Cinder55 Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 (edited) I've been having trouble with the relays in my Wife's 91 Subaru legacy. The blower relay failed and I replaced that last month. At the same time I did a fuel pump replacement and installed a new battery. Car has been working great till yesterday (Although it's worth noting the ABS relay stuck on the other day when she was driving home and I ended up just pulling the fuse for it to get the pump to turn off. I think the brutal cold we got up here in Alaska this winter has really played havoc on all of her subi's relays). Now it appears the Ignition Relay is bad. However I can't quite figure out how to get it removed from the relay holder. It appears square where as the Blower and Fuel pump relays are round and clip into to the holder. As you probably already know this is a nightmare of a location to work on. I'm trying to get everything done through the little stash box that I've removed; all by touch. Does anyone have a picture or suggestion as to how to disconnect the cable? The round ones are relatively easy you just pry up on the two side plastic flanges that hold the cable connector to the relay. How does the brown Ignition relay disconnect? Unfortunately I thought that it was the same relay part as the Fuel Pump and Blower; however with it appearing to be square I think I have the wrong part to begin with. I'm considering trying to remove that left side dash panel; it looks like i'd have to remove the hood release lever and cable and remove some bolts and screws and maybe it would separate from the main dash. Maybe this would give me more visibility and access? My big fat hands have a real tough time working in this area. I'm close to having it towed to a shop and just saying the hell with it. This isn't fun... Any suggestions or info would be super appreciated! Thanks for reading. -Christien Edited March 1, 2012 by Cinder55 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cinder55 Posted February 29, 2012 Author Share Posted February 29, 2012 It occurred to me that I probably should post the symptoms. Turn the ignition to start w/the clutch depressed and I hear a click from a relay under the hood but the starter makes no noise and doesn't engage. I'm pretty sure the clutch pedal sensor is fine as I can hear it click with the ignition in start as I depress it fully. Since I've had problems with the blower relay and abs relays I just assumed the Ignition relay is the culprit. That ignition relay does have to switch to get the starter solenoid to engage correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red92 Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Will it start with a jump? Those symptoms could equally be explained by a bad connection at the battery, a bad battery itself, or a bad charging system. An ignition switch could also be the culprit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 (edited) That ignition relay does have to switch to get the starter solenoid to engage correct? No, it doesn't. Only powers Ignition circuits. Starter trouble is likely something else. Test the Ig. Switch with a test light to see if it's sending power though in start. There is however an interlock relay, activated by the clutch switch. I believe mounted to the right of the column, under the dash. Blue connector with a Yellow, square relay. At the relay Green/Yellow = ground coming through with clutch switch depressed. Check it for ground with clutch depressed. Red/Yellow = power out to starter. The other 2 wires ussually are Blue/Red are the power coming from the starter switch. Check these for power when the ignition switch is pressed. If you don't get 12v here when the key is turned to start, the Ig. switch is bad. If all that checks out, it could be the relay is bad. Edited February 29, 2012 by Gloyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky11 Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Probably just worn starter solenoid contacts. Easy $10.00 fix. Just replaced mine for same symptoms. You can hear solenoid engaging but nothing else happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cinder55 Posted February 29, 2012 Author Share Posted February 29, 2012 Can I test my starter by running a temporary wire from the positive side of the battery to the spade connector on the solenoid as suggested in other posts i've read on the forums here? Will it start with a jump? Those symptoms could equally be explained by a bad connection at the battery, a bad battery itself, or a bad charging system. An ignition switch could also be the culprit. I've checked the battery; used a terminal cleaner on both the terminals and the wire clamps. Tossed a battery charger on it and it showed the new battery was fully charged. Test the Ig. Switch with a test light to see if it's sending power though in start. I don't have a test light but do have a digital multimeter i'll start on this after I've verified the starter isn't the issue. The starter might be original to the car and it's got well over 200k miles on it. Thanks for the info on the wire colors that should help a ton. Probably just worn starter solenoid contacts. Easy $10.00 fix. Just replaced mine for same symptoms. You can hear solenoid engaging but nothing else happens. I'm starting to think the starter is the issue as well. Lots of posts about it and seems to be a fairly common issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky11 Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Yeah, just jump from positive on battery to solenoid terminal to verify starter problem. On mine I opted to replace the contacts and plunged both. At 186,000 miles and lots of cycles it made sense to me. Now ready for the next 186,000. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky11 Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Contacts and plunger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red92 Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Yes, do try the direct test with the jumper wire. In my case a while back, that is how I determined that my ignition switch was bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cinder55 Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 Result of the jumper wire test was that the solenoid engages but starter never spins. So I'm guessing the starter is bad. Grabbed a new starter at NAPA today just incase I can't fix the old one. Supposed to be warmer tomorrow so I'll do the fix 2moro. Cheers and thanks for steering me in the right direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 . . . the solenoid engages but starter never spins . . . Probably the copper contacts in the solenoid housing. About $10 - $15 at a parts store or auto-electric shop. Easy fix. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cinder55 Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 Was lazy and just swapped out the old starter for a new one. You'd think it would be a simple 30 min job but it took a little over an hour. Thankfully it was 5 above out there today so it wasn't too bad. Again thanks a ton for pointing me in the right direction. This subi has been super reliable up till this winter. We purchased it 2 years ago for $1000 and hadn't had to put really any money into it till recently. Wife loves it almost as much as her old Saab. It's been a little tank and no matter what the weather up here throws at us it gets her to and from work just fine. Next project is rear struts; brake job; and abs relay; hopefully that stuff can wait till spring though. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.