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61 replies to this topic

#51 Ady_E12

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Posted 15 July 2012 - 12:49 PM

I joined a German Libero forum and I asked around, it seems that this: http://www.kex.de/Bi...mhosesystem.jpg is the correct diagram for the 1992 E12 KJ8 vacuum lines.
Still waiting for an answer regarding the lights, please.
In the meantime, I took the 4WD vacuum switch off, gave that some TLC as well. Will put it back on the car these days.
Cheers!

#52 Sigkrist

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Posted 15 July 2012 - 02:04 PM

HI there
. On my Subie the H4 lamps are on the outside.. and old type on inside.
I am working on to put H4 on all 4 lights

Have a Nice day :)

#53 Ady_E12

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Posted 15 July 2012 - 02:31 PM

Thanks a lot! That's how I remembered mine and that's how I set them when they started to act up.
I'll do the best I can to fix it, but I'm also gonna have someone qualified take a look at it.

#54 Ady_E12

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Posted 17 October 2012 - 04:28 PM

I think I found the source of the lights problem. It may very well be the lights switch shorting out somewhere. Will take it apart, see if it's reparable or see if I can replace it.
I finally got the engine to run. It runs great, but it still needs some adjustment. Also, it needs a replacement intake manifold. Will try and sort that out as well.
I changed the gearbox fluid, but I didn't do the front diff.
Just to be sure, the dump plug is on the front side of the diff and the filler is on the driver side, towards the back? By the look of it, that's how they are positioned, but it doesn't hurt to ask.
Awaiting reply.
Will keep you guys posted. This project is not far from completion.
Have a good one!.

#55 Ady_E12

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Posted 02 January 2013 - 02:19 PM

Hello anyone!
It's been a really long time since I last posted a message m'here and a lot of things have happened. I did managed to get the van fixed and registered. I'm so happy, I still can't belive it.
This thing is soooo awesome! It's not 100% perfect, but it goes, it stops and it's heaps of fun.
I still have to mend some electrical things(headlamps suck, fog lamps light up, engine start button needs a relay, etc), the mpg is also not that good, even though I got the carb tuned by a specialist, but I got it to run. 4WD and everything.
I had all the vacuum system redone, using some diagrams that I found on the interweb, brand new vacuum hose all around, new coolant, filters, spark plugs, oil, I replaced the broken handbrake cables with brand new genuine parts, etc.
I need to change the oil(again), put something really good in it, like a MOTUL or something, I have to machine down the wear on the brake drums or replace them, paint them BLAAAACK for +25 Kw of pure JDM power.
Also, I'm quite curious about something: I always get traces of some sweet-tasting liquid(possibly anti-freeze) on the rear bumper. Perhaps it's time for a new radiator cap? I don't know.
Does any of you guys know what could be the matter? I shall make a video to explain it better.
Until then, happy New Year, good luck and best of wishes!

#56 pressingonward

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Posted 02 January 2013 - 02:59 PM

I enjoyed reading about your van. It has to be very difficult working on a rare vehicle without any factory data in the right language...

I know nothing about these vans, but I can confirm that your sweet tasting fluid is definitely coolant. I assume the engine is in the rear of the van? Check your hoses and radiator carefully for leaks. I've seen vehicles with pinhole leaks that spray a very fine stream of coolant out. Sometimes the stream is so small you can't really see it. This could be how the coolant is ending up on the bumper. It could also be the radiator cap like you suggested. Look for the leak or for a buildup of corrosion/crystalized coolant which would indicate a leak.

Your intermittent starter problem sounds like a bad starter to me. They short out in a certain spot and draw the battery down (makes all your dash lights dim) without cranking, then may start clicking as the solonoid loses voltage and clicks on and off. I usually replace the whole starter, but in your case that may not be possible. You'll have to pull it apart and see if you can clean and repair it. Sometimes the brushes get damaged or are so short they twist sidways and make contact where they shouldn't. Here is a youtube video showing the guts of a starter:



Your van probably has a gear reduction starter (large solenoid mounted on the side, smaller starter body), but the operation is similar. Starter gears and flywheels can have substantial tooth damage and still work ok. Some rounding of the forward edge is to be expected. Badly damaged teeth will cause it to make a horrible grinding shriek instead of turning over, but this can also happen when the starter is not operating properly and the gear does not extend fully. Since you are having issues with it drawing down your electricals, solenoid clicking, etc., I think this is the case for you.

