Jump to content


Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo
- - - - -

No AWD steelership diagnosed as duty c and clutch pack, replaced but still NO AWD


  • Please log in to reply
110 replies to this topic

#51 mattocs

mattocs

    Subaru Legacy Lover

  • Members
  • 1,312 posts
  • Pittsburgh

Posted 31 March 2012 - 04:22 AM

Check out The Import Experts or Mizumo on eBay for belt, pump, and idler kits. I paid $147 shipped for a Mitsuboshi belt, Aisin pump, and idlers from Mizumo. Much cheaper than the dealer and they are quality parts. That was for a EJ22.

Edited by mattocs, 31 March 2012 - 04:25 AM.


#52 GeneralDisorder

GeneralDisorder

    Elite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 20,280 posts
  • Portland

Posted 31 March 2012 - 12:57 PM

that's a given! oem water pump and belt at least! can anyone recommend a good bearing kit 2.2 sohc, I can't afford the dealer bearings..... x.x I was looking at a goodyear kit with all green bearings! all you need with those is a clear timing cover :lol:


Your engine is non-interferance - no need for OEM belt and water pump. Call Mizumoauto (ebay ID) and get a kit with the Aisin water pump and the Mitsuboshi timing belt. Their tensioners have NTN bearings just like the factory one's. I have used several dozen of their kits without problems. Just remember to reuse the bolt and sleeve from your old tensioner idler as the replacements from Mizumo are too short.

GD

#53 mattocs

mattocs

    Subaru Legacy Lover

  • Members
  • 1,312 posts
  • Pittsburgh

Posted 31 March 2012 - 06:53 PM

Your engine is non-interferance - no need for OEM belt and water pump. Call Mizumoauto (ebay ID) and get a kit with the Aisin water pump and the Mitsuboshi timing belt. Their tensioners have NTN bearings just like the factory one's. I have used several dozen of their kits without problems. Just remember to reuse the bolt and sleeve from your old tensioner idler as the replacements from Mizumo are too short.

GD


I've seen you mention this in the past about the bolt and sleeve. When I put the tensioner idler on yesterday I compared the old and new. They were identical. I did reuse the old ones to be safe, but if there was a length difference in the bolt or sleeve, it was so close I did not see it

#54 bluedotsnow

bluedotsnow

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 266 posts
  • vallejo

Posted 01 April 2012 - 11:24 PM

thanks for all the info I will go that route when I need to do that job, thankfully it seems it was just the radiator! after much tinkering with compression tests, thermostat test, and a new radiator Its no longer overheating :) now back to the tail section to figure out WTF I don't have awd, more to come.

has anyone had a water pump that the bladed broke away from the shaft going to the timing belt? so the impeller was free spinning? this will only render overheating on the freeway after long periods? any chance a bad water pump could cause a radiator to blow out? the radiator was old maybe original so I'm not to worried about it but want to cover all my bases, my first car's cooling system ran flawlessly after its first overhaul so I'm only now growing accustomed to constantly checking it.

#55 bluedotsnow

bluedotsnow

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 266 posts
  • vallejo

Posted 17 April 2012 - 02:02 PM

after speaking with BAR they were sympathetic to my plight but technically could not find anything that albany subaru did wrong..... LEGALLY..... since I signed the order that did not describe all the problems I was having and all the information I provided to the service writer, they did the bare minimum they could do and pushed me out the door. after speaking with several other dealers they said they would have written up a work order for an inspection of the tail housing which runs around $500. I do remember albany saying something about an inspection but when I asked for more information on parts that could need to be replaced they changed the paperwork to reflect all the parts for a total of almost $1200 with $200 more labor than the inspection... I was asking for informational purposes only and still wanted the inspection quote. they could have hand written all the part numbers like they ended up doing on the inspection paperwork.... had I walked out of there with a quote for inspection only and knowledge of parts I might need to replace I likely would have gone back to them instead of winters auto.


winters auto did not inspect anything other than the new pressure plate being the same size as the old one. so they did it wrong but I can't hold them accountable for many reasons.

I am resolved to do this myself this time around so I'm not spending more on labor than parts.

I put in a 3.3mm pressure plate on advice or SUBARU OF AMERICA they said it was the original equipment and was the only part guarantied NOT to cause damage to my trans no matter what. nice albany subaru told me NOT TO DRIVE the vehicle because I could cause damage the the trans in its current state if the failed solenoid prevented atf from draining off causing rear wheel lock or torque bind. but hello I asked them (not on paper) to use there select monitor to verify 10% of the drive was actually making it to the rear vehicle speed sensor on the tail housing. they did not do this and erred on the side of caution telling me to not drive it even though they had NOT checked that the clutch was transferring ANY power to the rear. had I known that I would have taken an entirely different course of action.

will update once I get parts and post pics of rebuild I guess the upside is I can grind off any grooving of the hubs and not get charged rack time to do it. fairfield subaru was nice enough to provide part numbers for all the pressure plates something albany was NOT willing to do and could have done to make this process alot easier for me... but then again they are there to make money regardless of whether it helps the customer or not.

