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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Pulling engine, etc. through the eyes of a noob


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75 replies to this topic

#26 ll77

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Posted 24 June 2012 - 11:51 PM

Today was a fun, easy day. I scrubbed the sides of the heads with engine degreaser and a wire brush, then I got bored of cleaning and I took the valves out.

Some shots of the heads:

Driver's side:

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Passenger's:

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Taking off the valves:

The valves

Driver's:

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Passenger's

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This is my valve compressor at work

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Taking off the retainers with a slightly magnetized screwdriver

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Yummy!

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This is how I'll keep them organized

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Contemplating whether or not to change the valve guides... these are the OEM NOK ones... I only have the Fel-pro kind...

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#27 ll77

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Posted 25 June 2012 - 02:11 PM

Hey guys, I'm struggling with the valve lash adjusters, I've gotten 2 out, but the others aren't budging. They were pretty stubborn while the head was on, so I waited until now, but it seems it's even more difficult now. I think I messed up.

Any suggestions for getting them pulled? Pleeeaase?

Edited by ll77, 25 June 2012 - 02:26 PM.


#28 ll77

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 09:51 PM

Hi guys, I've just been scrubbing, scraping, scrubbing with a scotch pad, razor blade and wd40 and today I think I'm finally finished with the first head... what do you guys think? :brow: There are a lot of low spots.

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I can't feel anything in my thumb from all the scrubbing.

#29 tractor pole

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 11:24 PM

The last few steps are missing:

X) Drop EA82 in dumpster

Y) Install EJ22 w/adaptor plate and harness.

Z) Pass go. Collect $200.

GD


I want to know where I pick up this $200 you speak of...:popcorn:

#30 djellum

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 11:32 PM

came across this the other day while looking around. might be something you want to look into or ask about.

http://www.ultimates...ight=glass head

#31 ll77

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Posted 29 June 2012 - 12:07 AM

Oh. That's how its supposed to look. Wow. Mine look terrible then haha. Thanks.. I think I'll slink over to the machine shop...

#32 djellum

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Posted 29 June 2012 - 12:12 AM

that threads all about doing it yourself at home. Not that taking it to the machine shop isn't good, but your already attempting the home done method. there way just looks like it will give you a better finish.

#33 ll77

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Posted 29 June 2012 - 10:59 PM

Yeah... I just feel jittery about doing something so important myself... and I don't have any glass... should be getting them back on Monday.:clap: In the meantime, I'll be doing other things, and I'll be sure to post!

#34 ll77

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Posted 30 June 2012 - 11:24 PM

Today, I resealed my oil pump, and replaced my front crank seal.

Questions for those who don't like reading my looong posts:

This is how I installed my seals, good? Not seated enough? I have no experience with driving seals in, and I want to know if I haven't done a good job...

Oil pump:

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Front crankshaft seal:

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also, I used grease to hold the mickey mouse seal onto the pump surface, it should just melt into the oil, right? I noticed the pump pulley spun with more drag, most likely because of the excess grease pressed into the rotor...but a little grease never hurt anything right?


Ok, on to the job

The seals: oil pump seal, oil pump o-ring, oil pump shaft seal

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loosen the nut holding the pulley on, preferably it would have been done with the belts on, but I just wrapped a portion of the belt onto the pulley to hold it still while I broke the nut with a 12 mm wrench.

I removed these 5 10 mm bolts holding the oil pump onto the block. They have washers.

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Then she slides right off. You can also see the inner rotor in the block in this photo, I left it in, but it comes out.

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I took off the oil filter at this point, but it doesn't have to come off

The seals were actually surprisingly supple, but very flattened

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Take off the nut holding the pulley on and slide the pulley off the rotor/shaft assembly. Mine took some persuading with a prybar, but it came off in the end. Now we can see the shaft seal.

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Slide the shaft out the rear

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pick out the old shaft seal, clean up the surface a bit

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and I used a wooden mallet and my 27mm socket flipped upside down to install the seal

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I didn't want to beat it too hard, but as you can see, the top sits a bit out of the lip. **Is this good enough?**

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Then the pulley and shaft went back on to the pump assy. There is a flat spot that needs to be aligned on the shaft and pulley.
"Hey friends! Great to see you again!"

