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1987 Brat 4WD, 4spDR
Posted 28 March 2004 - 10:14 AM
This is my first post, so is a bit drawn out. I just joined the list last week. I bought my 87 Brat in 1993 with ~63K original miles. It has seen little use since the clutch started slipping @ early 90K mileage; has ~99.5K original miles now. We still drive it for taking stuff to the recycling center or the dogs to the vet, but I want to get it fixed up so I can start using it more routinely. Structurally/mechanically, it is in excellent condition.
My first mission is to get the clutch fixed and I had decided to get it done professionally at a Sub dealership, but when I heard it was at or above $700 for the job, I started rethinking. Then I joined this board. Heard about it from someone I sold 3 of my 1991 Legacy Factory service manuals (our 1991 Legacy AWD SW was totalled in 1993 in Harrisburg, PA), a few months ago. This is an excellent list with plenty of encouraging type information for the do-it-your-selfers. So now I want to attempt the replacement myself. One advantage is that I have a daily driver and so do not care if the job takes me more than just a few days.
I also owned a 1981 2WD 2DR hatchback GL that I bought at 16K miles in 1987, drove for almost 145K miles prior to selling it in 1999. The car is still running from what I hear. I have the "How to keep your Subaru alive" (through 1984 models) book by Larry Owens and it was invaluable in helping me keep the 1981 car in tip top mechanical condition. I hear there is an updated version of this book available now (through 1988). However, there are instructions included in the older version of the book on how to remove the Engine and I am assuming the instructions for the 1984 Brat included will apply to the 1987 Brat.
I would appreciate any advice, pep talk etc. as I have done nothing beyond driveshaft replacements, valve adjustments (HB only), brakes, water pump/radiator removal & installation, oil pump replacements, starters, alternators, distributors etc. between the 3 Subaru's (very little to the Legacy and the Brat). I am willing to purchase the monster engine hoist that Sam's Club sells for ~$170 to make my job easier. Plus I believe that Subaru prices are the best for a Clutch kit. After the clutch repair, there are several other items I want to tackle also and will keep in touch with the board for advice and/or updates.
Posted 28 March 2004 - 11:32 AM
Posted 19 April 2004 - 08:24 PM
I bought my engine hoist and am getting ready to order clutch parts now. For the clutch, I want to go with genuine Subaru parts. So far, Subaruparts.com has given us the best prices (vs. the Tallahassee and Valdosta dealerships), ~$150 for the clutch kit - includes the disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing and pilot bearing. I will also order the front (may not replace) and rear (will replace) crankshaft seals. While the engine is out, I will also retorque the head bolts and also replace the valve cover gaskets (I have) and the oil pan gasket (need to order). I do not have the special Subaru head bolt socket - will a crow foot wrench work? Anything else that I need to replace? Finally, is Subaruparts.com a Subaru dealer and what kind of reputation do they have amonst the list members? Quite a few questions to answer!
Posted 19 April 2004 - 08:36 PM
Oh, and while you are at it, order the two little spring clips for the throwout bearing. They are cheap and well worth using new.
Posted 19 April 2004 - 08:56 PM
Posted 20 April 2004 - 03:46 AM
Posted 30 April 2004 - 06:14 PM
I ordered a bunch of parts from Subaruparts.com on 4/21/04. They sent me a confirmation, but silence since then. I have tried to call them several times, but noone answers, I guess they are busy and do not have too many folks on the phones etc. Also sent them an e-mail two days ago, but no response. I am getting a bit impatient. Of course, my card just has the charge amount authorized, not posted. I was planning on replacing the clutch this weekend, but will be a no-go until my parts come in. I may try and pull the motor out though!
Posted 01 May 2004 - 06:49 AM
Posted 01 May 2004 - 10:30 AM
sounds like you have a good handle on mechanics.. and if you take your time and remember where everything goes, i'm sure the job will go easy for you..
good idea on the crank seals, bad idea on the head bolts.. ya might do the oil pump and water pump while its out too, its a bit easier..
Posted 01 May 2004 - 11:13 AM
might as well replace the rear crank seal since the motor is out.
try this to remove the flywheel:
use a 10 or 12mm wrench, box end on a pp bolt(once it's removed) and butt the open end against the engine stud this will allow you to remove or torque the flywheel mounting bolts.
if you dont have a torque wrench, tighten down by hand (snug with a wrench, but no torque on it.)then torque 1/4 turn. same for pp bolts
Posted 01 May 2004 - 12:58 PM
Removed the battery, radiator, and anti-pitch rod. (If you have air cond, it will be more difficult to get the evaporator? out too. - to have room to slide motor forward into front grill) Unbolted the exhausts, dropped them a bit and rested on a wood block. Removed two engine mount bolts, removed starter. Removed the other 3 transmission bolts (4th came out with starter).