#56 nipper

nipper

    Semi Elite Master of the

  • Members
  • 17,563 posts
  • Long Island NY

Posted 17 April 2012 - 05:49 PM

:popcorn:

#57 bluedotsnow

bluedotsnow

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 266 posts
  • vallejo

Posted 17 April 2012 - 07:57 PM

lol nipper ;)

I focused on something I know how to do today brakes! after an oil change and tire rotation I decided to take a look at my calipers and rear drum for my e-brake. I think when I took it into the dealer the binding I was feeling was brake related. I backed off the parking brake and reset the caliper piston, it seemed to help now each tire spins the opposite.

now for some forum reading about caliper rebuilds....

#58 bluedotsnow

bluedotsnow

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 266 posts
  • vallejo

Posted 18 April 2012 - 02:49 PM

fairfield subaru parts department came through and gave me information that albany did not.

mtp clutch pressure plate part numbers for 96 lego trans code abaa


3.3mm 31593aa151
3.7mm 31593aa161
4.1mm 31593aa171
4.5mm 31593aa181

#59 Ricearu

Ricearu

    Official De-Ricer!

  • Members
  • 1,208 posts
  • DFW, TX

Posted 18 April 2012 - 04:28 PM

what head gaskets did you use when you did them?

#60 bluedotsnow

bluedotsnow

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 266 posts
  • vallejo

Posted 18 April 2012 - 10:12 PM

ishino gasket kit bought the whole engine kit used used half... on bad advise, should have gotten head only kit and put extra $40 twords a water pump while the timing belt was off. its only rattling x.x

#61 Ricearu

Ricearu

    Official De-Ricer!

  • Members
  • 1,208 posts
  • DFW, TX

Posted 19 April 2012 - 10:23 PM

I hate to be the one to tell you, but if it keeps overheating, you will need to do them again. this time with dealer, cometic, or six star gaskets. Cheap gasket kits are known for refailure. I remember one guy did them on his forester, and used a "nameless" kit and got 5k on it before one failed. Read up on head gasket repair on here. I don't even trust fel-pro. dealer ones are only $90 for the pair... :Flame:

#62 bluedotsnow

bluedotsnow

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 266 posts
  • vallejo

Posted 19 April 2012 - 11:35 PM

I ************ on x-brand parts..... the ishino kit was made in japan and ordered through world pack, I was told these were the best I could get through world pack. its overheated twice once due to a leaking bypass hose and once because of a blown radiator.... I was terrified I blew the head gaskets the second time but after a cold then hot compression test everything came out positive PSI that held pressure for at least 1 minute. after driving it around I don't feel any difference in the acceleration and am loosing no coolant. I did feel sorta guilty I had to use a spectra radiator because it was sunday.... ug pepboys.... oh well.

yes dealer for parts not for service I'm set if you want stealership service you better have 3 times your bluebook to just hand them in case they ask and don't ask questions because that will only complicate things, I guess you just have to pray..... I'd rather do it my damn self now..... praying is for the weak minded and oblivious.

so I went to the picknpull today to get some hold hard answers without opening my car up I was able to get everything apart relatively easily but am left with questions. in addition to asking on this thread I will be hitting my FSM and other threads to find my answer.


if a larger pressure plate is needed in the MTP clutch pack will there be play between the large snap ring and the clutches twords the back of the driven hub?

where do you take the measurement to determine the size of pressure plate needed?

if light grooving is present in the drive hub can it cause the clutches not to engage? I have only read that it can cause lock up because they get stuck

many thanks in advance I wish I had come here before even calling the stealership. generally they aren't bad but I got one who did not care at all about me or my car and would often say well its got 250k..... and nothing else ..... these people just want to sell cars and parts not help people i'm going to go talk to fairfield subaru about what they would have done and might still take albany to small claims court.... but first I'm going to fix my car, also so I can give an accurate review of winters auto which I will be posting on yelp....

#63 987687

987687

    Rally Suby!

  • Members
  • 3,562 posts
  • Northern Maine

Posted 20 April 2012 - 08:04 AM

I was terrified I blew the head gaskets the second time but after a cold then hot compression test everything came out positive PSI that held pressure for at least 1 minute.


Subaru head gaskets won't show up on a compression test, unless they're REALLY bad. I bought a car that had low compression for head gaskets, if you opened the rad cap with the motor running it was blowing exhaust as fast out of there as from the tailpipe

#64 Ricearu

Ricearu

    Official De-Ricer!

  • Members
  • 1,208 posts
  • DFW, TX

Posted 20 April 2012 - 10:44 AM

The ishino kit I saw online when i googled, had graphite head gaskets, not Multi layer steel.

Subaru head gaskets won't show up on a compression test, unless they're REALLY bad. I bought a car that had low compression for head gaskets, if you opened the rad cap with the motor running it was blowing exhaust as fast out of there as from the tailpipe


Some people just don't listen.

