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1696 replies to this topic

#1101 VaporTrail

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Posted 17 July 2012 - 12:48 AM

just use the original fan circuit to trip a relay to run the new ones...

#1102 TheLoyale

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Posted 17 July 2012 - 01:09 AM

xbeerd! I call upon your help with wiring in a relay for the cooling fans. Relays confuse the hell outta me. Maybe you can help me turn the Marker lights into blinkers as well! Hook a brotha up :clap:

Speaking of which, I gotta get some more money to Shawn soon for all the wonderful help the USMB has provided!

#1103 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 17 July 2012 - 09:40 AM

just use the original fan circuit to trip a relay to run the new ones...


Yes, as Explained ~► Here.

Kind Regards.


#1104 987687

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Posted 17 July 2012 - 10:08 AM

I wouldn't run the fans at all off the stock wiring. I'd use the stock fan wiring to trigger a relay, and run the fans through the relay directly off a fused circuit from the battery. The old wiring might be getting tired and giving a voltage drop at the fan, especially running bigger/more fans than stock.

edit: posted before I realized there was a next page, McBrat beat me to it, but we had the same idea. hah, so do that.

#1105 TheLoyale

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Posted 17 July 2012 - 12:39 PM

JesZek, thanks for the write-up!
http://www.ultimates...578&postcount=3

#1106 TheLoyale

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Posted 17 July 2012 - 08:10 PM

So basically, just wire up the cooling fan(s) the same way I wired up the Hella Supertones with the Relay. Alright, I think I got it now.

#1107 TheLoyale

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Posted 17 July 2012 - 08:16 PM

I am going to be buying Mandrel bent 90s and a 45 in 1-7/8" from JC Whitney friday, I will then buy a length of 1-7/8" tubing from Fleet-Farm for $10, and the true UEL header build will begin!

Need to find a place where I can get the proper header flanges that are nice and thick....

#1108 1982gl4

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Posted 17 July 2012 - 08:28 PM

I am going to be buying Mandrel bent 90s and a 45 in 1-7/8" from JC Whitney friday, I will then buy a length of 1-7/8" tubing from Fleet-Farm for $10, and the true UEL header build will begin!

Need to find a place where I can get the proper header flanges that are nice and thick....


I can't wait to hear this. We get all of our flanges at work from the flangeman, they seem to be pretty good quality, but I think you have to be a dealer to get them. If you know what you are looking for I might be able to hook you up with some. It would just take some time as they have to come in from Canada to VT, and then go to you....

#1109 TheLoyale

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Posted 17 July 2012 - 08:34 PM

Indeed, I am dying to hear it as well. It should be a lot deeper and lumpier than with the stock header (Which is what I'm going for)

As for the flanges, I'm looking for 2 flanges which will mimic the original flanges on the header. If anything, I guess I will cut one off and take it into a NAPA or such with me.

Anyone know if Single-Port EJ flanges are the same as EA flanges?

#1110 1982gl4

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Posted 17 July 2012 - 08:39 PM

Indeed, I am dying to hear it as well. It should be a lot deeper and lumpier than with the stock header (Which is what I'm going for)

As for the flanges, I'm looking for 2 flanges which will mimic the original flanges on the header. If anything, I guess I will cut one off and take it into a NAPA or such with me.

Anyone know if Single-Port EJ flanges are the same as EA flanges?


Ea's have less distance between the bolt holes IIRC.

#1111 tractor pole

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Posted 17 July 2012 - 08:42 PM

Ea's have less distance between the bolt holes IIRC.


I am 99% certain that this is the case, I will check when I get home tonight.

#1112 TheLoyale

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Posted 17 July 2012 - 08:45 PM

That is what I was figuring, the EA flanges look more "stout", if I may be so bold.

I AM going to remove that spacer block that comes on the EA81s, since it will not be needed with the new header.

#1113 VaporTrail

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Posted 18 July 2012 - 06:04 AM

That is what I was figuring, the EA flanges look more "stout", if I may be so bold.

I AM going to remove that spacer block that comes on the EA81s, since it will not be needed with the new header.


if you have the spacers on both sides, I'd leave them... I'd say the bolts are rusted really good onto the spacer... and will be incredibly hard to remove... I tried with a good impact to remove the ones from the engine I put in Ben's car, and the spacers just laughed at me... they are usefull though. if you ever strip out the aluminum threads, you can tap the holes and use to attach your exhaust :)

#1114 TheLoyale

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Posted 18 July 2012 - 06:14 PM

Mick, we'll see how it goes, I don't think the studs are going to come out of the spacers to remove the header.

