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Where is the fabeled Edrach Axle Tutorial?
Posted 25 March 2004 - 05:45 PM
BTW why is it not in the Utlimate Subaru Repair Manual?
Posted 25 March 2004 - 09:33 PM
If this isn't in the archives, it should be:
Remove the cotter pin in the axle nut while the car is still on the ground and "break" the nut loose with the 36mm socket and a long breaker bar. Remove the wheel after jacking the car up (wheel chocks and jackstands are VERY important here). Knock out the pin on the DOJ with a drift-tool from the UNBEVELED hole and remove the pivot bolt from the lower arm. I don't remove the sway bar mount (never had to). Pull the DOJ away from the transmission; it should move freely now but won't quite come off. Tug on the wheel hub and pull on the DOJ and often it will pop off the stub axle. If not, loosen the nuts at the top of the strut tower a bit (don't take them off!) and/or pry the lower pivot arm away from its support with a crowbar or large screwdriver. This should allow you to get the DOJ off the stub axle. Now remove the castle nut, and both washers (tapping the hub smartly with a small hammer will help get the spring washer out). Now the trick is to get the spindle out of the hub. Either get a large gear puller (6 or 7 inch version) or a sledge hammer and a block of wood. You can push the spindle out with the gear puller or smack the spindle with the sledge (MAKE SURE THE BLOCK OF WOOD IS THERE to prevent damaging the threads--hard to get your core charge back if the threads are bunged). You might need to use your drift and a smaller sledge and pound the spindle out the last inch or so via the small hole in the end. Now carefully remove the axle from the car. Installation is the reverse of removal. Feed the spindle into the hub first; once you get the nut started on the spindle you can use two screwdrivers to pry the spindle out of the hub. I have a number of large washers that I use for spacers to help that along. In really difficult cases I remove the four bolts holding the outer portion of the hub and put the hub aside to give me more purchase on the end of the spindle. Once you have the spindle through the hub reinstall the washers and castle nut and tighten (not completely yet). Now re-install the DOJ (line up the splines first and note that the splines only line up one way--one hole has a tooth in the center and the other has a groove in the center). Tugging on the hub you should be able to slide the DOJ back onto the stub axle again. Line up the holes and knock the spring pin back into the BEVELLED hole. Put the pivot bolt back into the lower arm and tighten. Tighten the nuts at the top of the strut, replace the wheel and drop the car back on the ground and tighten the castle nut to 145 ft-lbs of torque (or more--more is better and won't hurt anything). Torque the wheel lugs to 75 ft-lbs replace the cotter pin in the castle nut and you're done. Retorque the lugnuts after 300 miles again and check the castle nut for tightness (yes they can loosen up--I'll explain the mystery of that some other time if you ask nicely). Start to finish takes less than 45 minutes unless you run into a snag.
Posted 26 March 2004 - 02:23 AM
Posted 26 March 2004 - 02:54 AM
Posted 26 March 2004 - 08:43 AM
Originally posted by the sucker king
i actually printed out ed's rant from the old board. it should be in the subaru textbook! give me your email and i'll send you a scan.
send it to firstname.lastname@example.org
thanks for the replys everybody. this info should REALLY be added to the Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual!
Got a list of materials so I could make one? Thx!
Posted 26 March 2004 - 09:32 AM
Posted 26 March 2004 - 09:41 AM
Originally posted by archemitis
i may be retarded, but i just use the nut and washer to pull the axle through. and make sure the seals are going ok.
MAYBE? haha kidding
what size washers? like the big ones on my minibike axles ?
Posted 26 March 2004 - 10:08 AM
Posted 26 March 2004 - 10:28 AM
Does it use a piece of wire to connect the cyliinder to the end of the axle?
Does it automatically align the axle, so it goes through the bearings?
I used a small block of cedar and 12 oz hammer to tap the axle through from behind, when I got to spots where the axle nut and available washers did not fit. Put the blcok on tehCVjont boot, be carefuyl to not get it near thd edge, so it won't cut anything.
I also used a stiff piece of wire through the cotter pin hole with vicegrips and tapped/pulled like mad on the vicegrips.
Posted 27 March 2004 - 03:45 PM
I saved this nice bit of info onto my computer. Hope you enjoy these marvelous tips
If this isn't in the archives, it should be:
...and remove the pivot bolt from the lower arm...
which bolt exactly?
bolt and nut holding inner end of control arm to subframe?
nut holding the ball joint together at outer end of control arm?
Posted 27 March 2004 - 03:56 PM
What I did was jack up the vehicle at the transmission crossmember. Loosend wheel lug nuts. Finished jacking it up. Removed wheel from hub, 2 bolts holding steering knuckle to the strut leg, uncliped brake line from strut leg, unbolted sway bar end from control arm, and removed bolts from top of strut. Pounding a 5/8ths or so chizle into the pinch bolt gap on top of the steering knuckle and then pounding a 1" chizel into the gap.
Slipped a crow bar between the control arm, near the swaybar bracket, with the end of the cow bar against the swaybar link on the unibody subframe. This way I was forcing the whole control arm, steering knuckle, brake assembly, and steering rods/ends down away from the unibody and subframe. While standing on the crow bar I worked the strut free from the steering knuckle by twisting the strut lower seat and pulling up away from the knuckle.
Once the other DOJ is unhooked I am ready to lower the transmission from the car. Everything else is unbolted and unhoocked. Should be fun later tonight
Posted 28 March 2004 - 12:19 AM
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