Used floor jack to jack up motor . Used tie-down to pull motor to front of engine bay and hold it. The motor pulls away from the transmission (wiggle), and rests on the floor jack being held forward with the tie down. I think I may have also had to free up fuel lines etc for more slack. You can use the engine hoist in same manner. If you remove fuel lines,just pull motor out for easiest access, but not really necessary.
Then remove pressure plate bolts and assembly comes out. The motor turns pretty easy to get to all bolts. Flywheel can unbolt for re-surfacing. It is tight, but enough room to wrench and get everything out and back in. Throw-out bearing assembly, and clutch lever too.
It all went back in using the plastic clutch alignment tool too. What a sweet deal - about 6-8 hour total for me. Thanks USMB.
Posted 01 May 2004 - 01:12 PM
Posted 01 May 2004 - 03:56 PM
I didn't see any talk of changing the rear main seal while the engine/trans are apart, but you should do that too.
Posted 15 May 2004 - 08:38 AM
Appreciate all the information. I received all my parts from Subaruparts.com on Tuesday, so I am getting ready to take the engine out today. Purchased a $2 Motormite clutch alignment tool from Advance yesterday. It is part number 14529 and I hope it is the right one. The list of things to do include the following, so far:
- Clutch (both bearings, 2-clips, pressure plate and disc).
- Rear seal - this is just an orange colored 0-ring sort of thing. Amazing that such a part does so much. I also have the front seal, will inspect it closely - may not replace.
- Clutch cable, once everything goes back together. I have had this cable since the early 90's. Bought it as a spare part from Bianchi Subaru in Monroeville, PA for my 1981 GL 2 door H/B. It is still sealed.
- Resurface flywheel
- Radiator check up at a shop. This one is also applicable to the automatic cars based on the presence of cooler inlet/outlet. Hopefully, the shop can seal it, it does have a slight leak to it. Or may replace it altogether - they cost @$140 with lifetime warranty.
- Inspect/replace water pump.
- Not sure about torquing head bolts based on F/B here - we will see. Has anyone used a crowfoot wrench (17 mm) for this? One caution is that you have to loosen the intake manifold bolts slightly prior to doing this. I did this at @75 -100K miles on my 2 door H/B when I was at GA Tech in Atlanta in the 1987 to 1989 timeframe. Had borrowed the special socket from Boomershine Subaru then.
- Oil pan gasket.
- Valve cover gaskets.
- The oil pump was replaced @75K miles and should be fine. The truck has @99K miles now.
- All bypass heater hoses.
- I have tried (albeit half heartedly to locate the O2 sensor on my truck, but without success. The truck has to have one and I want to replace it. Hopefully with the motor removed, I will locate it.
- I am not sure whether the transmission needs to be supported on jacks, with the engine out. I have adequate jacks and jack stands, so not a problem.
Posted 16 May 2004 - 12:33 AM
Took the engine out today. Since this was the first time, it took some effort but all went well. Will try to get the flywheel resurfaced tomorrow if I can, otherwise will be Monday. Will get a new water pump and radiator - the old rad. is shot. A couple of questions that I need some help with however:
- My 1987 Brat does not have an O2 sensor - this is wierd! Did some Brat's not include one? Even my old 1981 2WD H/B had one.
- There is no clutch return spring on my Brat. I guess Brat's with the hill holder system do not have a clutch return spring.
Posted 23 May 2004 - 06:52 AM
At the onset I wish to thank this board for the valuable information provided, that enabled me to undertake the clutch replacement effort. This is the list of items done to my Brat so far:
- Clutch (pressure plate, pilot and throwout bearings and disc) replaced.
- Replaced clutch cable. Did not replace the acc. cable, it appeared fine.
- 2. Rear main seal and orange o-ring replaced.
- Flywheel resurfaced.
- Oil pan gasket.
- Valve cover gaskets.
- No torqueing of head bolts. Did not have the special socket and a crowfoot wrench did not work. However, I have special ordered the socket from Kent Moore. It is on back order and expected on 7/21/04. So will tackle this effort later.
- Thermostat (Robert Shaw Gen II, 180 degree). I had bought this from Autozone years ago, but never got around to installing it.
- New water pump.
- New radiator. Will flush DIW/Prestone super cleaner and and fill with 50/50 Texaco orange coolant/DIW this morning.
- Front cranshaft seal.
Posted 23 May 2004 - 08:50 AM
You saved yourself some serious money! NICE JOB!
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