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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Pulling engine, etc. through the eyes of a noob


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75 replies to this topic

#51 RXJ

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Posted 09 July 2012 - 05:52 AM

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now, you did that on purpose

:D
carry on

looking forward to the post with that thing purring

#52 ll77

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Posted 11 July 2012 - 11:06 PM

now, you did that on purpose

:D
carry on

looking forward to the post with that thing purring


hehehe you got me. I can't wait either, hopefully by the end of this week..?

My water pump came in today! Got it for 25 bucks shipped on ebay!

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The gasket it came with looks questionable in quality.. but the instructions say to install it without fluid packing, so I think I'll stick to that.


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and I've wound up with quite a few extra gaskets and o rings in my set... my guess is that they are mostly for the carbureted models, and not for my SPFI. Oh well!


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Looking forward to throwing the pump on tomorrow! :brow:

Edited by ll77, 11 July 2012 - 11:09 PM.


#53 RXJ

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Posted 12 July 2012 - 12:40 PM

Just outta curiosity how does the new port compare to your old one? (as far as the casting or machining looks)

#54 ll77

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Posted 13 July 2012 - 10:33 PM

Just outta curiosity how does the new port compare to your old one? (as far as the casting or machining looks)


Sorry guys, I lost my SD card adapter for my pictures, finally found it today. Here it is, the lip is very small compared to the old one, and much less jagged.

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I got the pump on today

unbolt it from the 5 bolts around, give it a tap with a rubber mallet to break the bond, coolant might spill.

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undo the hose from the top clamp and remove the pump

clean the mating surface on the block with brake cleaner and a razor blade


don't be a loser like me and re use the old coolant hose. It's a 1/2" diameter, I bought 5/8 because it really looked like 5/8! But 5/8 is too big and kinks. I'm too anxious to get this over with, and the old hose wasn't leaking before, so I said f-- it.



I hooked up the hose to the new pump, then fit the other end to the coolant pipe and fit the paper gasket in between the pump and the block. There was no torque spec to be found in the FSM, and none of my resources had it, so it must be pretty negligible, just "tight enough?" I just cranked the bolts on in a star pattern with a 3/8 drive ratchet to "1-finger strength," which is like 7-9 ft/lbs. Good enough? I'll find out soon enough :brow: KABLOOOSH

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water pipe back on

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pulley and alternator bracket back on

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other stuff back on

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chock the flywheel (pretty neat this time)

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remove crank pulley, apply thread locker, and I gave the sucker 75 ft/lbs

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I found some more of what looks like RTV (grey stuff) around the place behind the splined portion of the shaft here. I probably won't do anything about it, but is that normal?

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Edited by ll77, 13 July 2012 - 10:37 PM.


#55 ll77

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Posted 14 July 2012 - 06:21 PM

My, my, that main shaft alignment is a royal pain in the rump roast, isn't it. I woke up early this morning, and I've been struggling with it all day!!! I've jerked the crank millions of times, but it refuses to close up! I guess it's just one of those things we have to fight through... what a b--

#56 bratman18

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Posted 14 July 2012 - 06:24 PM

Looks like it could be never seize on that shaft. And also make sure you have the 2 dowel pics where they need to be on the engine OR the tranny.

#57 ll77

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Posted 15 July 2012 - 12:16 AM

I only had one dowel pin, I don't know if I mentioned I bought this car from a used car dealer, who got an engine from a junkyard to put in the car because the original one had overheated. But I think there are supposed to be two, each found on either the flywheel housing or transmission

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After a day of angry shaking and jerking, I finally got her on

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I noticed that bumping the breaker on the crank pulley, as opposed to turning it, helped them slide together more quickly

There's not as much space in the bay anymore! :D

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Edited by ll77, 15 July 2012 - 01:16 AM.


#58 bratman18

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Posted 15 July 2012 - 07:35 AM

Just for future reference, it's a lot easier to remove the whole power steering pump with lines attached. There are 3 12mm bolts behind the power steering pulley, you just stick a deep socket through the holes in the pulley and remove the pump and swing the entire assembly off to the side.

#59 ll77

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Posted 15 July 2012 - 11:47 PM

Just for future reference, it's a lot easier to remove the whole power steering pump with lines attached. There are 3 12mm bolts behind the power steering pulley, you just stick a deep socket through the holes in the pulley and remove the pump and swing the entire assembly off to the side.


Thanks, I didn't know that. Hopefully I won't be needing to do anything else anytime soon though :burnout:

I'll have to put off making my full post on today's work, I have a test tomorrow and I've spent all weekend working on my car!

I have 2 questions:

1. Where is this ground off the harness supposed to hook up to?

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2. After putting the engine mount nuts on, the FSM reads:

"Be sure to tighten front rubber cushion mounting bolt in the innermost elliptical hole in the crossmember" I see an elliptical hole, but I see no bolt. Is it important?