So, I pulled off the rear bumper today to assess the rear rust. O.M.G... Does it ever end..? I'm really dreading this now! I will get some pictures later.

#1115 TheLoyale

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Posted 18 July 2012 - 06:36 PM

I am also planning on removing the side moldings, and filling it the tab holes.

Yay/Nay?

#1116 1982gl4

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Posted 18 July 2012 - 08:35 PM

Mick, we'll see how it goes, I don't think the studs are going to come out of the spacers to remove the header.

So, I pulled off the rear bumper today to assess the rear rust. O.M.G... Does it ever end..? I'm really dreading this now! I will get some pictures later.


This was the area of the most rust on my 82 (my 82 is missing bellow the rear bumper :D) and my 84 had a lot there as well. it is pretty easy to recreate that area if it is too far gone to fix. I can take some pics for you if you don't have enough to go by as the fwd is looking pretty good now!

I am also planning on removing the side moldings, and filling it the tab holes.

Yay/Nay?


I did this to my old Brat, and man was it a PITA. It looked decent, but I personally like the look of them with the stock moldings, and its much easier...

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#1117 TheLoyale

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Posted 18 July 2012 - 08:50 PM

Pics are always welcome.

I was figuring that since I have to remove the moldings anyway when I do paint it, I might as well just leave them off and fill in the holes (Weld shut)

You seriously wouldn't notice them missing with the Ski graphics anyway, plug I would need to find another right rear molding, as someone screwed it on when the clips broke. (Thats why they make Epoxy, people!!) :banghead:

To be honest, I actually thought I would have this car driving by June. I didn't expect this long of a turn around.

#1118 Subruise

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Posted 19 July 2012 - 01:20 AM

Pics are always welcome.

I was figuring that since I have to remove the moldings anyway when I do paint it, I might as well just leave them off and fill in the holes (Weld shut)

You seriously wouldn't notice them missing with the Ski graphics anyway, plug I would need to find another right rear molding, as someone screwed it on when the clips broke. (Thats why they make Epoxy, people!!) :banghead:

To be honest, I actually thought I would have this car driving by June. I didn't expect this long of a turn around.


..............my bad lol. the mouldings serve a purpose y'kno. you like door dings? post scuffs (car ports)? if you do delete them i would (quite humbly of course) recommend that you replace them with another moulding. i dont think width is as necassary as height for protection. youve put a whole bunch of hours on that rig, it would be a pity to ding it up. :popcorn:

#1119 turbosubarubrat

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Posted 19 July 2012 - 02:12 AM

You seriously wouldn't notice them missing with the Ski graphics anyway, plug I would need to find another right rear molding, as someone screwed it on when the clips broke. (Thats why they make Epoxy, people!!) :banghead:


or duct tape if u run out of epoxy:grin:

#1120 TheLoyale

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Posted 19 July 2012 - 11:53 AM

I don't really have an issue with acquiring door dings, The moldings on the Loyale are mint, so I know no one has hit them since I've owned the car. I'm selective where I park (most of the time)

Moldings are kinda useless for the most part, if I were to part the Landcruiser next to the GL and open the door, The lower edge of the door is above the molding on the GL, so the doors would make contact (Most SUVs and Trucks would do the same)

#1121 Subruise

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Posted 19 July 2012 - 12:02 PM

word, i hear ya there. that said i dont know how many times i (or wifey) have opened the door into poles/ gas pumps etc. perhaps i should be more careful

#1122 turbosubarubrat

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Posted 19 July 2012 - 12:07 PM

I don't really have an issue with acquiring door dings, The moldings on the Loyale are mint, so I know no one has hit them since I've owned the car. I'm selective where I park (most of the time)

Moldings are kinda useless for the most part, if I were to part the Landcruiser next to the GL and open the door, The lower edge of the door is above the molding on the GL, so the doors would make contact (Most SUVs and Trucks would do the same)


either lift it or put a set of 14in peugeot rims on it:headbang:

#1123 TheLoyale

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Posted 19 July 2012 - 12:16 PM

I'm going with 16" wheels.

#1124 TheLoyale

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Posted 19 July 2012 - 01:25 PM

I love rust, whether its rotten, filthy or grungy. Yes I LOVE, I LOVE, YES I LOVE RUST!

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#1125 TheLoyale

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Posted 19 July 2012 - 01:43 PM

Has anyone tried to use wheel arches for an EA82 on the EA81? Was thinking of buying the ones offered by MillSupply if they are workable.

Unless someone wants to cut out some parts for me from an EA81! :cool:




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