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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Fuel Cell???


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10 replies to this topic

#1 elementskaytr16

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Posted 29 March 2012 - 04:10 PM

Hey guys ive been lurking around for a while and havnt posted much mainly because i dont get to work on my subie much but the problem im looking at right now is i have a fuel cell and i want to put it in but im confused about one thing and maybe you guys can help me out. I have a 10 gallon fuel cell and it has the to and from lines a rollover vent on top and a regular vent line on top i got all the an fittings etc. that i need to plum it im just trying to figure out since i am sticking with the ea81 motor the carb dosnt require more then 4lbs fuel pressure and i got a new inline pump for it no problem there. the problem is with the one vent line do i need any sort of pressure valve on the end or anything cause the fuel cell will build up pressure and it has to vent somehow and i dont wanna just have a vent line run to the outside of the car with a filter cause then there will be like no pressure in the tank and will put a lot of strain on the fuel pump so if anyone has any ideas or has dealt with this before any input will help out a bunch thanks guys

~mike

#2 Red92

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Posted 29 March 2012 - 04:35 PM

Does your car still have any of the factory evaporative emissions components? If so, you could connect up the fuel cell so that it vents the same way that the factory tank vented.

You mention "pressure" several times, but don't forget that while the engine is running, the tank will be under a vacuum as the fuel is pulled out by the pump...

#3 elementskaytr16

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Posted 29 March 2012 - 06:59 PM

Yeah I haven't pull anything fuel related yet is the evap or vent canister the weird container inside the car attached to the rear fender well on the passenger side I'll get a pic of it if need be thanks for the reply -mike

#4 elementskaytr16

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Posted 01 April 2012 - 06:42 PM

Well I got another question if I pull my old Hitachi carb off and replace it with a Weber and yank out the fuel vapor separator and the evap canister can I cap off or remove the vacuum switches and what all will I have to have still for the car to run right

#5 Uberoo

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Posted 02 April 2012 - 11:49 PM

a weber only needs two vacuum lines: one from the carb to the vacuum advance on the disty,and the brake boost line.not to mention the tin can looking thing and its assorted lines.that's a vacuum reservoir for the HVAC stuff in the dash.everything else can get capped off as close to the manifold as possible then removed.

#6 elementskaytr16

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Posted 03 April 2012 - 11:24 AM

the tin can thing you are talking about is it this thing here cause i thought this was the evap canister
Posted Image

#7 Crazyeights

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Posted 08 April 2012 - 06:28 AM

Watching this one:popcorn:

#8 elementskaytr16

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Posted 13 April 2012 - 07:25 AM

ok well i almost got the fuel cell mounted but i took some time to take the old carb off and clean up some stuff and remove the egr system and the evap and a few other things well now the question is can you guys tell me what the circled parts are and do i need them theses are on a ea81 just in case you are wondering
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#9 elementskaytr16

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Posted 13 April 2012 - 07:40 AM

and here are some pics of the fuel cell as is i still have to cut a hole for the sump to sit down and make a bracket for it to stay in place i used all russell performance AN pieces and high pressure fuel line just waiting for the car to get here so i can start routing the fuel line and pump
Posted Image
Posted Image

Edited by elementskaytr16, 13 April 2012 - 07:43 AM.


#10 lostbrat

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Posted 14 April 2012 - 09:21 PM

I have installed 2 cells in 2 diffrent gen 2 brats. all i ever hooked up was a feed line to fuel pump and the return line from stock carb ...no problems for 2 years from either brat

#11 Red92

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Posted 15 April 2012 - 07:09 PM

It might depend on the type of fuel cell too.

Some of the flexible rubber "bladder" types are designed to run ventless, and used that way on purpose. They just collapse internally when the fuel is sucked out. It's safer that way, as there isn't a pocket of fuel/air mixture inside the tank to explode, and the shrunken tank internals can be moved around more by an impact/deformation or even puncture of the metal outer shell, allowing the tank bladder to remain sealed and without spraying out the gas under pressure when the outer tank is deformed/crushed. Posted Image




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