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Timing belt lifespan
Posted 25 March 2012 - 04:15 PM
Posted 25 March 2012 - 04:29 PM
Posted 25 March 2012 - 04:38 PM
Posted 25 March 2012 - 04:59 PM
Posted 25 March 2012 - 05:05 PM
Posted 25 March 2012 - 05:07 PM
In your case it's up to you on crank and cam seals, oil pump Oring and screw tightening.
I do accessory belts, coolant, plugs, fuel filter, oil & filter and then it's done for a while.
Posted 25 March 2012 - 05:14 PM
Posted 25 March 2012 - 05:18 PM
^^^ very sound advise. On a similar topic, is it possible to service the oil pump without removing the belt?
NO. It's behind the cogged end of the crank behind the crank pulley/harmonic balancer.
Infact to me it dictates a new crank seal too. ALong with the oil pump Oring and ultra grey (no gasket) and check those screws on the back of the pump!
Posted 25 March 2012 - 05:28 PM
Posted 25 March 2012 - 05:30 PM
Posted 25 March 2012 - 05:34 PM
You're asking those idlers to go an awful long time.
The labor is virutally the same.
But to each their own. I understand being on a budget too. But a car is kind of important. To get a person to work and food. So I have a tendency to cut back on car maintenance last.
Posted 25 March 2012 - 05:41 PM
Well I just dont have the time to replace it right now Bearings sound fine, motor is actually pretty whisper quiet. they are hairline cracks, but I agree never a good sign. Just wondering how bad it actually IS. maybe I will go take a quick cellphone pic.
Looks worse on pic than in person since its so close up
Posted 25 March 2012 - 05:44 PM
I am not sure it's worth spending $500.00 on a timing belt change on a car with high mileage and rust. Maybe I should wait until the belt has 105,000 miles.
Can get it done independently for about half that probably. very important on a post 97 model, not as much on the non interference pre 97 models.
Posted 25 March 2012 - 05:51 PM
Looks worse on pic than in person since its so close up
i had one last week that looked just like that...didn't break, but the teeth on the backside of the belt were coming off...crank was turning but the cams were not.
Posted 25 March 2012 - 06:07 PM
Posted 25 March 2012 - 06:25 PM
Crap so a cross country trip would be a very bad idea on that belt
personally a trip across town would be sketchy
Posted 25 March 2012 - 07:16 PM
Posted 25 March 2012 - 07:25 PM
At this point you'd be better off replacing the belt with a cheap one, and replacing any really bad idlers than letting it be. I probably wouldn't drive an interference engine with a belt that bad across town.
Posted 25 March 2012 - 07:46 PM
Posted 25 March 2012 - 09:36 PM
Your photo looks pretty bad to me. All those surface cracks can let contaminants into the fabric inside the belt. I would change it ASAP.
Posted 15 April 2012 - 09:41 AM
but i did a lot of research on belts a while back when
i got my kit for my 95.
the contitech kits are supposed to be the best and
have the high-saturated nitrile (HSN) belt instead of
high-temperature neoprene (HTN) belt, which is what
you'll normally find. also, i have used the cheaper ebay
kits but i think they are cheaper knock off pulleys and
water pump, where the ones that come with contitech
(continental of old) are at least oem or better. (supposedly,
but they do look very well built and the wp that came with mine
is an Aisin which I believe to be original manuf.
(strange thing is, i was told here on usmb a long time ago to
look for the german belts by Conti, but when I got my HSN belt
it says Made In Mexico, but I guess the tech is what's important.)
i actually was surprised how much tech went into the belts.
you might think that all belts, i mean across vehicles, would
pretty much be the same, but there's a whole science to
how they make the tooth shape, for example, and the same
manuf. may make many different tooth depths, width, angles
etc depending on vehicle co design. So, those cracks may mean
not only that the belt could break, but that it has more play
lengthwise and affect contact with the teeth, leading to more
breakage potential other than just snapping.
i forget where i found it, but i used to have a whole catalog
online where they had the actual shapes of the belt teeth, depth,
but if you pick around here you'll get an idea:
lots of info there.
ps--hey! i found it! if you go into the "media" page of this site:
they have a real big pdf that has the shapes etc.
not that anyone's that into belts...
Posted 15 April 2012 - 01:43 PM
Here in Colorado, with our extremes of hot and cold, dryness, etc., rubber takes a beating a lot faster than, say, Vancouver.
Posted 15 April 2012 - 02:31 PM
You can message me if you'd like, or here if you'd prefer.
(I have a 95 legacy 2.2)
Posted 11 May 2012 - 03:37 PM
do you have a pic of the tooth side? broken/cracked teeth=broken TB. Man, I want to drive to where you are and change that belt now
not sure what your year is but:
Actually the underside of the belt looks pretty good, no cracking that I can see. still going after another month and a half, but hoping to get around to this soon.
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