*NOTE: my car has 2" lift already installed*
Shock: KYB Gas-A-Just KB9025 (part is found under 'Yota 4runner on Rockauto)
Spring: Moog CC-248 (used in older Honda Accords, Google search the part lists for 86-89)
Coil Spring Dimensions from Moog
End 1 Type: Square
End 2 Type: Tangential
Inside Diameter: 2.5"
Bar Diameter .5"
Install Height: 9"
Spring Rate: 279
Free Height: 12.88"
The spring in its full size extends to the very end of the shock.
tried to compress it to fit the shock by using my HF spring compressors in a non approved way (one hook of the 2 on the bottom, its all i could get in there. ) so that wasnt goin to work, a little bit of trial and error and i ended up with this..
i cut 1 coil off of the bottom of the spring (tangenital end)
i cut 1.25 coils off of the top of the spring (square end)
this made the coil to the height that i could atleast assemble the stuff.
UPPER COIL SEAT:
drill it out to 12mm (or just so the shock fits thru it. i just used a 1/2" bit i had layin around, 12.5mm.
BUMPSTOP: since its attached to the dust boot, and i had new dust boots that came with my new shock, i cut off the bumpstop 3 notches from the end, and put it on the shock, not sure if that was necessary but i did, i made it shorter just because of the travel of the shock being shorter
UPPER SHOCK MOUNT: to assemble, i cut the rubber bushing from the top of the mount in half, or so it just protrudes from the top of the shock mount enough that the nut will be able to be threaded on. for the bottom bushing, i used the one that came with the shock. also i drilled out a flat washer to go under the nut.
so in order from top to bottom: nut, washer, half-Ea82 upper bushing, shock mount, lower bushing from new hardware, new hardware washer, upper coil seat, bumpstop.
i was able to put it all together with out spring compressors, i did have to push down by hand on the mount to get the top nut to thread on.
GET ON THE CAR
once the car is up on stands, drop the mustachebar and rear end of the rear dif. your axles will thank you. i didnt do this on until after the first side was done. the axles were REALLY stretched out.
you will need to modify the welded nut that the old shock lower bolt threaded into, i used a 9/16" drill bit to drill out the hole that bolt goes thru on the back of the control arm. as for that welded nut. you can try to remove it, i attempted, but couldnt get in there and didnt want to waste alot of time tryin to mcgyver it out of there, so i just drilled right throught it and used a longer bolt, i believe it was a 80mm bolt i used.
also.. the bumpstop stop on the control arm will get in the way due to the lift and not lowerin the suspension tube if you have not done so. since my bumpstops rusted out years ago...
little bit of grinder lovin..
bolt the top bolts in first, then you can use a little 'oomph' and get the lower to line up, i had to put a pipe in there to get some leverage so i could get the bolt lined up, the pipe went above the control arm and under the suspension tube, my pipe was long enough i could just straddle and sit on it and adjust the downward force that way. it worked well.
with a 2" lift iwth this setup, it would be good to drop the dif a little as you can see here is my axle angle currently (tomorrows project: dif drop plate)
here is what it looks like after driving about a half mile or so to the photospot.
i am curious though.. based on the wheel gap... what lift height does this setup resemble? 4"?
due to the stiffness of the springs, i wouldnt assume they will settle TOO much from here.
Edited by xbeerd, 03 June 2012 - 12:01 AM.