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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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My '83 GL: Safariwagon-III


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1696 replies to this topic

#1451 TheLoyale

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Posted 24 September 2012 - 02:45 PM

I got the blocks off. I did break one bolt. Its flush with the head (Boo) But I can use the other two holes for the flange. Wish I didn't break that one bolt, last one too.

Now I will definitely need an EA82 header for now.

#1452 VaporTrail

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Posted 24 September 2012 - 02:48 PM

I got the blocks off. I did break one bolt. Its flush with the head (Boo) But I can use the other two holes for the flange. Wish I didn't break that one bolt, last one too.

Now I will definitely need an EA82 header for now.


broken flush isn't an issue as long as it's truly flush :)

the other two holes are the ones you would use anyway :)

#1453 TheLoyale

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Posted 24 September 2012 - 02:53 PM

You know, you're right. I wasn't thinking about it, but yes they are. Yeah, it is flush.

I was thinking about getting a transfer punch, smack it dab in the center, and keep stepping up drill bits until the bolt is very thin/hollow, then it might just break on or the hole. Maybe I shouldn't bother? Leave well enough alone. :-p

#1454 VaporTrail

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Posted 24 September 2012 - 02:55 PM

You know, you're right. I wasn't thinking about it, but yes they are. Yeah, it is flush.

I was thinking about getting a transfer punch, smack it dab in the center, and keep stepping up drill bits until the bolt is very thin/hollow, then it might just break on or the hole. Maybe I shouldn't bother? Leave well enough alone. :-p


yeah. just hit it with a dremel if there's anything not flush and call it good... the flange area of the head can only take so much beating before it will crack the aluminum :)

#1455 bratman18

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Posted 24 September 2012 - 04:04 PM

I have to get the y pipe to the shipping place to get a quote for you! What's your zip again?

#1456 TheLoyale

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Posted 24 September 2012 - 04:10 PM

53186.

:popcorn:

#1457 987687

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Posted 24 September 2012 - 08:01 PM

That's quite the shiny brand new looking y-pipe jason has...
Too bad it has the long section sticking off it, unlike the EJ ones which are nice and compact. It's gonna be a pretty big box.

#1458 Idasho

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Posted 24 September 2012 - 08:27 PM

Thanks for the info on those blocks. Seems like Ill have to swap them over when I do my engine swap. Motor Ive got ready to go in doesnt have them... :burnout:

#1459 TheLoyale

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Posted 25 September 2012 - 02:15 PM

Actually, I'm probably just going to buy the 1-7/8" 90s and 45s I need, and will start building my UEL header. Its gonna cost enough to ship the EA82 header anyway ($60ish) via USPS.

So, no worries Jason. :drunk:

#1460 bratman18

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Posted 25 September 2012 - 04:47 PM

Actually, I'm probably just going to buy the 1-7/8" 90s and 45s I need, and will start building my UEL header. Its gonna cost enough to ship the EA82 header anyway ($60ish) via USPS.

So, no worries Jason. :drunk:


Ok no problem!

#1461 TheLoyale

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Posted 25 September 2012 - 08:52 PM

So, I started grinding and painting the engine bay. I like how the semi-gloss engine enamel looks, I need to buy a can or two more to finish it. The Engine enamel is good stuff, has Ceramic in it, so it lays down very thick, smooth and dries quick!

Quick question, I removed the cable from the clutch fork to the Hill Holder valve body. Is this gonna be an issue? I do not use the holder, don't even really understand how to use it. I kinda wanted to remove the whole unit and reroute the brake lines, but that sounds like a PITA. Am I gonna have any repercussions from not using the cable?

If so, I can put it back on.

#1462 Crazyeights

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Posted 25 September 2012 - 08:55 PM

It acts as a clutch return spring as I recall. You may want to rig a return spring of your own at the clutch fork if you pull the cable. Other than that you shouldn't notice anything.

#1463 TheLoyale

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Posted 25 September 2012 - 08:58 PM

Ah ok. Yeah I have noticed some return springs on others, and wondered why. Good call!

