47 replies to this topic

[AKghandi]

so first i soldered in an rca set i got off of a "Dual" stereo.


it wasnt that hard to do and it actually worked!

then i ran power wires which was very easy(yes i used an extension cord. sue me:D)

i ran it under the plastic trim around the doors to the back seat

heres where they come out, they go under the seat to the rear cargo area.

the green wire is the rem wire, i pulled it through a slit in the case of the extension cord so i have one nice neat wire to run to the amp.the stock headunit has an rem out its a blue connector on a white w/black wire

its only a 200watt amp so the wires should be plenty big enough. eventually when money allows ill upgrade everything except the stereo. the sub is on its last legs so that's probably first.



it almost sounds better than the full pioneer system, 1000 watt amp and type r 10, i had in my previous soob.. and it was free, with 1/6th the amount of power draw! plus no ones going to steal my stock stereo and cheap sub.

Edited by AKghandi, 19 May 2012 - 02:50 AM.

[shortysayhi]

Way to get a sub to work on the stock stereo. and Yes your wires are definitely enough for a 200 watt amp. I have a 300 watt amp running power wire smaller then your power cord haha! but Congrats and great build/ ideas!

[AKghandi]

thanks! it really surprised me with the sound quality. aside from the slight rattle of the almost blown subwoofer:rolleyes:

[92_rugby_subie]

Nice!

I miss my subs most of the time. I had a 1000W phoenix gold amp and 2 RF punchs (10"s) and I loved it...

Next BIG sound system I put in, Im getting new seals so I dont sound like the honda civics that rattle everywhere.

[AKghandi]

I used to like big bumping stereos but after a couple years of 2 12's and 1500wAtt amp im kinda going deaf now.. So i limit myself. Plus i dont have to worry about some one hearing it and following me home.

[shortysayhi]

Nice!

Next BIG sound system I put in, Im getting new seals so I dont sound like the honda civics that rattle everywhere.

New seals won't really do a thing. You'd have to dyno mat the whole trunk area. which is expensive!

[AKghandi]

and its heavy! dynamating your whole trunk area would be about 40-50 lbs just for the deadining. add a 20lb amp and 30lb sub thats an extra 100lbs.
which in our underpowered cars would make a difference.

which is why i did what i did. light weight, no excess power draw, no obvious modifications,
sounds great, and it doesn't make my car sound like its being microwaved...

Edited by AKghandi, 19 May 2012 - 11:23 PM.

[wentz912]

100 pounds isn't really THAT noticeable in these cars. I carry double that just in my tools when I work out of town, plus my clothes, mini barbecue, etc.etc. Still pulls 85-90 just fine.

[AKghandi]

True but thats about another second added to the 0-60
Mines a 3at.i dont have alot of go to begin with

Ir it were a ej'd or ea82t then it wouldnt be an issue.

[l75eya]

+1 above post

The 93 loyale is a 3at and it does not like extra weight lol.

I've currently got my steel ramps in the trunk, about 100 pounds in tools, a floor jack, jackstands, and a rim/tire..
once I'm going, I'm going, but it's getting going that's the hard part haha, and god forbid a steep hill....

Not to mention the rear shocks are toast so any big dips in the road and scrunch goes the muffler.

Gonna go get that crap outta there now actually....

[AKghandi]

And im adding bigger tires here in a few weeks.. I dont even wanna know how slow its going to be.

Im going to remove the clutch fan and the a/c and hope i can gain a few hp to ballance it out. Its getting a snorkel eventually also. So cold air intake? Lol

[crazyman03]

Courious on the power coard, did you run the black to neg and white to posi? Or did you just run both to the positive and do a similar method at the amp to the ground/chassis? I only ask because if you did, the overall gauge of the wire with the two conductors would be a similar equivalent to a 8 ish gauge - which is more than sufficient for your 300w amp. If you left the "ground"(green) wire in there you would be even closer to a 4 ish...



-Justin

[crazyman03]

Wow, missed a page there..

To add, if you want a cheap method to sound deadening, you can use spray can insulation. Is very light weight and stops all rattles.

I did a monster install on a 89(ish) gl15. I used "grace ice and water shield" its similar to dynamat or hush mat, but much cheaper. I did 3 layers on the entire cab of the wagon on 300 bucks worth of mat, roof floors and doors. But yea, as for weight, you won't notice it. I didnt start noticing until I had 500 lbs of speaker box in the back thouh, i did have a 5-speed ea82 lol



-Justin

[92_rugby_subie]

Wow, missed a page there..