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Then I replaced the o-ring and mickey mouse gasket. I put grease on the mickey seal to hold it on, because it didn't fit perfectly and kept falling out...***is this a problem? I actually used quite a bit.***

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grease made alignment much easier, and I just bolted the pump right back on.

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Now I need an oil filter.

#35 ll77

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Posted 30 June 2012 - 11:25 PM

Then the front crank seal was leaking, so I picked it out

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Drove the new, NOK seal in with a 12 mm deep socket just like MilesFox in his "The Art of Subaru Maintenance" series

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and again, **is this good enough?**

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And wouldn't it be good logic that installing the crank pulley would be forcible enough to seat the seal anyways (rubs chin)?

Please, if this is unacceptable let me know, and I will immediately correct anything. I work really slow, I make sure to be very deliberate in my work, and I really want to do this right. I appreciate everyone's input here, thanks so much! :D:D:D

#36 RXJ

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Posted 02 July 2012 - 08:31 PM

Slow and deliberate is the way to go...no sense slammn things together in a rush if ya want it to work...right kids?
Your pics are great

#37 l75eya

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Posted 03 July 2012 - 01:28 PM

Slide the shaft out the rear


:lol: That's what...- nevermind =P

Grease should be fine, I've heard of people using all sorts of stuff, vasoline, etc. If it concerns you at all, change your oil after a couple hundred miles.

Seals look good.

+1 above; no sense in rushing. Do it right the first time. "The lazy man works twice" Spanish Proverb. haha

#38 RXJ

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Posted 04 July 2012 - 06:41 AM

yeah, I was gonna say your seals look good too but figured someone with a gazzillion more posts than I should chime in on that...
I used your pics as a reference when asking myself..."wtf IS this hose I'm reattaching" ..
good work...happy fourth..

#39 ll77

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Posted 04 July 2012 - 10:57 PM

:lol: That's what...- nevermind =P

Grease should be fine, I've heard of people using all sorts of stuff, vasoline, etc. If it concerns you at all, change your oil after a couple hundred miles.

Seals look good.

+1 above; no sense in rushing. Do it right the first time. "The lazy man works twice" Spanish Proverb. haha


LOL speaking of vasoline...

yeah, I was gonna say your seals look good too but figured someone with a gazzillion more posts than I should chime in on that...
I used your pics as a reference when asking myself..."wtf IS this hose I'm reattaching" ..
good work...happy fourth..


Great to know that this post is of service to people here! Thanks, my fourth was pretty productive!

I got lazy about posting the past few days, besides it's been slow, with some cleaning, brushing, scraping in between some fun, easy jobs.

I took Ivans Imports advice


while you have cam caiers apart take the plunger that has the sping behind it and stretch the sping about a 1/4 to increse the oil preshure its in the top part of cam caier is a 14 mm bolt that holds the oil tube on do thiss to both sides


Remove the bolt holding the oil pipe, underneath is the spring. I observed that there was no tension in the spring, as the bolt easily threaded back on with no resistance from the spring.

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so I stretched it till it was this long, and put it back in, the bolt should be torqued to 17-20 ft/lbs

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scrubbed the valve covers, cleaned off the RTV (whoever worked on it before was seriously in love with RTV and used it on everything, I know RTV should not be applied to the valve cover gaskets), and let the gaskets groove in their grooves.

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the OEM NOK cam seals looked great, no sign of leaks, so I decided not to touch them. Also, those little nubs on the cam face are slippery little things.

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but I did replace the o-ring

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The heads, resurfaced and looking great! The machine shop I took them to was great, the guy I talked to told me he had owned and autocrossed an xt, and told me that the cracking between the valve holes(?) on the heads eventually led to leaking.. but maybe because he was autocrossing it. I told him I would to try resurfacing anyway.

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But they were awesome, they removed my broken stud and pulled the valve lash adjusters that I had been struggling with forever, took out all my old valve stem oil seals, and even stamped a couple of "D's' in my drivers side head for me! Great people.

I installed my oil seals, first exhaust (outer edges) then intake (inner) with a 12mm socket and a wooden hammer

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Then I put the valves and springs back on the head, in their appropriate spots

slide valve into valve guide, then push it up through the oil seal

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put the springs and retainers back on

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easy peasy

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put the valve lash adjusters back in the head, the ones that can be pushed down easily should be submerged in oil and pumped a few times before installation.

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don't forget to replace the exhaust manifold gaskets

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and I had a water pipe o-ring too.