#65 bluedotsnow

bluedotsnow

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 266 posts
  • vallejo

Posted 20 April 2012 - 11:03 PM

well I don't see any bubbles in the coolant or any dreaded mixtures. I will check for positive exhaust pressure in the radiator tomorrow when I start it but think I'm out of the woods I took the car on a several hundred mile trip recently and it was fine.

I'm almost positive the packaging said multilayer gasket and there were several layers to be seen after the drunk mechanic smashed/ripped through some layers then dropped the gasket.... it still worked.... I'm set to do the job again if I need to I just hope I don't have to get the heads machined yet again.....

#66 987687

987687

    Rally Suby!

  • Members
  • 3,562 posts
  • Northern Maine

Posted 21 April 2012 - 04:09 AM

It's doubtful the heads needed to be machined the first time. You should be fine just cleaning them up.

#67 bluedotsnow

bluedotsnow

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 266 posts
  • vallejo

Posted 21 April 2012 - 11:23 AM

It's doubtful the heads needed to be machined the first time. You should be fine just cleaning them up.




maybe is NOT a word I like when I comes to motor vehicles! do you know how many thousandths of a inch the spec is for these heads? well I checked mine and they were out of spec! I also had the machine shop I took them to check them in front of me and they were not horrible but not on the border of good either. I will look up the spec again and post it.

forgot to mention the timing case was melted on one side before heads got done the first time so yes they needed it.

any info or direction towards info I'm looking for would be greatly appreciated.

#68 987687

987687

    Rally Suby!

  • Members
  • 3,562 posts
  • Northern Maine

Posted 21 April 2012 - 08:54 PM

maybe is NOT a word I like when I comes to motor vehicles! do you know how many thousandths of a inch the spec is for these heads? well I checked mine and they were out of spec! I also had the machine shop I took them to check them in front of me and they were not horrible but not on the border of good either. I will look up the spec again and post it.

forgot to mention the timing case was melted on one side before heads got done the first time so yes they needed it.

any info or direction towards info I'm looking for would be greatly appreciated.


I didn't say don't bring them to the machine shop to have them checked, I merely said it is doubtful they need to be planed.

#69 bluedotsnow

bluedotsnow

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 266 posts
  • vallejo

Posted 21 April 2012 - 10:19 PM

:drunk: I hope so x.x why go to the machine shop? feeler gauges aren't that expensive tricky part is using a sub par straight edge that wobbles around but there are ways.

does anyone know of a mechanics straight edge for under $50?

I bet something like this would be fine its for snowboards but still precise and under $50

http://www.tognar.co...e-bar-14-358mm/

#70 GeneralDisorder

GeneralDisorder

    Elite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 20,280 posts
  • Portland

Posted 22 April 2012 - 11:16 AM

No need to check them. Clean them up and check for flatness at the same time with 220 grit wet/dry and glass.

GD

#71 bluedotsnow

bluedotsnow

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 266 posts
  • vallejo

Posted 22 April 2012 - 06:43 PM

but first the transmission!

#72 bluedotsnow

bluedotsnow

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 266 posts
  • vallejo

Posted 23 April 2012 - 11:38 PM

BAM I think its the pressure plate, I hope! the drive hub is connected to the front end and nothing has play, turns properly! I think the gap is around the 1.6mm allowable limit I can get a little more than 1mm of feeler gauges in between the snap ring and the pressure plate but its at a slight angle as the feeler gauge housing is bulky.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

hope I can get a larger pressure disk tomorrow W007!:banana:

does anyone know what fitting size and where the pressure test port and gauge port are for checking fluid pressure to the clutch pack? I'm having trouble finding it in my FSM.
Thanks

#73 bluedotsnow

bluedotsnow

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 266 posts
  • vallejo

Posted 23 April 2012 - 11:58 PM

that grooving looks gnarly if I can find a picknpull with less grooving would that be better than smoothing out the grooves?:popcorn:

found test port on tail housing its at the far end of the fluid transfer pipe from the solenoid.

Edited by bluedotsnow, 24 April 2012 - 12:08 AM.


#74 ShawnW

ShawnW

    Subaru Master Technician

  • Administrator
  • 12,931 posts
  • Denver, Colorado

Posted 24 April 2012 - 12:03 AM

Looks like you have a proper diagnosis to me. Put that one in and road test, then pressure check if its still bad.

#75 bluedotsnow

bluedotsnow

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 266 posts
  • vallejo

Posted 24 April 2012 - 12:12 AM

I took feeler gauge apart and can only get 1mm of gap allowable is 1.6mm normal is 0.2mm to 0.6mm. I think I might be missing the ring seals.... are they embedded in the tail housing? part numbers would be much appreciated I'm looking now and will post if I find any also a point to a picture would be cool too.

found ring seals they look tired but ok line pressure line pressure line pressure.....

Edited by bluedotsnow, 26 April 2012 - 03:44 AM.





0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users