Rooster2 Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 I am having a devil of a time replacing the ecu coolant temp sensor on my EJ 22. My problem is how to disconnect the electrical connector. The unit is buried so deep down on the side of the motor, that there is very little room to work or see how to disconnect the connector. Anyone know, is it a push down on a lever, or pull up on a tab to separate the connector? After spending an hour fooling with it, and practicing on other electrical connectors to see how they release, I am still stuck. Anyone know "the secret hand shake" to get the connector to separate? Thanks...........I am really frustrated at the moment!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 Yea, IIRC it's the kind you push the tab of the back and the locking piece comes up. You might have to get a screwdriver in there to pry the connector off the sensor. If you remove the IACV it adds quite a bit of clearance to get at it. That's a really crappy one to access with the intake manifold on Another trick is to spray PB blaster at it. Connectors can get gritted up and don't want to come loose sometimes. Sometimes you have to push the connector in first, then pust the tab down because the locking bit gets bound up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted April 15, 2012 Author Share Posted April 15, 2012 (edited) Yea, IIRC it's the kind you push the tab of the back and the locking piece comes up. You might have to get a screwdriver in there to pry the connector off the sensor. If you remove the IACV it adds quite a bit of clearance to get at it. That's a really crappy one to access with the intake manifold on Another trick is to spray PB blaster at it. Connectors can get gritted up and don't want to come loose sometimes. Sometimes you have to push the connector in first, then pust the tab down because the locking bit gets bound up. I will try all of the above. Thanks for the advise, I really appreciate it. I am thinking about using a very small screw driver blade, or very small knife blade to unlock the connector. Then, if no success, I will remove the IACV. What a PITA. Glad I bought a deep well 19 MM socket for sensor removal. I can see that it will be necessary to use that socket. Edited April 15, 2012 by Rooster2 added more info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 I usually end up using a pliers to push down on the locking release tabs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 I usually end up using a pliers to push down on the locking release tabs. Yea, pliers on the release tab, big flat blade screwdriver to push the connector off the sensor. Just be careful not to squash the connector with the pliers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted April 15, 2012 Author Share Posted April 15, 2012 Thanks guys............I appreciate the advise!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted April 16, 2012 Author Share Posted April 16, 2012 I still don't have the sensor removed. I considered removing the IACV to add to the work space area, but looking at the IACV, it has a paper gasket sealing it to the block. I am reluctant to remove for fear of ruining the paper gasket. Any thoughts?? I have a buddy coming over tonight to help me. I hope he is smarting then me, in figuring out how to release the connector. Thanks for all the replies..........Rooster2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted April 16, 2012 Share Posted April 16, 2012 Get a new gasket and clean the IACV while it's off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted April 16, 2012 Share Posted April 16, 2012 Get a new gasket and clean the IACV while it's off. ^ +1 ^ It's a great opportunity! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 Remove the PCV tube from the top of the block. IT might crack but I find that easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted April 17, 2012 Author Share Posted April 17, 2012 I got the temp sensor swapped out tonight. A friend came over, who is smarter then me. He got the connector to disconnect in about 30 seconds. It is all about where, and how to unlatch the connector. Yes, on reassembly, the big PVC hose that connects to the block was as hard as rock, and would not flex to attach to the tube on the block. A trip to AZ worked great. The counter man gave me a small replacement section of hose free gratis. That would never happen at a stealership. All is reassembled, 2.2 motor is running well. Thanks for all the advise. I really appreciated it!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted April 18, 2012 Author Share Posted April 18, 2012 Nope..........not fixed yet. The sensor I installed must be bad. Acts like it doesn't work at all. Car barely starts, no power till it warms up. Will install another sensor tomorrow. I hate doing the same job twice in two days! I bought a Borg Warner sensor from Advance Auto. Even new parts can be bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 Are you sure that's the problem? If it's obd2, plug in a scantool and see what the temp sensor is doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted April 18, 2012 Author Share Posted April 18, 2012 Are you sure that's the problem? If it's obd2, plug in a scantool and see what the temp sensor is doing. I did this. New sensor is tripping a code, saying it is defective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 Test the resistance on the sensor. 3000+ohms when cold 200-500 ohms warmed up to 190 anything over 5000 or under 200 indicates it's bad. I'm doubtful the new one is bad. I'm guessing it's a problem in the circuit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted April 18, 2012 Author Share Posted April 18, 2012 Test the resistance on the sensor. 3000+ohms when cold 200-500 ohms warmed up to 190 anything over 5000 or under 200 indicates it's bad. I'm doubtful the new one is bad. I'm guessing it's a problem in the circuit. Good thoughts.............Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 With obd2, the scantool should be able to tell what temp the computer is seeing from the sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 I agree with Gloyale. There is most likely a circuit problem rather than a bad new sensor issue. It would help to know what the code was. If it talks about a circuit issue then the wires to the ECU need to be checked along with the connection to the sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted April 19, 2012 Author Share Posted April 19, 2012 Well, I finally got around to swapping in another coolant temp sensor, and that fixed the problem. The sensor I installed last Monday was bad.....way bad. Yep, even a new sensor fresh out of it's box can be sold to you bad. No problem swapping out parts with Advance Auto at no cost. They treat me really well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 Good deal. Thanks for the update. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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