Expect the finishing touches posted tomorrow!:cool:

#60 ll77

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Posted 16 July 2012 - 01:36 PM

Bad times guys, bad times. First start up, and immediately there was a loud, deafening clacking noise, also water was already coming out of the tailpipe. Is this a terrible, terrible sign? sigh.. :(

I didn't mention that the machine shop mixed up my hydraulic valve adjusters... could that be it?

Edited by ll77, 16 July 2012 - 01:46 PM.


#61 tractor pole

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Posted 16 July 2012 - 02:01 PM

Bad times guys, bad times. First start up, and immediately there was a loud, deafening clacking noise, also water was already coming out of the tailpipe. Is this a terrible, terrible sign? sigh.. :(

I didn't mention that the machine shop mixed up my hydraulic valve adjusters... could that be it?


as far as the HLA's, they take some time to pump up, mine took about 20 minutes at idle and then a "spirited" 5 mile drive then all quiet.

could the water be residual from before the rebuild?
possibly a leaking intake manifold gasket?

Ben

#62 ll77

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Posted 16 July 2012 - 02:33 PM

OK that makes me feel a little better, I'll try warming up and driving when I get back from class. Thanks for the input.

#63 ll77

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Posted 16 July 2012 - 02:39 PM

Also, I ended up hooking up the harness ground wire to an alternator bracket bolt, I didnt know where it was supposed to go. Please let me know if that was ok, I know someone knows on here!

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#64 ll77

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Posted 16 July 2012 - 06:31 PM

Let me put it another way, could this be the water pipe ground? Please people? I don't want to drive it without getting this sorted out! I don't want to sound naggy, but this is killing me! Thanks!

#65 tractor pole

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Posted 16 July 2012 - 07:10 PM

I hooked mine up to the water pipe bracket. worked fine.

Ben

#66 ll77

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Posted 16 July 2012 - 07:51 PM

I hooked mine up to the water pipe bracket. worked fine.

Ben


You are my savior, sir. Thanks:D

#67 RXJ

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Posted 16 July 2012 - 08:09 PM

Bad times guys, bad times. First start up, and immediately there was a loud, deafening clacking noise, also water was already coming out of the tailpipe. Is this a terrible, terrible sign? sigh.. :(


I meant to tell you to expect the clacking...mine lasted about 15 minutes.. wasn't happy to say the least....all's quiet and smooth now...I've read the same with others here...just saw the post about the ground but think you got that figured out and I'd have to look in the car to see what I did...too late..
report back...hope it works out

#68 ll77

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Posted 16 July 2012 - 09:00 PM

I meant to tell you to expect the clacking...mine lasted about 15 minutes.. wasn't happy to say the least....all's quiet and smooth now...I've read the same with others here...just saw the post about the ground but think you got that figured out and I'd have to look in the car to see what I did...too late..
report back...hope it works out


I am so relieved! Thanks! Please do let me know, my buddy says he remembers it went on one of the lower alternator bracket bolts, but I just checked and the ring doesn't fit there.

And Tractor Pole, are you sure you aren't thinking about the water pipe ground? I already have one ground from the frame there..

Thanks for the help guys!

#69 tractor pole

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Posted 16 July 2012 - 09:42 PM

I am so relieved! Thanks! Please do let me know, my buddy says he remembers it went on one of the lower alternator bracket bolts, but I just checked and the ring doesn't fit there.

And Tractor Pole, are you sure you aren't thinking about the water pipe ground? I already have one ground from the frame there..

Thanks for the help guys!


I couldn't remember exactly where it went so I put it on there.
no ill effects.:popcorn:

#70 ll77

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Posted 17 July 2012 - 12:52 AM

I couldn't remember exactly where it went so I put it on there.
no ill effects.:popcorn:


Gotcha, that's what I ended up going with.

Great news guys, I fed her coolant for some time, and about 20 mins in the noise had already gone away. There's significantly less water coming from the tail pipe. I took my parents to the grocery store on the other side of the island, and she drove beautifully. Success for the time being! :headbang:

Ok, I've been pretty disorganized, so it'll take a while before all the posts come together.

Don't be a loser like me and wait until the exhaust is already on to put the engine mount nuts on. since my torque wrench was too big to fit between the nut and the exhaust pipe, I gave them my best approximation of 27-49 ft/lbs

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Install the anti-pitch bar, the larger side of the bar goes to the body side. torque figures are: body side:27-49 ft/lbs, engine side: 33-40 ft/lbs

do the heater hoses

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Put the fuel line bracket back on the intake manifold (I now realize it would have been better to put it on along with the intake manifold). The vent line goes in the furthest place on the bracket

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Then hook up the fuel feed, return and vent lines, I had them all labeled

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Now put spark wires 2 and 4 over the hill holder (sorry about bad pic, I just wanted to show how the wires could be carried up without running into the hill holder)

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Brake booster vacuum line

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water pipe grounds as we've established, I put one on each water pipe bolt

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SPFI harness connectors

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Distributor connector (it's the lone white connector)

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plug in the hi tension lead (reused pic, plug it in to the coil)

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Alternator/ AC bracket bolt positions

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position the PCV hose over the A/c hose as shown

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flip the alternator/ a/c assembly onto the lower bracket and put on the top intake manifold bolt. swing the alternator up and tighten the upper alternator bolt

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Then get the bolt at the side and the 2 bolts that come up from the bottom

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Then you can swing the alternator back down and temporarily put on the alternator adjusting bolt.


