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80 gl passing light


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39 replies to this topic

#1 mikaleda

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Posted 21 June 2012 - 08:19 PM

i have a 1980 subaru gl with the passing light in the middle of the grill under the subaru emblem. i traced the wires coming out of the light every thing is plugged in but the light doesn't work. i tried messing with the switch the other day and part of it fell out of the dash. so i took the wires and hooked them together and checked still nothing. i have checked there is power going to the switch. what i want to know is does anyone know what could be causing it to malfunction? I'm not in any hurry to fix this just want to make it work.

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Edited by mikaleda, 21 June 2012 - 09:13 PM.


#2 natext6

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Posted 21 June 2012 - 09:44 PM

Is there any kind of control unit for the light? I had some issues with the headlights in my xt, and there were a few things that helped me narrow down the possibilities.

Firstly, have you tried manually opening the light? See if it will close, even if it wont open. In the end it turned out that the wire responsible for "down" had come out of the harness that was under my steering column, so when I manually closed the lights, they would go up, but not down again, even if you've traced the wires, this could help with finding the issue.

Have you tried un-plugging the battery then resetting the position? Could it be that the car already thinks that the light is open? If there is a control unit of some description, unplugging the battery, resetting the light position, and then re-attaching the battery should reset the system.

Past that, I'd look at the motors, of something wrong at the lamp side of everything.

I don't have any experience with passing lights myself, but I now know a rather pointless amount about flip-up headlights. Hope I've helped in some way!

#3 a2labs

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Posted 21 June 2012 - 10:45 PM

Please forgive my ignorance, as I've never seen this passing light before, but I have seen the third headlight in the middle, is that the same thing? And is it solely operated by a switch on the dash? If it operates the same way as retractable headlights do, (as natext6 is saying) there are usually contacts built into the retractor motor that tells a very simple logic circuit what position the cover/headlight is in. Those contacts could be dirty or faulty. Please describe the switch with as much detail as possible, it would also be helpful to know how many wires are in the harness coming from the light and from the switch. I've fixed a lot of retractables on 80's Toyota's and
I'd like to learn about this!

EDIT: I checked some other threads here and the wiring is simpler than I thought: the switch should have three wires, a 12v supply IN, a switched 12v OUT to the light/cover unit, and a ground for the backlight in the switch. The same wiring configuration is used on a common lighted 3 prong 2 position switch sold at auto parts stores. The switched 12v out powers the passing light assembly, that one wire activates the light and raises the cover.

The motor that raises the cover has a limiter switch in it that tells the motor to stop when it reaches the open position, and holds it open as long as there is 12v supply. But there has to be a dedicated 12v supply to the motor unit, so that when the switch on the dash is turned off, the motor closes the cover. Another limiter switch tells the motor when to stop, and it is effectively in standby mode at that point.

I'd still like to know how many wires are in the motor/light side harness, I'd be happy to provide a diagram based on that. It could be done with as few 3 wires: ground, 12v constant, and 12v signal in from the switch on the dash. Some aftermarket driving lights include a standard 4 prong relay, you'd wire both them and the passing light the same way. Hope this helps! If I'm wrong on any of this, please correct me.

Edited by a2labs, 22 June 2012 - 02:08 AM.


#4 mikaleda

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Posted 22 June 2012 - 09:36 AM

cool those are good things to look into. the wiring harness that comes out of this light has six wires, i tried to flip the light open and it wouldn't move. the switch under the dash had a simple three wire connection with a negative for a light that makes me think there is a relay somewhere. i also unplugged the wiring harness that runs to this light i hooked a ground to the black wire and since the rest were different i hooked a positive to the rest, all but one did nothing at all no spark no draw. the one that did do something just sparked like it had a draw (i checked the fuse afterward). when i was hooking power directly to the motor that flips up the lid and the light, nothing happened. i will try and get some pics of the working parts of the light like the servo motor and light.

and yes i have tried resetting by removing negative terminal nothing happened.

and here is the info you wanted A2LABS yes the switch has three wires two positives one hot one not and a ground hooked to a light that comes on when the switch has power. the harness coming off of the light has six wires (i will get some pics of that too). i will also look for the relay under the dash and see what i can find.