Good luck!

#57 Ady_E12

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Posted 02 January 2013 - 03:11 PM

I did make a jumper wire that I use to hot wire my own car when I try to start it cold and it works. I just have to smack the starter a few times with a wooden hammer handle, put the key in the ignition, put it on the ON position, replace the start button with the jumper wire and it cranks right out. The button works also, but only after the car has been running(engine warm, battery charged, etc).
I think it's safe to say that the button is the problem. It works, but it does not allow enough current to run through it when it's cold(weaken battery, etc).

#58 pressingonward

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Posted 02 January 2013 - 04:49 PM

It does sound like the button is bad, but since you have to wack the starter with a hammer handle it sounds like your starter has issues too. It's very likely that the starter draws too much current, which burnt the contacts in the button causing it to go bad.

#59 Ady_E12

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Posted 02 January 2013 - 04:55 PM

Possible, but it only does that when it's really cold(i.e. winter time, sitting over night). I don't need to wack it when it's warm outside, I don't even need to hot wire it. It cranks right away with the start button and it starts right away. The wacking is just a bonus thing that I do to help it crank, it's an old mechanic's trick that know it's used to start cars that have been sitting for a while.
When it's warm, I don't even need to give it a bit of gas to fire up, I only do that when it's really cold or when I have ************ty gas in it(there are some gas stations that sell ************ty gas, I tend to avoid them, but sometimes I'm forced to get gas from them).

#60 Libero

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Posted 03 January 2013 - 08:04 AM

Great video :headbang:

#61 Sigkrist

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Posted 03 January 2013 - 01:07 PM

HI. Good to know its finally running and making you happy.
About the antifreeze, I had a simular problem on my E12 Columbus. when running cold no leak, but after while i notice antifreeze on my rear bumper right side and looking in the engine room there was also antifreeze on the right side. Found that a water hose running on the right frame and under the body up to radiator Cap pipe in right door frame, war cracked under the body. had to take the right panel of to get to it and put in a new one. Also there was a crack in the hose for the Reservior (behind the right wheel) so i decited to replace all the coolant hoses in engine room. I am planning on changing the hoses in front also, for the heater and radiator. Got bit of a hearattack when i test drived after the hose change, got a hole lot of coolant leak from the rear, but that was my fault, i over filled the coolin system :). About the starter, i have fixed many starters at my work at the autogarage and usually 99% if the starter works when you tap it, the coals (we kall it kol) are either to short og get stuck in old oil and dirt. If the coal donĀ“t connect to stator the pull solinoid does not get ground, You could also hear a low clicking But to be sure check all componments.

Hope all go well

Greetings from Iceland
Sig K Krist

#62 Ady_E12

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Posted 03 January 2013 - 04:12 PM

Yeah, thanks a lot for your advice.
I will re-check that coolant hose, I did look at it a lot(had the right side interior panel off a bunch of time for mending the fuel vapor recovery system and for routing the aftermarket fog lamps power wires).
Also I do think there is something wrong with the starter, I will take it apart and give it a good clean when spring comes(hate working when it's cold).
I tried to hot wire it today and it didn't worked. Lots of grinding and no actual cranking until I seriously whacked it and until I actually rocked the car a few times front-to-back in gear. After that, it cranked and fired up nicely.
I replaced the spring that closes the throttle plate on the carb yesterday and I took the van for a quick drive test. It's waaaay better now. The old one won't even fully close, the throttle plate was actually not sitting on the idle screw. This new one is a lot stronger and it closes the plate right.

So I was driving along, I got a call from a mate with a 1970's Opel and he called me over to mess on our cars.
While setting up jumper cables to start his Opel(it has been parked all winter long), I noticed that his fuel filter is facing backwards compared to mine. After a few seconds of shock and utter epic FAIL shame, I realized that I put mine in backwards.
Flipped it over, put the key in the ignition and immediately saw the gas dripping in it.
I gotta say, the van seems to run faster now. I'm speechless. First, because of my stupidity(had that thing in there for like 3 weeks now), and second, because of the difference that a badly installed fuel filter may make.
Will keep you guys in touch. Thanks again for the advice!




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