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Official 6-Lug Re-drill Thread: Now in the USRM!


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263 replies to this topic

#251 wilcox

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 12:18 AM

ok

#252 TheLoyale

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 12:20 AM

If you want, I can take some pics of how the pugs compare front to rear, clearance(s) If I remember right the front and rear are pretty much the same.

#253 wilcox

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 12:22 AM

If you want, I can take some pics of how the pugs compare front to rear, clearance(s) If I remember right the front and rear are pretty much the same.


that would be awesome, and also the backspacing on those to please! :)

#254 TheLoyale

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 12:29 AM

Did anyone actually read this thread? This guy bought 15x10 U.S wheels.
http://www.subarubrat.com/6lugconv.htm

#255 TheLoyale

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 12:31 AM

Another nice write up about Backspacing and offset.
http://www.customtac....php?article=40

#256 TheLoyale

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 12:33 AM

Wheel Backspacing and Offset


Before mounting a set of aftermarket wheels, there are some dynamics involved with fitment that are best to understand first.

1. Wheel Diameter. This is the diameter of the wheel. Stock wheels are commonly 15 or 16 inch diameter. This dimension is usually in 1 increments (i.e. 15, 16, 17) but some manufacturers offer 16.5, which is rare.

2. Wheel Width. This is the width of the wheel, measured inside the outer lip of the wheel. This dimension is usually in 1/2 increments (i.e. 7.5, 8)

3. Wheel Center. This is the center of the wheel in relation to the width.

4. Offset. The distance from the centerline of the wheel to the face of the mounting surface of the wheel that contacts the hub.

4.1 Zero Offset. Indicates the mounting surface is at the wheel center.

4.2. Negative Offset. Indicates the mounting surface is behind (or inboard) the centerline of the rim. This is often found on standard rear-wheel-drive vehicles and on so-called reversed rims. (Diagram below shows negative offset)

4.3 Positive Offset. Indicates the mounting surface is in front of (or outboard) the centerline of the rim. This is often found on front-wheel-drive vehicles. Stock Tacoma wheels have Positive offset.

5. Backspacing. The distance from the mounting surface to the inside lip of the wheel. This measurement is closely related to offset (without actually measuring, backspacing is about equal to [Wheel Width / 2] + [Offset] + [about 1/4] ).

6. Centerbore. The centerbore of a wheel is the size of the machined hole on the back of the wheel that centers the wheel properly on the hub of the car. This hole is machined to exactly match the hub so the wheels are precisely positioned, minimizing the chance of a vibration. This measurement may be critical to clear the hubs of a 4WD.

7. Bolt Circle. Also known as PCD (Pattern Circle Diameter). The bolt circle represents the diameter of an imaginary circle that goes through the center of the bolt holes. 4x2 Tacoma Bolt Circle: 5 lug on 4.5 PCD; 4x4/Prerunner Tacoma Bolt Circle: 6 lug on 5.5 PCD.


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#257 Moosen

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Posted 22 May 2012 - 12:02 AM

Okay okay getting on this bandwagon. Looking to do a 2" lift soon and redrilling 6 lug wheels to fit. Now the only thing I am confused about it the wheel width. What can I go to? 7inch or 8 inch?

For example what about these guys? http://portland.crai...3029585521.html

#258 wilcox

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Posted 22 May 2012 - 05:03 PM

Okay okay getting on this bandwagon. Looking to do a 2" lift soon and redrilling 6 lug wheels to fit. Now the only thing I am confused about it the wheel width. What can I go to? 7inch or 8 inch?

For example what about these guys? http://portland.crai...3029585521.html


na the back spacing is too crazy, they will work, but they will stick way out. also check the bolt pattern your looking for 6x5.5 other wise the wheel wont fit your 6 lug converted hubs

#259 O.C.D.

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Posted 25 June 2012 - 01:03 PM

So I did the conversion and other than being a danger to myself, it went well. Did this to a 1980 Brat. Be very careful getting the final hole size drilled out with a drill press. I snapped a few bits and threw a drum into the wall. Then the drum cracked the outer lip. Scared the you know what out of me.

Could not find the right bit anywhere in town so I used a 9/16". With the new studs I still had to hammer them in. Success in my eyes.
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Had to do some grinding of course.
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Just you you know my idea worked cause of the math. If you recall I made this drawing:
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This was to fit 15"x7" wheels with a 4.5" BS. I then mounted 205 50 R15's on these wheels.
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Here is the stock 13" with the 15"
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With these wheels and tires I cleared barely and I stick out about an inch all around. This is exactly as I wanted.
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I now have a crazy idea for the Subaru center caps. The center bore of the new wheels is way to big for the stock caps. My idea is this.

Get 4 pieces of 18-20 gauge sheet metal and weld a couple edges together. Then I will use this template printed to scale and drill out the holes in all four pieces. I will get the stock wheel center bore and drill that out as well. After cleaning up the sheet metal, making hub sized large circles and then painting them white, I will then fit this in between the new wheels and hubs.

Once completed I can then insert my stock center caps and voila. I will be rocking stock center caps on after market wheels.

What is bad about doing this? The lug nuts will still center the wheels and the sheet metal ring will float in between but will of course be sandwiched in there and not move. I guess it will be a very small spacer?

What do you all think about this idea?

Jon

#260 TheLoyale

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Posted 25 June 2012 - 01:59 PM

Jon, that turned out Great and looks awesome! Those tires look pretty grippy and a hard compound.

I like the idea of the center cap templet, and I think it would work just fine, I see no real issue with it.

#261 O.C.D.

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Posted 25 June 2012 - 04:30 PM

Cool, one person saw the post, lol.

I kidd I kidd.

I agree, I think the sheet metal template will work just fine. Guess I will just do it and see.

#262 suprunner

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Posted 02 July 2013 - 09:58 AM

Last link. ;)

Although mine are 14"

So they would be equiv and Id assume identical to these.

http://recstuff.com/...iler-Wheel.aspx


And currently, 14's actually provide better off-road tire selection for these older Subarus, assuming you do not want to hack a tone of sheet metal to make things fit.

 

Hi, did you use a wheel adapter with these? Or, did you re-drill these for 6-lug? If you didn't personally, is that what I would need to do?

 

Thanks,


Greg



#263 WoodsWagon

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Posted 02 July 2013 - 03:21 PM

I now have a crazy idea for the Subaru center caps. The center bore of the new wheels is way to big for the stock caps. My idea is this.

Jon

 

Or you could use the later steel wheel hubcaps from the EA82's. They clip onto the 4 stock lug nuts but would probably work going onto just two with the 6 lug.

gallery_4164_16_1360569728_3186.jpg



#264 coxy

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Posted 04 July 2013 - 03:38 PM

Wellers are an English Steel Wheel specialist,In Australia the same style was Initially sold as Sunraysia's ( A Desert area of Western Victoria the same state that hosts both the F1,Moto GP and Superbike Races,Such rims are still sold by Performance Wheels in 14X6' and of course the Minilite style Performance 15x6" Alloys popular with Retro Car owners both here and in the UK possibly available from memory through someone in Arizona.

 

http://www.performan...p=C&Cat=Classic






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