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Still waiting on cam case o-rings and new intake manifold bolts..

#40 djellum

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Posted 05 July 2012 - 12:57 AM

the cracking between the valves was always explained as commonplace to me. though eventually it can crack too deep or crack through the valve seat and cause problems.

My old XT turbo finally died from them, the crack hit a water jacket and was letting coolant into the exhaust. the mechanic I have always gone too says that they pretty much all have them, just remember that they can go too deep and cause problems so watch your heat.

#41 ll77

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Posted 06 July 2012 - 10:13 PM

the cracking between the valves was always explained as commonplace to me. though eventually it can crack too deep or crack through the valve seat and cause problems.

My old XT turbo finally died from them, the crack hit a water jacket and was letting coolant into the exhaust. the mechanic I have always gone too says that they pretty much all have them, just remember that they can go too deep and cause problems so watch your heat.


Thanks, I'll keep my eye on it.

Today, I saw this (water pump where water pipe goes in):

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My God, I don't think I did that.. how bad is this? Will it leak? I really hope I don't need a new water pump!



Today I fetched my cam case o rings and intake manifold bolts

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this is the block, clean as I could get it with a razor blade

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fit the head gasket on, lubed the bolts a bit

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here's the torquing diagram from the FSM

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torquing should be done in 3 steps,
1st: torque all of them to 22 ft/lbs
2nd: torque to 43 ft/lbs
3rd: torque to 47 ft/lbs
I should also mention, I'm using those Felpro Permatorque gaskets.

Posted Image

arrrgghhhh! Maybe I should slap some RTV in there?

Edited by ll77, 07 July 2012 - 12:50 AM.


#42 RXJ

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Posted 07 July 2012 - 11:31 AM

^ I'm not even sure what we're looking at there, but I don't remember a new water being time consuming nor all that expensive...

#43 ll77

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Posted 07 July 2012 - 12:08 PM

That inner lip of the water pump, where the water pipe meets it, is cracked. Sorry the photos are so bad.

#44 l75eya

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Posted 07 July 2012 - 12:32 PM

I think you should get rid of any bits of metal that are left in that lip that could come off and wind up in your cooling system.

I also think you should just replace the pump, as you're going through the engine and a water-pump is relatively cheap to have on there new, but if you don't want to do that you can always use that one, get your build together, fire it up and see if it leaks.

If it does, it's not that hard to replace; I mean you've torn the whole engine apart now lol, what's the big deal if you have to swap in a new waterpump after your done

Sucks that happened though, don't get me wrong.
Good luck!

#45 ll77

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Posted 07 July 2012 - 01:00 PM

Yeah, it doesn't look very hard at all.. maybe I'll just go ahead and order it... I hate having to wait for parts to come in though. I don't see any metal bits, I thought the same thing when I saw it, but I guess they're lost now. Sucks...

#46 RXJ

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Posted 07 July 2012 - 04:29 PM

That inner lip of the water pump, where the water pipe meets it, is cracked. Sorry the photos are so bad.


dude, your pics are nothing short of spectacular..seriously...
It's obvious it's the water pump port, I'm just not yet familiar enough to pick up on the issue you wanted to point out....nothing to do with your pic's quality....I replaced my pump simply because I was there...well, that and 161,000 miles..
yes, def go for the new pump....how many miles on that engine anyway? sorry if I missed that in an earlier post..
keep pluggn away

#47 RXJ

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Posted 07 July 2012 - 04:44 PM

hey..i didn't throw my old pump away and just looked into the same port...i'm pretty sure that what you think is sheared off is just a rough cast or rough machining...mine looks extremely similar and I'm certain it's not a flaw....
There's similar casting differences in an oil return port on the block...even yours (pretty sure there's a pic back there) is different from the two others compared in a recent thread..

that said, you should prob change the water pump since you're there..and when will you want to be there again??

#48 ll77

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Posted 07 July 2012 - 11:30 PM

dude, your pics are nothing short of spectacular..seriously...
It's obvious it's the water pump port, I'm just not yet familiar enough to pick up on the issue you wanted to point out....nothing to do with your pic's quality....I replaced my pump simply because I was there...well, that and 161,000 miles..
yes, def go for the new pump....how many miles on that engine anyway? sorry if I missed that in an earlier post..
keep pluggn away


Haha such flattery. Thank you friend. I am not completely sure, but the guy I bought it off said there were ~120k miles on the engine he got from the junkyard, the original one had overheated.

