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Hello,

 

I recently bought a used 96 legacy with 130K miles. I got a great deal on the car and it is in good shape for the most part. The car did have the torque binding problem which I didn't recognize when I test drove the car (didn't know what to look for). Ends up the previous owner had had a flat and replaced the flat tire with a new tire of different size (over an inch bigger!). So I replaced the tires which helped but the problem didn't completely disappear until I changed the transimission fluid and fluid in both differentials. Thanks to this message board problem solved!!!

 

Is the 2.2L engine in this car an interference engine? I'm not sure when the timing belt was last replaced, I'd like to know what kinda risk I'm taking if I don't change it immediately.

 

Also, what's the difference between the Outback and Legacy models? It seems the are nearly the same car when I look at the specs.

 

Anyways I've always wanted to own a Subaru and now I've finally gotten to try one out. So far I love it!

 

Thanks!

Paul

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If the previous owner was dumb enough to put a mis-sized tire on it they probably have'nt done the Tbelt. Get it done. And while they're at it get new cam seals, crank seal, H2O pump, and oil pump.

 

PS are you sure it was just a flat tire? Sounds like it was in an accident...insurance companies like to buy new tires.

 

Good Luck.

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Yeah, powderhound is right, since you just got it, do the t-belt/waterpump and seals (also thermostat).

 

There are a few threads on here about interference vs. non-interference..you'd have to take a look at those for your particular model.

 

Personally, I'd also do…

air filter

spark plugs/wires

fuel filter

PCV valve

and an oil change

 

Enjoy your new ride.

 

Ed

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Spark plugs, $10

PCV Valve, $2 non OEM, $10-12 OEM

Fuel filter $14 - 22

Thermostat and gasket, $20

Subaru coolant (may as well since you're doing the therm), $13

Air filter, $10

Oil and filter change, $10-20

 

If you're as mechanically disinclined as I am, you can still do these things yourself for the cost of the parts.

 

For the other stuff (T-belt, seals, water pump, etc.), anywhere from $500-1000, depending on independent vs dealer. Or if you're fairly knowlegeable about auto repair, maybe $300 for the parts.

 

So, up to $1100 or so. Roughly a penny and a half per mile for the next 70,000 miles. $16 a month going by the average 12,000 miles a year. Considerably less than any car payment you could get on a newer car. I'd say worth it.

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Ok, fair enough argument. Just wondering why you recommend the new cam seals, crank seal, H2O pump, and oil pump? Are they known to fail or are you recommending the work because the mechanic will be down there anyways when he does the timing belt?

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Mostly because the mechanic will be there anyway and it shouldn't be any extra labor.

 

However, I've had 2 timing belts put on mine in the last 2.5 years (1st when I bought the car with no clue as to previous maintenance records) and recently (30K early) because I was having oil pump and crank seals done for an oil leak that was likely lessening the life of my T-belt, so I had it done just to be safe. Neither mechanic at either time mentioned the need for a new water pump and that work wasn't done. Just the belt and seals.

 

tThe seals, by the way, are a known source of oil leakage in these engines, so it would be a good idea to replace them as preventive maintenance.

 

Do that and stay on top of routine maintenance, you could conceivably get another 150K out of the car.

 

I have nearly 158K and I really plan to keep it til at least 250K. If it's still going after that, I'll hang on to it.

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Here's why you do the cam seals, crank seal, oil pump, etc.

I had my Tbelt done at 80K and now at 103K I have an oil leak. So I have to get new seals, oil pump, etc. But the clincher is I need another new Tbelt because it is oil saturated. Had I done this stuff at 80K I could have saved some $$$. Just avoid future headaches and double paying labor and get it done right the first time.

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