wilcox Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 wait my bad, i had the right idea but wrong words to say it. the vacum advance on the disty keeps the timing where you set it. so on start ups there is no vacume so the timing is retarted compared to when running and vacume is available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 OK, I'm a little confused. Which ditsys are we talking about? I thought the EA82s just had a 1 port VAC advance that advanced the timing during mid throttle and also to help with initial tip-in. At least that is what I have read and my own observations with the timing light and bliping the throttle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 Yeah, I thought we're talking about a Weber hooked up to a single port. I think the advance only pulls in one direction: advanced. Also, the thermo-vac switch does not cut off vacuum to egr and timing. It bleeds air in from the air cleaner when cold. This effectively disables those components as well injects extra air to the Carb mixture when the specific ports start to suck, I.e. when your open up the throttle while the choke is still closed. At least that's how subaru designed it. I'm sure other manufacturers have other systems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 ...on start ups there is no vacume so the timing is retarted compared to when running and vacume is available. Now I Understand your Point, thank you. ... I thought the EA82s just had a 1 port VAC advance ... My 1985 Carbed "BumbleBeast" (that came Running New, from California, USA to Honduras) Came Stock with a Twin Port Vacuum Advance, I Know that Californian Versions usually got more Smog Stuff, but All the Carbed EA82's I've seen came with that Twin port one. I Removed it from my BumbleBeast when I Did the Weber Swap, and placed there a Single port one. In the Followin' Picture you can see the Removed one (Twin Ports) Next to the Box of the New (Single port) one, you can see its part number on the Box: Taken from This ~► Thread. Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 Also, the system bleeds air in instead of cutting off air vacuum so that the single three port switch and actuate the two seperate systems with one vacuum bleed signal and still keep the egr and distributor systems independant of eachother. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 Ok, I see. Kanurys, when you plumbed your ditsy and EGR, you used both front ports on the Weber - the left to the ditsy and the right to the EGR, correct? Then you tee'd the line for the ditsy and sent that split to the thermo-vacuum switch. The same goes for the EGR. Then the third port on the switch you sent to the air cleaner, yes? If so, which ports on the thermo-vacuum switch went where? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilcox Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 ok before we continue; some one please correctly identify what the thermo witch does. cause there is no thermo switch on a conventional v8, and all motors naturally aspirated are the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 ...there is no thermo switch on a conventional v8, and all motors naturally aspirated are the same. No vacuum thermo switch in the Old '72 Datsun 1600 my Dad used to Own... Neither in my '69 Mercury Comet in-line 6 Cyl, or in any old carbureted engine I've seen... Except for my EA82 Subie, it used to have it, also I've seen it... (I'm not Sure about this) ... in a 1987 Honda Accord with Hiding Headlamps that I serviced long time ago... That 12 Valve engine was carburated and as Far as I Remember it had it too... and a "Spaghetti" of vacuum Hoses. ok before we continue; some one please correctly identify what the thermo witch does... Kanurys Already did: Yeah, I thought we're talking about a Weber hooked up to a single port. I think the advance only pulls in one direction: advanced. Also, the thermo-vac switch does not cut off vacuum to egr and timing. It bleeds air in from the air cleaner when cold. This effectively disables those components as well injects extra air to the Carb mixture when the specific ports start to suck, I.e. when your open up the throttle while the choke is still closed. At least that's how subaru designed it. I'm sure other manufacturers have other systems. Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 Mo' info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vacuum_switch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilcox Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 ok so i just officially asked my shop teacher. the vacum advance on the distributor advances the timing minutely when at idle and light throttle, then when you step on it and vacum goes away, the mechanical advance in your distributor continues to advance timing. so moosen reset your timing with the vacum line disconected from the distributor, then hook the vacum line back up and see how she runs. thats what i did and im right at 11 degrees before TDC. make sure the thermo switch is hooked up right, and all is good. dont cutt corners! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilcox Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 also we should figure out what the vacum switch controlls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DT250a Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 . Anything new on this project? . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 This is kind of a redundant post. There is a great diagram and writeup on this switch in the factory service manual. It's really just a component that disables the egr vac line and distributor vac line until the vehicle is warm. If you read back through the thread, you'd see that it does this by bleeding air into the lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Cor6.9-10 Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 Don't leave me hanging, Moosen. I may not be the only one wondering how much your power was enhanced and your fuel efficiency suffered (if any). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ystrdyisgone Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 I purchased this car from moosen a couple weeks ago. Wish I had read this thread first.. She's struggling. I don't think he ever hooked up the egr. This thing burns through oil like no other. Prob a quart a week, maybe more. Significant leaking from the driver head gasket, and valve cover. The car doesn't like to stay running after a cold start. May just be a matter of idle speed.. Gas mpg is good, ~27 around town. Any savings in gas I spend on oil though.. Got an ea81 I'm dropping in as soon as the gaskets get here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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