happened because I mounted the wrong kind of tires on the wrong rim.

#543 VaporTrail

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Posted 04 April 2012 - 09:47 AM

Good info Mick, thank you! I haven't tried to turn the rear adjustment bolt yet, but I did clean up the thread with a wire wheels before I repainted it. It might still turn with a little effort (Same goes for the fronts)

So for giggles, I am looking at 15x6.6" 6-lug Trailer wheels. How hard is it to redrill steel wheels and make the correct lug seat? I take it, that I would drill the correct size hole first to make my Lug stud, and then use a larger bit to create the lug seat? I would then fill the unused holes with weld and grid smooth.

Anyone who has done this before, please chime in :)

Also, as long as I remove the warning sticker which I see on the wheel. A Tire shop won't be able to tell its not an Automotive wheel, right? Is there any real difference at all anyway?

Was looking at these two sets, Which one does everyone like better? Vote.
Posted Image

Posted Image


25" diameter is about the the largest you can go with a bit of cutting and bashing. any larger and you'll need to lift or really cut and bash a lot more...

195/65R15 = 25
205/60R15 = 24.7

and what style are you looking to put on?

I still have my mis-matched set of 14's for sale...

as far as redrilling, technically you should use a chamfer bit to put the right angle on the seat. just depends on how proper you want to be...

#544 TheLoyale

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Posted 04 April 2012 - 05:24 PM

I was mainly looking for wheels that not to many people are running (Something other then Pugs or Jackmans) I also didn't want to spend a boat load to get a set of wheels, Probably $200ish would be good. I kinda like the thought of 15" wheels with either of the sizes you posted:

195/65R15 = 25
205/60R15 = 24.7

I should make a thread just about using Trailer wheels, I know a lot of people have done it and I'd like to hear their experiences with them. What is the deal with different beads? Why are trailer wheels different then Automotive wheels? Considering some double wheel trailers can haul 15,000lbs+ (Goose Necks for one)

JoAnne, What were the wheels you had on the Ford? Automotive class?

Edited by TheLoyale, 04 April 2012 - 05:27 PM.


#545 TheLoyale

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Posted 04 April 2012 - 05:39 PM

As for chamfer bits, can anyone give me a link to the correct bit? I did a search for bits, but all I can find are versions for wood working.

Also, what Degree would I need?

Just had a thought, could I just drill a straight hole with no bevel/seat and then run a Mag lug?

#546 TomRhere

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Posted 04 April 2012 - 06:35 PM

Mag lugs require a rim depth of atleast 1/2" as they have a shank area to center the rim to the lug, VS the chamfer of a standard lug. Clamp force is from the shoulder below the nut-hex

#547 Red92

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Posted 04 April 2012 - 07:17 PM

I should make a thread just about using Trailer wheels, I know a lot of people have done it and I'd like to hear their experiences with them. What is the deal with different beads? Why are trailer wheels different then Automotive wheels? Considering some double wheel trailers can haul 15,000lbs+ (Goose Necks for one)


The safety bead is a raised lip immediately inward from where your tire sits. What it does is keep the bead of the tire from moving inward when your tire deflates. This keeps the tire from flopping around, and keep the rubber aligned and rolling, helping you maintain control in a blowout situation. It also does a really good job protecting your wheels (keeping them from contacting the pavement). The safety beads also help keep the tires from being pushed sideways off the bead when you are cornering hard.


Safety beads are a significant safety feature, so you should really think twice about using wheels that don't have safety beads.


If pictures help, it is because of safety beads that most flat tires look like this:
Posted Image

instead of this:
Posted Image


I suspect the reason why they are optional on trailer wheels is because the trailers generally have stiffer, heavier duty tires, and are subjected to (relative) lower side loads than a car when it is cornering. They also have more controllable failures than a car, particularly if a loose tire is flopping around and binding up one of the front wheels of the car. It also could be that the trailer wheels/tires were made for running inner tubes, whereas most passenger car wheels/tires are not.


Personally, I would strongly advise you NOT to run a wheel without a safety bead, especially since you don't have the wheels and have to buy something new anyway. For the few extra bucks that the safer wheels cost, it just isn't worth the risk. Posted Image

Edited by Red92, 04 April 2012 - 07:23 PM.


#548 TheLoyale

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Posted 04 April 2012 - 08:54 PM

Ah, gotcha on the bead. I also looked it up on Wiki, and have seen the differences. Personally, I've never had a flat tire, let alone a blow out, guess cause I buy good tires and always check them for anything.

But either way, I agree about the side load stresses being more on a Vehicle vs. a trailer. Good helpful information, thank you :)

Tom, understood on the Mag lugs now, I didn't think about have long the shank is on them. It was a 6 second thought while I was typing lol. ;)

#549 987687

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Posted 04 April 2012 - 09:20 PM

Not having a flat is lucky. I've had A LOT. And not because bad tires. Because nails and stuff in my tires. The last three flats I've had were on the highway in the dark and rain.

#550 TheLoyale

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Posted 04 April 2012 - 09:26 PM

Not having a flat is lucky. I've had A LOT. And not because bad tires. Because nails and stuff in my tires. The last three flats I've had were on the highway in the dark and rain.


Thats kinda funny, I've gotten 2 big lag screws in the old BFG tires on my Loyale once. And then I got a Machine screw in the old tires on Trashwagon10 (never had a flat)

I also had a new leaking Valve stem (there was a metal burr in the hole and it cut the soft neck of the stem) took me a little while to find the slight hissing which I kept heaing haha.




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