Over time this wagon developed a stutter/hesitation problem that was truly mind boggling.
I started a thread about it a little while back if you would like to read more into that.
It turns out it was something in the distributor causing all the problems. After swapping distributors with a spare one, the engine fired right up.
Also I have some exciting news; this wagon is now Weberized.
I bought the Redline kit off of Ebay, the one with electric choke for the EA82.
Ive had it sitting around for several months thinking my carburetor was about to go out, so it got swapped in as a byproduct of trying to get my car running again.
I followed the advice of these threads:
http://www.ultimates... +weber +vacuum
http://www.ultimates... weber kanurys
Goodbye Hitachi, it was fun while it lasted.
I removed the intake manifold just to make the process of cleaning it easier.
If you are worried that your intake manifold bolts are old and crusty, well use your own digression.
I will also add that it is advised to use genuine Subaru intake manifold gaskets if you removed your intake manifold. Dry! No other sealants needed
I stripped the manifold bare and plugged the water passage on top (for the stock Hitachi) with jb weld.
To make it easy, I plopped a good size blob of jb weld into the opening also ensuring that some made its way into the bypass tube that exits the manifold there.
Then I put painters tape over the opening and turned the manifold upside down to set up.
Gravity made it come out perfectly flat and flush with the base where the carb mounts to.
For the gasket that goes between the manifold and the Transdapt 2107 adapter, I put a layer of Permatex Form-A-Gasket 2 Non-Hardening sealer on both sides. All of the excess that beaded out into the manifold was wiped clean. This sealant is gasoline and oil resistant, and I also put a very thin layer of it on my new thermostat gasket.
The gasket between the adapter and the Weber was left dry.
This little guy came from Ace Hardware and cost $1.20. I got the idea from Kanurys build thread.
It is rubber, hollow, and at the nipple it has a threaded brass connector inside which is also hollow.
If you looked at Kanurys thread then you know what this is for; the pcv bypass to the air cleaner.
Drilled a hole in the air cleaner baseplate. (Didn't compensate for the gasket, D'oh!)
Clears the airfilter pretty well.
My Thermo-vacuum-switch's vacuum lines are routed as such, from the top:
1: Fresh air Tee'd from the pcv bypass hose
2: EGR- Tee'd to the egr port on the right/front of the Weber carb
3: Distributor advance- Tee'd to distributor port on the left/front of the Weber carb
Power to the choke is wired from the oem engine harness. It is the blue wire on the three-wire-plug.
I used the old Hitachi's throttle lever, a couple washers had to be added to clear the Weber carb's linkage.
When trying to decide if I wanted to use the throttle cable holder/ adjustment-point bracket that came with the Weber kit, or the stock one...
I made my own bracket.
This is because the stock one is now positioned too far away from the throttle lever with the Transdapt adapter.
In contrast, the bracket that comes with the Weber kit is too close to the throttle lever for the stock Subaru throttle cable.
However, the Weber's bracket can be bent backwards (similar to mine pictured above) to be in the correct position.
But! The throttle cable position of the Weber bracket will put a bind on the throttle cable if the spare tire is put in the engine compartment.
This is due to its high mounting point compared to the oem bracket.
Now you can see why I opted to create my own, bolted to the back of the intake manifold.
If you have a lift or if you don't care about putting the spare in the engine compartment, then by all means bend the Weber's bracket to work.
I have to say, everything is so much easier to get to now.