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Ej18 to Ej25 swap
#1
Posted 23 March 2012 - 09:47 AM
Also i plan on putting new headgaskets and timing belt setup before i put it in my car, what brand of head gasket should i get that will prevent the leakage the stock gaskets get over time?
Any other info you can think of would be greatly appreciated
#2
Posted 23 March 2012 - 04:35 PM
#3
Posted 24 March 2012 - 01:50 AM
#4
Posted 24 March 2012 - 01:37 PM
ONLY use subaru MLS gaskets. I've seen them for sale packaged by "Stone". Otherwise, I'd get them from the dealer.
#5
Posted 24 March 2012 - 03:47 PM
#6
Posted 25 March 2012 - 11:58 PM
There are two easier options (with a dark side of course, few things are free):
1. Swap in an EJ22, that would be a direct bolt in swap with no wiring/ECU - the EJ18 intake manifold would bolt right on top of any Phase I EJ22 block. the later 97 and 98 models had a few more horsepower. Shave the heads, get some delta cams and the EJ22 isn't all that far from an EJ25 power wise and they're - cheaper, more reliable, the valves are actually adjustable (LOL), easier to work on (plugs, valve covers). Ej25's are hard to find in good shape and expensive (for a lesser motor IMO, not a good value for me but to each his own).
2. Bolt your EJ18 heads (cheap route) onto an EJ25 block or get better EJ22 heads (that's what I would do), and bolt the EJ18 intake manifold onto the EJ22 heads which are bolted onto the EJ25 block, again avoiding the wiring/ECU work.
You *could* attempt to swap the EJ18 intake stuff onto the EJ25 intake manifold - remove the entire wiring harness, etc and bolt it all onto the EJ25. I've laid them side by side but haven't tried it yet. The throttle bodies are quite different in configuration - the EJ18's look sloppy, i don't like those manifolds they just look "busy".
But if you're going through all that effort maybe it's beneficial to have the better controller too, so the wiring might be nice.
I've swapped a few EJ22, EJ25 ECu's and ran an EJ18 on EJ22 and EJ25 ECU's - i've never noticed any difference. I'm currently running an EJ18 (well actually it was wrecked today while some friends were driving it) with EJ25 wiring/ECU and it runs perfectly fine, i would expect the other way around to not be that noticeable, if at all, if you were contemplating that.
#7
Posted 26 March 2012 - 07:47 AM
#8
Posted 26 March 2012 - 01:53 PM
you're asking a question i just answered in my last reply? EJ22 swap is 10x easier than the swap you were originally asking about - no wiring work at all.how hard is the ej22 swap?
can you do an engine swap? swapping in an EJ22 is exactly the same as just simply replacing your Ej18 with another EJ18 - you just pull the old out and install the new engine. the EJ18 intake bolts on top of the EJ22.
there are only two things to know:
1. get an EJ22 with EGR to simplify things since the EJ18 has EGR valve.
2. 90-95 EJ22's are dual port exhaust heads and will bolt right up to the EJ18 headers. But they are lower horsepower than later model EJ22's (95 manual trans EJ22's won't have EGR though).
96-98 EJ22's are single port exhausts but a few more horsepower - all you need to do is also grab the exhaust y-pipe. It bolts right up the car and has to be removed from the engine to do the swap anyway so it's hardly any extra work.
You could also bolt the EJ18 heads onto an EJ22 block and thereby retain the dual port exhaust. I'm not sure if the EJ22 heads flow better or have larger valves/better cam profiles though, i'd probably want the EJ22 heads.
personally i'd get a 97 or 98 EJ22 with EGR (most of them have it) and the exhaust manifold (ypipe) to go with it. It all bolts up and plugs and plays.
Bolt your EJ18 timing belt tensioner bracket and tensioner onto whatever engine you get if it has the newer style (one piece) tensioners. they are less reliable and show up around 97 models. the older style on your Ej18 is more reliable and you can simply swap brackets and tensioners between old and new style. Unless of course the new engine already has the old style tensioner on it, then just leave it, they are the same parts.
you can wikipedia things to see horsepower numbers - later 97 EJ22's have the higher output...but are also interference so you should be installing a complete timing belt kit (belt, pulleys, etc).
the problem with junkyard EJ25's is you have no idea how much they've been overheated. could be a great score....or there's a high probability too of lower end bearing failure.
#9
Posted 27 March 2012 - 09:03 AM
Edited by Diablo9420, 27 March 2012 - 09:47 AM.
#10
Posted 27 March 2012 - 09:48 AM
1. matching y-pipe for 96+ EJ22's (prior years have dual port exhaust that will bolt right up to the EJ18). the y-pipe is the exhaust manifold, it's all one part and easily swaps out with the other one, just remove and install - it'll make sense when you see it - really simple.
2. get one with EGR
done - plug and play!
if you install a new kit with pulleys and tensioner you'll be golden.
for EJ22's:
90-96 are non-interference (though i have heard of interferring 96's, it's rare)
97 and 98 are interference.
#11
Posted 27 March 2012 - 10:04 AM
#12
Posted 27 March 2012 - 02:41 PM
If its a rust bucket, dont turbo it, youre just asking for things to fall apart
#13
Posted 27 March 2012 - 02:49 PM
#14
Posted 07 May 2012 - 08:54 AM
#15
Posted 07 May 2012 - 08:55 PM
exactly, you got it. the whole point of the EJ22 swap is that you *don't* use the Ej22 manifold because the EJ18 intake bolts right to it. it avoids all the wiring, ECU swapping/issues.i have to use the 2.2 intake could i jus keep the 1.8 intake and run my wireharness and it all run properly? I may be a little ahead of myself but im just curious
so you bolt EJ18 or EJ22 heads to either an EJ18, EJ22, or EJ25 and you're good to go.
turbo requires swapping all the wiring, ECU, exhaust, and the engine crossmember as well. it's much more involved swap.
EJ22 and EJ25 blocks have knock sensors where EJ18's don't (or all the ones i've seen don't, i'm not sure if maybe some later models may have them). either way, just remove it, it's not used.
#16
Posted 07 May 2012 - 09:10 PM
#17
Posted 08 May 2012 - 09:01 AM
The frankenmotor needs knock control in a big way - being high compression it needs the help that much more.
GD
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