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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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HG job finished :) Wont start :( - EDIT - Will Start :) Day 3 Update


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46 replies to this topic

#26 samneric

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Posted 13 June 2012 - 07:40 AM

Welcome to today's viewing :)

Bubbles are still there and I get what appears to be misfiring at 70mph.

CEL flashed.

Unless something broke or wasn't plugged in when re-assembling I'm guessing water in the cylinders.

I reckong I'll buy a JDM when I get the money together - as long as I don't run it much - I still have my RX-7 for gorgeous mornings like I had this morning :headbang:

Steve

#27 Fairtax4me

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Posted 13 June 2012 - 11:11 AM

Well... shucks. :(
I suppose you could pull the plugs and try to confirm.
Did you try the combustion gas test again?

Time for a 2.2 swap.

#28 samneric

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Posted 13 June 2012 - 11:45 AM

Well... shucks. :(
I suppose you could pull the plugs and try to confirm.
Did you try the combustion gas test again?

Time for a 2.2 swap.


I'm gonna do the gas test tonight when I get home. The kit is there and I didn't want to stick the test tube into my radiator in the middle of the company car-park :)

Lesson learned in doing the HG job - buy a machine-shop straight edge and *make sure* both heads and block are perfectly flat. This is the only variable because I followed all other instructions exactly.

I would recommend everyone do this on a HG replacement - why put it back together and wing-it on potential warpage???

I like the 2.5 so I'm gonna buy a JDM and swap my recon-heads and intake onto it.

At least I have a second car (which I can't drive in the rain) and the subie will drive in a limited fashion until I can save for the new block.

Steve



Steve

#29 samneric

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Posted 13 June 2012 - 07:10 PM

Evening update:

No overheating.

Still bubbles in the overflow.

Water seems to have risen in there.

I pulled a gas leak test on the bottle - stayed blue :confused::-\:drunk: ??

I didn't get the new radiator cap today - I'll get it tomorrow and post back then.

Steve

#30 samneric

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Posted 14 June 2012 - 05:51 PM

New rad cap in - bubbles still there :(

Steve

#31 coolskaterkid

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Posted 14 June 2012 - 09:26 PM

I didnt see you mention if, when you had the heads reconditioned, what did that include? Hopefully they resurfaced them and pressure tested them(to check for cracks)?

#32 samneric

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Posted 15 June 2012 - 06:02 AM

They resurfaced them - I didnt't have them pressure test them.

I didn't think subie heads cracked. I'm begining to think they are though :)

Steve

#33 samneric

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Posted 15 June 2012 - 08:43 AM

BTW - taking sponsorship deals/donations now for my JDM EJ25D fund :D

Steve

#34 ccrinc

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Posted 16 June 2012 - 12:10 PM

While I sympathize with your situation, I feel this is a good place to put in my .02 worth.

1) If you're going to do a fix on an overheating car, do it all the way. Piecemeal just doesn't work. You can't throw head gaskets at it one week, then a thermostat next week and a radiator cap later. In the meantime, it overheats again, and you're back to square one. Wait until you can afford to do the whole thing right.

2) Don't scrimp on parts. Subaru Genuine headgaskets and thermo are a must, while you can get away with OEM stuff like NSK idlers and NAPA hoses, some parts just HAVE to be Genuine Subaru.

3) While the heads rarely crack, they MUST be surfaced. Frequently the block too: they warp easily and you can't ask a gasket to seal the gaps from warped parts.

4) Research, research, research...BEFORE you even pick up a wrench. Invest in a factory manual if you have (the engine section only). While there are many VERY knowledgeable people here, some who throw random guesses at the problem just confuses you more.

5) Mark everything as to where it hooks back up to and take lots of careful pictures. It helps unless you know them well enough to do blindfolded.

OK, that's more like $5 worth. But over 17+ years, I've learned a few things, and one of them is that half a fix will only fix it halfway.

Emily

#35 brus brother

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Posted 16 June 2012 - 06:39 PM

Emily,
I have an 05 with the weeping oil at the bottom of the HG.
Is resurfacing a must under these circumstances when replacing the HGs?
There isn't any overheating and I am wondering if that is the only indication.
Is the straight edge test good enough?

#36 ccrinc

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Posted 16 June 2012 - 10:49 PM

Emily,
I have an 05 with the weeping oil at the bottom of the HG.
Is resurfacing a must under these circumstances when replacing the HGs?
There isn't any overheating and I am wondering if that is the only indication.
Is the straight edge test good enough?


I think you'd be good with that. This is a common issue with the standard head gaskets for any of 2000-up SOHC 2.5 engines.

If you have them replaced, insist on using the turbo 642 head gaskets. We use only those now due to that situation and have not had a single problem since.

#37 samneric

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Posted 17 June 2012 - 10:53 AM

Misfire problem resolved.

After reading a GD article, learn't that the crank sensor triggers timing.

Checked the plug and it was loose :rolleyes:

Steve

Edited by samneric, 17 June 2012 - 01:24 PM.


#38 ccrinc

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Posted 17 June 2012 - 01:28 PM

Misfire problem resolved.

After reading a GD article, learn't that the crank sensor triggers timing.

Checked the plug and it was loose :rolleyes:

Steve


Yay! Sometimes it's the little things.