Edited by mikaleda, 22 June 2012 - 09:49 AM.


#5 mikaleda

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Posted 22 June 2012 - 10:13 AM

ok here is some more pic they may not be the best my camera died and i had to use my phone on the last three
light
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light
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wiring harness
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wiring harness
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servo motor
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that is the best i can do for now. i may be putting in a new radiator soon so if i do i will get some better pics.

Edited by mikaleda, 22 June 2012 - 10:16 AM.


#6 a2labs

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Posted 23 June 2012 - 12:54 AM

Ok, good info and pics mikaleda, thanks. The Toyota's from the 80's that I'm familiar with also used 6 wires at the headlight/motor side, so I'm 99% sure the wiring is the same. I'd even go so far as to say that most retractable headlight circuits are the same, the only differences being bells-and-whistles type stuff like a dedicated retract switch independent of the headlight switch, a retract indicator light, headlight washers wired into the up side of the retract circuit, etc.

I'm really really busy with work and life in general right now, as I'm getting ready to move across the country in the next week or so, but I will dig thru my manuals and find a schematic to post. If anyone has a Haynes manual for this car, the schematic would be in there as well. Those old Haynes manuals were pretty decent, they sure don't make 'em like they used to! And again, any schematic from that vintage car has a very good chance of being the same.

See if you can trace the wires by color back to where they come from. There might be 2 grounds, so see if you can locate any grounds to chassis and make sure they have nice clean connections. You should always verify grounds first. Often times an electrical problem is just a dirty ground. All the retract relays I've seen have been metal jobs under the hood, then again, never seen a soob with retracts up close.

#7 turbosubarubrat

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Posted 23 June 2012 - 01:23 AM

i've got the factory subaru repair manual that is for the 1600/1800:headbang: and it talks about the 3 eye ill try to read up on it and get back to u

#8 turbosubarubrat

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Posted 23 June 2012 - 01:53 AM

ok it said to turn on lighting switch and passing lamp switch, then see if headlamp or parking light when lighting switch is turned to 2nd stage, if not 25 A fuse is blown, if yes see if indicator lamp of passing light swich lights, see if 15 a fuse is blown, see if voltage exceeds 10v in G lead of of 3-p connector, see if voltage exceeds 10v in GR lead of 6-p of relay, see if voltage exceeds 10v in GR lead on harness side 6-p connector of passing lamp, if yes motor is defective.

sorry if thats complicated thats how its wrote in the book but it would help if this had arrows:lol:
i can take a picture of diagram if needed:cool:

#9 mikaleda

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Posted 23 June 2012 - 08:43 AM

ok it said to turn on lighting switch and passing lamp switch, then see if headlamp or parking light when lighting switch is turned to 2nd stage, if not 25 A fuse is blown, if yes see if indicator lamp of passing light swich lights, see if 15 a fuse is blown, see if voltage exceeds 10v in G lead of of 3-p connector, see if voltage exceeds 10v in GR lead of 6-p of relay, see if voltage exceeds 10v in GR lead on harness side 6-p connector of passing lamp, if yes motor is defective.

sorry if thats complicated thats how its wrote in the book but it would help if this had arrows:lol:
i can take a picture of diagram if needed:cool:

cool! i understand perfectly what it is talking about thanks for the info much appreciated :headbang:

#10 mikaleda

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Posted 23 June 2012 - 08:46 AM

Ok, good info and pics mikaleda, thanks. The Toyota's from the 80's that I'm familiar with also used 6 wires at the headlight/motor side, so I'm 99% sure the wiring is the same. I'd even go so far as to say that most retractable headlight circuits are the same, the only differences being bells-and-whistles type stuff like a dedicated retract switch independent of the headlight switch, a retract indicator light, headlight washers wired into the up side of the retract circuit, etc.