To add, if you want a cheap method to sound deadening, you can use spray can insulation. Is very light weight and stops all rattles.

I did a monster install on a 89(ish) gl15. I used "grace ice and water shield" its similar to dynamat or hush mat, but much cheaper. I did 3 layers on the entire cab of the wagon on 300 bucks worth of mat, roof floors and doors. But yea, as for weight, you won't notice it. I didnt start noticing until I had 500 lbs of speaker box in the back thouh, i did have a 5-speed ea82 lol



-Justin

Hey now, dont give me ideas... I need to upgrade the soundproofing, but I have other priorities before WCSS

[AKghandi]

The white is posi and the black is neg the green is rem so i have one nice neat wire to run to the amp.

Good idea on the spray deadining.. Will come in handy when i mount 2 8" subs in the gate.

[crazyman03]

You could run both white and black to the posi on the battery, then at the amp, run a new coard from the ground of the amp to a near by chassis bolt. This will double your wire thickness. You won't need to run another wire from the battery, because the entire chassis of the car is negative.


Make sense?


-Justin

[crazyman03]

Hey now, dont give me ideas... I need to upgrade the soundproofing, but I have other priorities before WCSS

the ice and water sheild is also handy for waterproofing for 4wheeling.

some early pictures of the wagon i did - (not to steal the thread, some inspiration )



After adding some window tint, I could barely hear the shop radio, just outside the car blaring.. nice and quiet!

edit: I had 2 15" JL's running 1500w each sub.. noooo rattle ;-), though was hard to keep the hatch closed.. kept popping the latch :-/



-Justin

Edited by crazyman03, 21 May 2012 - 09:59 AM.

[AKghandi]

Thanks for that it sounds right up my alley.. Althought i dont plan on putting more than 1000watts in this car. Mainly because the car cant make enough power...yet..

When i upgrade the amp and sub ill run new wires but i figure if a head unit can pull 200watts from stock wires then my exstension cord will work for now
Yeah i could use both wires for positive but having one positive one negitive and one rem all wrapped together running to the amp is very very nice i can pull the whole thing out of the car without unhooking it.

Ive done my fair share of stereo builds So i know the ropes pretty well..still trying to figure out ohms a little better but im a quick learner.

Im going to deck this car out with amps and speakers while still keeping the stock headunit im going to mount 6x9s in the little hatches on either side then mount 2 8"or10" subs in the rear gate im going to reinforce and sound deaden it because if i dont its going to rattle like crazy..im thinking marine speakers.. I know its going to get submerged lol..

[AKghandi]

... I know I said that I wasn't going to replace the headunit...
but this one was so perfect I just had to..Its a Dual xr4110 i got it out of a car we sent to the crusher, so it was free!

it mounts just like the stock stereo, i had to re route the antenna from under the carpet to under the dash so it would reach the new headunit
wiring it up is basic wiring.

the Dual is actually shorter (looks longer, but it isn't.


I had to take it apart to re-solder the aux port. came apart very easily.
it was slightly challenging to solder such small connections but i managed. and now theres no craptacular fm transmitter so the sound quality improved drastically.


And it has amp preouts!


over all very I'm satisfied, it sounds great, and looks stock..

heres a video to explain it a little better and to show the sound quality.........excuse me.

Edited by AKghandi, 01 June 2012 - 06:46 PM.

[987687]

I've been thinking about one of those, and I was going to get one. But then I decided to hack the stock unit for aux in, which was right wicked easy. So I'm just sticking with that.

[AKghandi]

that sounds like a good idea... you should post up how you did that

[l75eya]

hack the stock unit for aux in, which was right wicked easy

Did you doing that have anything to do with the auxiliary tape deck input on the back?

[987687]

Did you doing that have anything to do with the auxiliary tape deck input on the back?

Yes, basically if the tape deck isn't there, there's a termination plug in the back. With some probing around, the radio has analogue out, and the amp has analogue in. Directly via the plug!! So if it's a radio only setup, the radio out and amp in are directly tied together in that plug terminator.
I was upset it was so easy to hack. But basically I just added a switch to go between aux in and radio. I should take some pics of it. But I did really horrible messy wiring...
My job is wiring stuff, and making wiring look pretty, when I got home to work on my car I say eff it, if it works it's good...