Always think spark-fuel-air first. :clap:

#39 samneric

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Posted 17 June 2012 - 01:47 PM

Yay! Sometimes it's the little things.

Always think spark-fuel-air first. :clap:


Yeah, thanks - this is my first FI HG job - my Brat HG replacement went a lot easier due to the fact that it's all mechanical. I'm new to this "it doesn't start without the sensor connected" technology :brow:

Steve

#40 1-3-2-4

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Posted 17 June 2012 - 08:07 PM

yeah to the person who said not to peicemeal it.. awhile back when I did mine last year in Aug I saved and saved until I had all my parts took a picture of it all on the floor and started working on it for the vacation.. I did run out of money to get the head resurafaced so I planned everything so I would be done with the engine related stuff right on Friday, dropped the heads off to get resurfaced and that was that..

followed the service manual 100% marked my headbolts with paint so I would get the 90 degrees or however it said to tighten (can't remember) aven't had any problems..

I was in stop and go traffic 3 days ago and it was really humid and hot out and that was the first time I saw my temp climb I took out torque app and the temp went to I think 206 F I set my alarm to go off at 210F but as soon as I started moving all was fine.

#41 brus brother

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Posted 17 June 2012 - 10:35 PM

What misfire problem and what about the bubbles in the coolant??:confused:
I feel like someone changed the channel when I went to the refrigerator!
:popcorn:

#42 samneric

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Posted 17 June 2012 - 10:54 PM

What misfire problem and what about the bubbles in the coolant??:confused:
I feel like someone changed the channel when I went to the refrigerator!
:popcorn:


Now now BB - we wouldn't want you run out of popcorn, would we? lol

I mentioned the bubbles on page 2 of the thread and the misfire page 3.

I didn't mention it on here but the misfire got worse. Anything over 3k rpm and it would misfire. This happened around 70 mph. So I drove it under that speed.

On Friday I decided to try the high rpms on a cold engine and it got worse. Even after dropping down the rpms the engine would cut out :eek: I hope you didn't spit out your popcorn in horror here!) lol

Luckily I got it home ok. Sat was ok but the cut out happened while driving - managed to bump start it because I had driving about 30mph.

Came to start it today - no go :mad:.

I had since read one of GD's answers on misfiring which mentioned the crank sensor's involvement. I decided - what the hell, I'll see if it has come loose. It had!!! :clap:... look at this thread - more emotional mood swings than a drunken celebrity :)

Anyway - the plastic hook that keeps the plug on the sensor must have broken off so I'll need some way of keeping it on long term. Good news is... it still drives :headbang:

Still have the bubbles from page 2 though so I'll have to wait and see myself .. :popcorn:

Steve

#43 1-3-2-4

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Posted 17 June 2012 - 11:03 PM

I know you said you followed the haynes manual don't feel bad for me asking but did you tighten the bolts in the right order? Have you tried driving with the AC on yet? I found before doing my HG that was the quickest way to get it to overheat because the radiator has to deal with more extra heat.

#44 samneric

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Posted 17 June 2012 - 11:23 PM

I know you said you followed the haynes manual don't feel bad for me asking but did you tighten the bolts in the right order? Have you tried driving with the AC on yet? I found before doing my HG that was the quickest way to get it to overheat because the radiator has to deal with more extra heat.


Sure - I live in New Orleans - the A/C went on a month ago! :)

We followed the Haynes instructions precisely.

I have the order memorized.... hang on 2, 5, 1, 6, 4, 3 if i'm not mistaken lol.

Steve

#45 Fairtax4me

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Posted 18 June 2012 - 12:08 AM

Well that explains it! You did it out of order! It's supposed to be 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. :-p

3..1..6
5..2..4

[/sarcasm]
In all seriousness, that is the order according to the FSM.


I'd still love to blame air in the system, or a faulty thermostat. Speaking of, have you tried running it without the thermostat? Can't hurt. 20-30 minutes for gits and shiggles right?

#46 samneric

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Posted 18 June 2012 - 08:54 AM

Well that explains it! You did it out of order! It's supposed to be 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. :-p

3..1..6
5..2..4

[/sarcasm]
In all seriousness, that is the order according to the FSM.


I'd still love to blame air in the system, or a faulty thermostat. Speaking of, have you tried running it without the thermostat? Can't hurt. 20-30 minutes for gits and shiggles right?


I haven't tried removing the t-stat but I'm not sure what that will achieve? If I have bubbles and water is getting pushed out into the overflow bottle how can it be involved?

My latest purchase was a turkey baster so I can periodically transfer the water BACK from the overflow bottle into the radiator :brow:

Steve

#47 1-3-2-4

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Posted 18 June 2012 - 09:01 AM

Well that explains it! You did it out of order! It's supposed to be 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. :-p

3..1..6
5..2..4

[/sarcasm]
In all seriousness, that is the order according to the FSM.


I'd still love to blame air in the system, or a faulty thermostat. Speaking of, have you tried running it without the thermostat? Can't hurt. 20-30 minutes for gits and shiggles right?



haha good one.. Speaking of the T-stat I had picked up a new dealer one a week before the HG job.. I made sure I had everything I would need so I would have to do less running around.

I know when I ended up putting coolant back in I don't think it took the whole gallon.. It's been awhile so I can't remember.. I think I just filled it with straight water then ended up flushing it again.




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