I'm really really busy with work and life in general right now, as I'm getting ready to move across the country in the next week or so, but I will dig thru my manuals and find a schematic to post. If anyone has a Haynes manual for this car, the schematic would be in there as well. Those old Haynes manuals were pretty decent, they sure don't make 'em like they used to! And again, any schematic from that vintage car has a very good chance of being the same.

See if you can trace the wires by color back to where they come from. There might be 2 grounds, so see if you can locate any grounds to chassis and make sure they have nice clean connections. You should always verify grounds first. Often times an electrical problem is just a dirty ground. All the retract relays I've seen have been metal jobs under the hood, then again, never seen a soob with retracts up close.

thanks, and i am not worried about fixing it right off the bat. i just put a c.v. in and am having problems with brakes, thinking of upgrading them so i will be busy for a while anyway.:)

#11 Gloyale

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Posted 23 June 2012 - 12:23 PM

It's noit just the switch. there is a relay too. Located near the battery.

If it's bad.....there is a write up in the old USRM about using a DPDT switch, or a DPDT relay run by the factory switch.

with switch:
http://www.indysworl...ter_light_w.htm

with relay:
http://www.indysworl...rlamp-relay.pdf

#12 mikaleda

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Posted 23 June 2012 - 04:57 PM

yes there is a relay i have found it, it was unplugged when i found it. i need to look into it some more when i plugged in the relay i started my car (since i had been messing with the lights for awhile) and when i did it ran fine for a minuet but then my tach and volt meter started acting wierd and my car started running funny. i unplugged the relay and put in a new fuse now it runs good. i need to figure out why that happened before i mess with that relay anymore.

#13 VaporTrail

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Posted 24 June 2012 - 06:23 AM

the spots where the wires attach to the motor sometimes corrode badly and break off there.

I have had one where the case for the motor actually cracked too, and all kinds of funny stuff happened....

#14 mikaleda

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Posted 24 June 2012 - 08:22 AM

i'll have to look into that when i change the radiator.

#15 mikaleda

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 12:09 PM

It was badly corded wires and also the arm that opens the lid was froze up. I took it apart cleaned the corrosion and put back together. now I need to know how to wire the limiter switch the wires were broke off when I pulled it out. Does any one have a wiring diagram for the third eye? I need to know where the red/black the green/white and green wires go, they are the three wires that go to the limiter switch.

#16 ivans imports

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 12:12 PM

there is a control unit by the battery that controls the light have some of that control unit still kicken i think

#17 ivans imports

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 12:13 PM

and i have 15 of thoose center lamps in a box

#18 mikaleda

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 01:23 PM

Nothing wrong with the lamp or switch I just need to know how to re solder the the three wires down on the motor hang on a second I will get a pic and upload it

#19 mikaleda

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 02:14 PM

Pic Posted Image
I need to know where to solder the red black, green white, and the green wires onto this part. Ivan could you please look at one of you center lights and tell me what goes where

#20 mikaleda

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 02:59 PM

Pic of the center lamp
Posted Image

#21 turbosubarubrat

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 05:32 PM

i can once i take a look at my third eye

#22 mikaleda

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 06:59 PM

Nice that would be awesome. Once I get the soldering done I can rewire the relay as gloyal said because it seems to be malfunctioning to.

#23 turbosubarubrat

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 08:01 PM

ok here it is
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#24 mikaleda

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 08:19 PM

Thank you!!

#25 88wacaroo

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 08:22 PM

ok here it is
Posted Image


:popcorn::drunk: Alright now I can help here I"m pretty sure I"ll be right back! I need more:drunk:+:popcorn: +smokes! Be back after this BRIEF intermission ;)




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