#1464 TheLoyale

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Posted 26 September 2012 - 12:13 PM

Ordered a Fel-Pro EA82 oil pan gasket. O'reillys didn't have a listing for the EA81 gasket, but both oil pans are the same throughout Engine models.

#1465 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 26 September 2012 - 12:33 PM

The Oil Pan is the Same between EA81 and EA82? ... That's New info for me, I have never noticed that.

Thank you for Sharing.


... I like how the semi-gloss engine enamel looks...


Photos Please! ... :) ...

#1466 Subruise

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Posted 26 September 2012 - 05:11 PM

i got a set of ea81 headgaskets somewhat by mistake, ill put em in your box. that said i pray you dont have to use em. must suck to be all rusty, we just dismantled a 89 glw in under 8 hrs, mostly with my craftsman 19.2v cordless impact. car was straight too, you should be pissed:brow:

#1467 TheLoyale

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Posted 26 September 2012 - 06:11 PM

The motor comes apart just fine, like everything on this car despite the rust. Outstanding, really.

You got my goodies? :cool:

#1468 TheLoyale

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Posted 28 September 2012 - 10:52 AM

I was incorrect about the EA81 and EA82 Oil pans being the same. From under the car, they look identical, but the EA81 pan is larger in diameter. So the Fel-Pro gasket I bought is too small a square. At least I'll have one for the EA82 if I ever pull the motor :)

So, I will order an EA81 Fel-Pro gasket else were since O'Reillys did not list one. Parts Hut or NAPA should have it.

I will take a picture of the difference later in the day.

#1469 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 28 September 2012 - 12:29 PM

I was incorrect about the EA81 and EA82 Oil pans being the same. ...


Thank you for clarifying...

Kind Regards.


#1470 Idasho

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Posted 28 September 2012 - 06:53 PM

I was incorrect about the EA81 and EA82 Oil pans being the same. From under the car, they look identical, but the EA81 pan is larger in diameter. So the Fel-Pro gasket I bought is too small a square. At least I'll have one for the EA82 if I ever pull the motor :)

So, I will order an EA81 Fel-Pro gasket else were since O'Reillys did not list one. Parts Hut or NAPA should have it.

I will take a picture of the difference later in the day.


Dont bother with an oil pan gasket. Youll never get it to seal properly.

Red Fuji bond or Toyota oil-pan gasket maker.

#1471 TheLoyale

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Posted 28 September 2012 - 08:32 PM

Dont bother with an oil pan gasket. Youll never get it to seal properly.

Red Fuji bond or Toyota oil-pan gasket maker.


I'm using the gasket to take up the gap and give the pan something to press against. I'm gonna seal both sides of the gasket with RTV Black. Kinda like what I do with Oil pumps and Water pumps. Double the protection!! (Sadly not so many teens follow this rule) ;)

#1472 987687

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Posted 28 September 2012 - 09:01 PM

I'm using the gasket to take up the gap and give the pan something to press against. I'm gonna seal both sides of the gasket with RTV Black. Kinda like what I do with Oil pumps and Water pumps. Double the protection!! (Sadly not so many teens follow this rule) ;)


Use up what gap?
All the sealant won't help when the gasket rots out and starts leaking. It'll just be more mess to clean up when you reseal it next year.

#1473 TheLoyale

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Posted 28 September 2012 - 09:10 PM

Use up what gap?
All the sealant won't help when the gasket rots out and starts leaking. It'll just be more mess to clean up when you reseal it next year.


I'll remember this post a year from now, when my pan is still dry and clean. :-p

#1474 Idasho

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Posted 28 September 2012 - 09:11 PM

Ill be waiting.

Seriously, dont use a gasket. Even the dealer lead mechanic here in town recommends not using a gasket.

#1475 TheLoyale

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Posted 28 September 2012 - 10:12 PM

If your Subaru isn't leaking oil, its probably out.




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