TheLoyale Posted March 4, 2012 Author Share Posted March 4, 2012 I would think your break pads are worn un evenly from left side vs right side... maybe? I wouldn't doubt it, I had little peddle while driving this thing home, So I'm sure the pads need to be serviced (Gonna use some Ceramic pads as always) Gonna need to brake lines, and I'm sure they'll break off in the wheel cylinders, so I'll need two new of those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 you probably got a stuck caliper. Either piston froze up or slider stuck. Rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 4, 2012 Author Share Posted March 4, 2012 you probably got a stuck caliper. Either piston froze up or slider stuck. Rust. Again, I wouldn't doubt it Haha! Maybe I should get EA82 rear Disc brakes! Are EA82 Front brakes larger? If so, would they swap onto this? Rotors look the same (Bolt wise) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1982gl4 Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 Spot welds are key so I've learned. Yes they are. You don't want to get the metal too hot warping isn't so much an issue on the floor as on body panels because you wont see it, or have to fill it after. But the hotter it get's the easier it burns through, and you want to avoid making more holes. But it does look very fixable. The rust that scares me the most is on the bottom of the doors. I sandblasted mine. I think that was the best way of getting it out of there we will see how it holds up over time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortysayhi Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 Again, I wouldn't doubt it Haha! Maybe I should get EA82 rear Disc brakes! Are EA82 Front brakes larger? If so, would they swap onto this? Rotors look the same (Bolt wise) I forget why, but i tried to put the bent 8 spoke (ones you have on your car) they wouldn't work on the front of my gl10. pretty sure the wheel wouldn't clear the calipers...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 4, 2012 Author Share Posted March 4, 2012 Yeah the rust on the door is always an issue, thankfully, this is only surface rust (For now) and I can probably eradicate that pretty easy, its not soft and rotted, I will have to wire wheel the door or something, possible sand blast if I can find a place (I think Jboy knows a dude with a sand blaster) I will also have to remove the door panel and get inside, check things out, seal it up ect. I need to remove all the Door panels anyway and lube the window tracks (Slow motors, might need to grease the motors too) As for the Wagon wheels not fitting on a Loyale, they "Should" clear the brakes on any EA82, as these wheels were also used on the EA82 GLs. a 13" rim, is a 13" rim, or so I thought? Maybe I'll have to check this out on my Loyale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1982gl4 Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 Ea81 wagon wheels do not fit on an ea82. The ea82's have a different style wagon wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 4, 2012 Author Share Posted March 4, 2012 Huh, indeed they are, did not know that (Even after I live on the 4x140 wheels page) lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 4, 2012 Author Share Posted March 4, 2012 Woah yeah, I cleaned all the carpeting and Seats with Commercial brand Pre-spotter/Cleaner. The pile is really plush for 30 y.o carpet, deep rich color. Awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 (edited) For pulling the brake and fuel lines for replacement, it's not to bad of a job, but it does help if the dash is out. Heater blower casing does need to come out though. There's couplers on both ends of the brake lines. On the rear, just after they exit from the inside of the body. On the firewall for the front ends of the rear lines. PS one is roughly above where the A/C lines enter. DS one is just to the right of the M/C as you look at it I use the pre-made lengths of line, various lengths and new couplers. You won't be able to match length exactly, but you can get close with not to much 'extra line'. If you don't bend the lines up to bad during removal, you can use them for a template for bending the new ones. I'm not a fan of having splices in the fuel lines running thru the vehicle, so I buy a coil of needed line size to make the full run. In the pic of the lines, 3 are for fuel. Supply, return, vent. The line that takes off by itself is DS rear brake. Allways use a Double-Flare when doing brake lines. Single-Flare doesn't hold up to repeated hard brake applications. It can work it's way out of the fitting. I believe I still have the part numbers here for the flex lines, both front and rear. Will post back with them if I find them. Edited March 4, 2012 by TomRhere corrected location of brake line coupler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 4, 2012 Author Share Posted March 4, 2012 Tom, sounds good. Thank you for the breakdown of the lines. I have figured out why I kept getting the wrong rotor, The rotor I kept getting is for the Nippon Disty, while mine is Hitachi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 Tom, sounds good. Thank you for the breakdown of the lines. I have figured out why I kept getting the wrong rotor, The rotor I kept getting is for the Nippon Disty, while mine is Hitachi. All I can say is be prepared for wrong parts ALL the time on this. So far, how many wrong parts have you got: keep a list, it will be every other part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 4, 2012 Author Share Posted March 4, 2012 All I can say is be prepared for wrong parts ALL the time on this.So far, how many wrong parts have you got: keep a list, it will be every other part. Haha! I will do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 4, 2012 Author Share Posted March 4, 2012 Wes; the guy who I am getting the rockers from, cut them out, and will get me a Shipping quote from FedEx in a few days. He sent me some pictures are to what he cut out, I think this will work just perfect! A Big thanks to dude for cutting them out cleanly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1982gl4 Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 That's going to be sweet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 5, 2012 Author Share Posted March 5, 2012 (edited) Finished Cleaning my Interior tonight, and conditioned it with Mothers Protectant (Best interior protectant I've ever used) I still need to remove the upper half of the rear seat. I also have Mothers Back-to-Black to restore color to faded parts, bumper, moldings, interior bits if any. 1st row carpet 2nd row carpet Cargo carpet Edited March 5, 2012 by TheLoyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mechanical_misfit Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 Choice cuts Looks like he knew what he was doing. That interior is way clean. I wish mine would clean up that well. Mine is trashed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 Tom does such a friggin good job on cleaning interiors i think it could be his side business. Serously the man is maticulous when it comes to that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 I dunno, Ben - the cargo carpet looks like it could use a little more work. i see brownish spots... (just teasing Tom - lookin real good. the seats look fantastic!) + 10 on What TomR said about the metal lines. get a good flaring kit for making the double flares (about $30 for a good one), and a bending tool so you dont crimp the lines. make a few practice flares on an old piece of line just to get the hang of it before working on actual replacements. its not hard, just fiddly. make sure you have plenty of the appropriate size connectors as well, you can always return if you dont use them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 damn, nice deal on those rocker sections! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 5, 2012 Author Share Posted March 5, 2012 I agree on the cargo carpet, I'm gonna use a passport machine I have at work to redo it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1982gl4 Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 I agree on the cargo carpet, I'm gonna use a passport machine I have at work to redo it. Consider yourself lucky. Both of mine have been trashed beyond using (missing chunks). In my 82 I cut up a legacy rubber cargo mat to fit (works great if you want to protect it as well!) and the 84 is getting wood floors because of it My carpets looked in similar shape to the cargo mat, I ran them through the wash, and then dyed them and they came out awesome. Interior looks awesome. I love those seats. I wish the fwd had come with them, also super jealous of the high rise center console. Keep up the good work I like seeing progress on this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jboymechanic Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 Those rocker sections are going to be life savers, he did a great job giving you plenty to work with. Time to start practice welding on scrap before you weld on your car. As for the lines, next time I see you I'll lend you my flaring tool. Did all of the stainless lines in the '56 Imperial with it and not a single leak in that system. It's okay to splice into a good line so long as good flares made. If you're going to hold onto this car for a long time, you may consider using stainless or other nickel-copper alloy lines. Not that much more expensive that steel lines and you'll never have to worry about it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 5, 2012 Author Share Posted March 5, 2012 Jon, we have Flaring tools and Benders. I have everything I need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 5, 2012 Author Share Posted March 5, 2012 Thank to Tom for the PCV pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.