Yeah, I think I will change the pump, it's just waiting for the part that's the hardest part really, I wish I'd have ordered one in the first place, but now there's a really cheap NOS Paraut pump on ebay that I'll have to wait 6 days just to bid on..

#49 ll77

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Posted 08 July 2012 - 10:53 PM

I got the guy with the Paraut pump to end his auction, and it's shipping tomorrow! Yes!

I got my cam cases on

I positioned the both cams so that upon installation the cam pins would point up like so

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at first I used grease to hold the rocker arms on

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then I realized I needed to reposition the engine because the tire was in the way:-p


Then the engine was tilted too much and the grease wouldnt hold so I used zipties

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Make sure the grooves for sealant in the cam case are clean! I had to scrape the RTV out at the last minute because it slipped my mind

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I used Permatex anaerobic gasket maker, jabbed the tube with scissors and it squeezed oh so slowly... I didn't do the greatest job of getting a single good bead on there.. but this anaerobic stuff is top-shelf shizzle anyways right?

EDIT: also note the cam case o ring in the bottom right of the cam case in the pic. put that on with a bit of motor oil

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Fit it on the head, install bolts loosely and snip and pull all the zipties

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give all the bolts 14 ft/lbs, wipe the excess gunk off, do the other side

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Then I sprayed some copper sealant on my intake manifold gaskets and positioned it on, only to find that one of the bolts couldn't get through the manifold.. it was blocked by a piece of rust that I had to knock through with an old bolt... the manifold shedded all kinds of rust all over the coppered gasket, so I just sprayed more on, to the point where I got a bit of orange peel! I know that's probably more than I was supposed to put on, but...

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then I oiled the threads of the bolts and torqued them with 16 ft./lbs

also, now would be a good time to install the fuel line bracket onto the manifold

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then I tightened the plug for the EGR pipe with 27 ft/lbs

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On to the timing belts

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align the flywheel's center timing mark (marked in orange) to the pointer on the flywheel housing

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Edited by ll77, 17 July 2012 - 12:07 AM.


#50 ll77

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Posted 08 July 2012 - 10:54 PM

I had new tensioners, so I unbolted them and took them off the springs

Driver's

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Passenger's

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Old vs New

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The old ones made a considerable amount of noise and spun very freely. The new ones are much quieter and tighter.

I installed them in their slackened positions, then I began to fit the driver's side belt on (the longer one)

I slipped it under the tensioner, then over the crank pulley to the crank sprocket, then under the oil pump pulley, then under the idler pulley, then fit it onto the cam sprocket from underneath. Belt tension is important underneath the cam pulley for this belt.

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I didn't have a spanner, and I just put firm counterclockwise pressure with my hand and pushed the tensioner down a bit while my dad tightened the tensioner bolts (14 ft/lbs). Tighten the pivoting bolt on the tensioner last.

This part is important: crank the crank pulley clockwise a full 360 degrees, so that the driver's cam pulley is pointing down like this:

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the center timing mark should be aligned with the flywheel housing pointer, as it was before

The short belt is easy, just slip it over the crank sprocket and fit it to the top of the cam pulley, keeping tension on the top portion of the belt. I got the pops to tighten like before, I applied counterclockwise pressure and pushed up on the tensioner.

right now we look like this:

driver's

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passengers:

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flywheel

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I torqued down my cam pulley bolts (7 ft/lbs) and oil pump pulley nut (12 ft/lbs) at this point


Then I put my valve covers back on. looking more like an engine now!

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Then the distributor went on. Had to fiddle with this for a while.

Crank the crank pulley clockwise until the pointer of the flywheel housing is aligned with "0." here's the FSM:

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Align the indentation with the bump on the distributor

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Then it goes right in. I didn't just slam it in there like a barbarian though, it turns when it meets with the cam gear, so it kept sliding back.

I had the marks perfectly aligned, and this is what I got the first time. Not what we want!

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This is what we want

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The rotor should be pointing at the #1 spark plug position when it is all the way in. I slid it in a bit off clockwise so that it would fall into the right position, if that makes sense. Fiddling will get you there sooner or later.

Then put the mounting bolts back in, and the timing is all done for now. I might take my timing light to it when it's all together again.

Edited by ll77, 08 July 2012 - 10:59 PM.





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