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EA82 Overheating, have done LOTS with zero results


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22 replies to this topic

#1 suprunner

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 03:38 PM

When I first bought my little Loyale four years ago, it ran flawlessly. Temperature gauge stayed just above the "c" on the cluster. Then, about two years ago, she started getting warmer, and warmer. It got to the point that I had to run the heater all of the time. Last summer, I changed the waterpump. Didn't do anything. Then, about 5 months ago, I changed the thermostat AND got a complete flush at a shop. Didn't change anything. I was running without the fan shroud as well. So I put a new one in. Nothing. The electric fan is working just fine as well. The spark plugs don't show evidence of burning coolant, and the only time I lose coolant is when it pushes it out through the over-flow container. I also put a new radiator cap in.
For a while, I was running with a bad EGR solenoid. So, I put in a different one. There was a noticeable increase in power, but not a drop in temperature. . .

Could I have a bad Head Gasket, and the pressure is pushing coolant out?
The mechanic at the shop said that the flush/fill went well. Driving at interstate speeds used to be zero problem for it, but now if I do sustained driving at 65, it gets very close to the red.

Thanks

Greg

#2 skingry

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 03:56 PM

A visual inspection of the tops of the pistons (with the spark plugs removed) will tell you if you have a bad head gasket (a clean piston top is indicative of water making it's way into the cylinder).

When you had the flush and fill, did the mechanic back flush the radiator (ie. run hot water through it backwards)? I've had many a radiator and heater core that have been clogged with multiple years worth of sediment that have been fixed by back flushing.

#3 kerandt

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 07:13 PM

Hey suprunner. Sounds like your radiator is no longer doing it's job? Have you let it warm up, then shut off and feel the radiator for hot / cool spots? Basically feeling for areas that are not circulating well (cooler spots). Some guys even upgrade to a 2 row radiator for extra cooling.

#4 Prwa101

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 07:18 PM

I'd go with the bad Rad, there pretty cheap, 120 for the last one I bought last summer when my rig was doing the same.

Good luck, and good advice don't run it hot or you will have a bad HG in no time.

-Prwa

#5 Subaru_dude

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 07:25 PM

An EA81 will drop right in there. Exhaust and intake bolts right up.

As for the overheating, it does sound like either you have a hose getting sucked closed, or your radiator isn't doing what it's supposed to. Whatever you do, don't put any sort of stopleak in there.

#6 Subruise

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 08:16 PM

well its either the rad or hgs. ive nursed hgs for 12 months and then boomski. huge.. do you get steam from the exhaust? id replace the rad 1) becaause its cheaper than hgs and wont do anything but good 2) if it is hgs, at least youll have a new rad when you do it. that said, i think your hg is going/gone. i even know which spot. guess how. anywho ihth, and good luck

#7 Deener

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Posted 04 May 2012 - 08:00 AM

If you aren't losing coolant then I would put money on a clogged/blocked rad. Classic rad issue - car gets hot at high speeds and up hills (under load). Been there unfortunately a few times. If you ARE loosing coolant then 'spot the leak' is your first objective.

Pull the rad and flush it with your trusty garden hose - see what comes out and judge the flow for yourself - flush forward then backward, repeat....then ask yourself - does it look like strong flow or not? Just make sure to discard the old coolant properly so your neighbors don't lose any pets to negligence.

BTW - when you check the coolant level in your Loyale you need to open the rad cap to check. Judging by the level in the plastic expansion tank can be misleading and flat out wrong.

#8 ivans imports

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Posted 04 May 2012 - 10:45 AM

any time it pushes out over flow bad headgasket and probly rad to change headgaskets and rad

#9 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 04 May 2012 - 11:00 AM

If you aren't losing coolant then I would put money on a clogged/blocked rad. Classic rad issue - car gets hot at high speeds and up hills (under load). ...


That is Absolutely True, however there is another issue that could be causing that Hot operating temperatures, and is a Clogged Exhaust...

#10 Gloyale

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Posted 04 May 2012 - 11:35 AM

radiastors in these cars are barely adequate to begin with.

Needs a new one.

If it only pushes out water when hot then it's not a HG issue it just needs a new radiator.

if it runs cool to middle, but is still pushing out overflow, then it's the HG.

#11 grossgary

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Posted 04 May 2012 - 08:58 PM

radiastors in these cars are barely adequate to begin with.

Needs a new one.

+1 most likely.

radiatorbarn.com has cheap radiators usually.

sounds like classic radiator stuff here...i'm surprised after 2 years and overheating that the radiator was never considered? weird.

a flush by no means guarantees radiator innards.

#12 Crazyeights

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Posted 04 May 2012 - 11:37 PM

I had this happen on an XT6. The radiator was badly plugged with what looked like calcium deposits. No amount of flushing would help. Pull it out and run the garden hose in one of the openings. You'll notice right away if it's plugged up.

#13 HATCHY

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Posted 06 October 2012 - 10:39 AM

what about timing? I know when i messed withmy timing too much. my vehicle was running hotter then normal. then when i went back down to the stock timing my car ran normal temps

#14 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 06 October 2012 - 01:37 PM

Radiator.

GD

#15 Sonicfrog

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Posted 06 October 2012 - 01:59 PM

I'm also in the radiator camp. If you can afford spending the extra few bucks, go with a dual core radiator. More efficient at doing the job of cooling.

#16 l75eya

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Posted 06 October 2012 - 03:23 PM

You can find a cheap radiator on ebay for about 45 dollars with free shipping. Been running one of those in the Loyale for a year now. Zero problems.

#17 opus

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Posted 06 October 2012 - 08:58 PM

Save your time, spend the $45 and get a radiator.

#18 suprunner

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Posted 23 February 2013 - 08:49 PM

Thank you all for the help. I decided to replace the motor with an EJ22. Oh, and I got a brand new radiator. :P

#19 NickNakorn

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Posted 25 February 2013 - 07:08 PM

Also, the radiator cap might be letting coolant out into the expansion tank but not letting it back in on cooling/contraction so you'll keep loosing water - is it the correct radiator cap; if the original was lost you might not have the correct cap (different caps operate at different pressures). 



#20 Subruise

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Posted 25 February 2013 - 10:03 PM

Also, the radiator cap might be letting coolant out into the expansion tank but not letting it back in on cooling/contraction so you'll keep loosing water - is it the correct radiator cap; if the original was lost you might not have the correct cap (different caps operate at different pressures). 

you need a 13lb (not sure about kgs....) rad cap with good seals ie... not cracked and dry



#21 88wacaroo

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Posted 26 February 2013 - 12:22 AM

you need a 13lb (not sure about kgs....) rad cap with good seals ie... not cracked and dry

In case you guys didn"t notice suprunner just put a new ej22 in w/a rad. so he"s past all that RAD. stuff!!



#22 NickNakorn

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Posted 26 February 2013 - 07:47 AM

yes... but the cap does not come with the RAD... we're only trying to offer help...



#23 suprunner

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Posted 26 February 2013 - 12:43 PM

I got a radiator cap from my dealership.

 

Again, Thanks for the help!






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