To be continued!

Edited by ll77, 17 July 2012 - 12:59 AM.


#71 ll77

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Posted 18 July 2012 - 10:30 PM

Hey sorry guys, I've been trying to catch up with schoolwork lately.

So then I fit on my belt, I had to unbolt whatever was on top of the a/c compressor from the 2 bolts to get it on

this is an old pic I used for reference
(I only have one belt, I don't have a a/c tensioner pulley)

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I made sure to line it up with the alternator pulley

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then I took a wrench like MilesFox does and pried against the alternator bracket to put tension on the alternator, "tight but not too tight"

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tighten the adjusting bolt on the bottom (oops radiator's already on hehe)

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looking fit



Then I hooked on the throttle cable to the throttle body

I unhooked the intake boot and hose to have more space

unthread the first nut on the cable and put it in the bracket so that there is a nut in front of the bracket and the other behind it.

I backed up about 2/3rds on the cable side nut, then tightened the engine side nut down so that the cable was tight on the bracket, for some reason I can't find my pics of this. I'll add them later

I pulled the metal piece up against the springs tension and fit the cable into the slot, then aligned the cable with the space in the circular piece, then pushed the metal cylinder in its place

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redo the intake boot and hose



Then I installed the radiator, there are two rubber boots on the bottom that it seats into 2 holes in the frame of the car in, make sure it's seated on the holes before fastening it from the top 2 bolts.

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Then I plugged in the lower hose to the water pipe

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Then hook up the thermoswitch connector and fan connector (the blue and white connectors)

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Edited by ll77, 18 July 2012 - 10:36 PM.


#72 ll77

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Posted 30 July 2012 - 10:36 PM

Sorry I've been neglecting my thread. Getting wrapped up in life, you know how it is.

Then install the y pipe, first from the 2 springed bolts (I used a tire to hold the pipe)

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Then I got a lift from the jack

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Then we fit him on the hanger like so

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line up the hole with the thread and bolt it on

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then I used some hi temp RTV on the new exhaust gaskets

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then slap it on the head and line everything up

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secure it (I used my jack to support it up VERY VERY carefully so as to not crush the pipe) and bolt it together (18-22 ft/lbs)

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connect the o2 sensor plug

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then the p/s lines go under the intake, around the oil pipe and under the upper radiator hose and bolt it on by the brackets

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and connect the lines

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then we do the upper radiator hose, intake hose, clip the charcoal canister in, and put the hose from it into the frame from underneath the car

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then we do the 4wd vacuum hose next to the passengers shock tower

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bolt the fan shroud on the radiator in this position, by 3 bolts

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then you see this, align the fan's more inner holes with the water pump studs (I had a photo with these holes marked on the first post)

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it was a real pain to attempt tightening the nuts with a 10mm wrench from the top of the car, worked much better from the bottom.

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then we install the battery, add oil and coolant and we're ready to rumble!

As mentioned before, there might be a loud clacking when the engine starts up due to the hydraulic lash adjusters not being pumped up yet, but it goes away. I remember that was pretty horrifying. :eek:

it would be good to take a timing light to adjust the ignition timing, but I've been a lazy bum about the car lately :slobber: I made marks to align the distributor before I removed it, so I have a good approximation of proper ignition timing. I'll get around to timing it sooner or later.

Sorry again about the delay guys, I'm 99% sure I missed some things, please let me know so I can edit! Thanks guys, I really don't think I could have done this all by myself. She still runs like a dream! No more water out the tail pipe at all! Ultimate Subaru is the best!

Edited by ll77, 30 July 2012 - 10:44 PM.


#73 RXJ

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Posted 01 August 2012 - 06:23 PM

Good Job...that was a big effort and many will be using as a reference..I know I will when I wanna know what's up with this, that and the other thing..
glad you got her running smoothly

#74 roadsubiedog

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Posted 28 August 2012 - 11:12 PM

excellent, excellent thread. i enjoyed reading the whole thing and learned a lot.

#75 Dinky26

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 11:07 PM

Wow, awesome!!! Wish I would have run on to this one before I tore mine apart........ugh......oh well now I have this to refer to so I can get it back together! Thank You muchly.




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