The engine (and 5MT which I plan to use in another car) and harness came from eBay, $1800 shipped. The engine was in pretty good shape, although there were a few issues:
Dented oil pan. Not a problem, I was able to look in the drain plug hole and the pickup had plenty of room.
Missing intake "resonator". I bought the Apexi metal intake tube meant for a EJ22T.
Broken header coolant tank. I bought a used metal one from eBay for a 2002 WRX. I needed to plug the lower hole and put a new pipe nipple on the other side, and make the necessary brackets to hold it.
Bad coil pack. It didn't look cracked, but caused a huge intermittent misfire. A new one for a SVX worked great.
Bad ECU coolant temp sensor. Cold start was terrible, replacing this fixed the cold start problem. I still have a very small problem starting when warm.
Bad uppipe. The uppipe flex joint was shot, maybe from sitting on the exhaust from the boat ride. A cheap-o eBay uppipe worked okay.
I chose the SJR adapter plate rather than swap the 4EAT bellhousing. This worked out fine and saved me some work. It was easy enough to redrill the flex plate, although there is a hardened steel backup plate that required grinding. The SJR plate is nice, my only complaint is that the locating holes for the dowels are not very precise.
Stripping the harness was pretty easy. I made a new pluggable connector with 15 pins to interface the new harness with the old one. I had to run a few additional wires for the 4EAT, but no big deal. The radiator fans were a bit tricky, I used a Corolla relay box and wired up two Spal 11" fans behind the radiator to run low & high speed. The A/C cut relay was previously wired before the ECU A/C input, and I needed to rewire it so it was after the ECU A/C input. The digidash tachometer needed a slight resistor mod to get it to work.
Coolant lines were not bad either. The hardest part was making hardlines that ran above the radiator for the bleed and the overflow to the header tank. The rad cap on the actual radiator has the lower seal removed. This allows air to bleed back into the header tank. The lower rad hose I used a couple large copper elbows to bend it around to match the stock 2-row radiator. For the top rad hose I used a chunk of the old hose as a reducer.
The ECU was (un)fortunately already chipped, running 18 PSI. Hmm looks like this engine has seen some abuse. Oh well, compression test is excellent and it runs good. Because the ECU was chipped, it had a daughterboard installed so I could use jellybean EPROMS. That's good, because both the chip and the stock ECU ROM were way too advanced for our (relatively) crappy 91 R+M/2 octane fuel. I was able to remap the ECU timing and I also added a few other things like CEL on knock, overtemp cutout, launch control, etc. These mods are courtesy of pmugabi, and they work fantastic. Thanks Paul! I didn't end up using Paul's maps, because apparently the fuel in Uganda is worse than ours. But I came up with something that works really well and I've got it at 16 PSI of boost. It seems pretty happy like this.
The power steering lines were unfortunatly cut, but I was able to splice my high pressure one on with a steel compression fitting. The return line was easy, just a hose clamp.
I already had 3" catback exhaust, and I run the USDM WRX dual cat downpipe. Trying to keep the polar bears alive, ya know. This bolted up pretty good, I had to tweak the midpipe a bit but it's all pretty clean.
The engine mount on the EJ is a different angle from EA. I ordered some aluminum wedges from Paul in OZ. No grinding needed on the crossmember. The pitch mount was bent, cut, and rewelded.
I spent a fair amount of time just on the intercooler. It's a 2002 WRX one. I didn't want to hack the body up too much so I had to get creative with the hoses. Some silicone elbows, and a new plate to mount on the BPV, and things shaped up pretty good.
The charcoal canister was easy, I just hooked up the small line to the hose on the butterfly, and the large line went to the tank. The other fittings on the canister were capped.
The throttle cable wasn't long enough, so I ordered one for a Loyale and it fit. It could be a bit longer though... I needed to space off the bracket.
My fuel pump was already upgraded, but I decided to play it safe and installed a Walbro GSL392. The input fitting was 12mm and the outlet was a 14mm banjo fitting, with an 8mm banjo barb on the end of it. This is because the pump needs a right angle right out of it.
I think that's about it. I hope this helps some else with their conversion questions. Any more questions feel free to ask.
I'll put the photos here:
Edited by presslab, 11 April 2012 - 10:29 PM.