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The Definitive Rear e-Brake Retrofit Solution!

Rear Park Brake e Brake EA82 JesZeK Retrofit Honda Nissan Disc Brakes Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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9 replies to this topic

#1 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 30 June 2012 - 06:02 AM

THE DEFINITIVE REAR E-BRAKE RETROFIT SOLUTION!


 This writeup is intended for the '84 ~ '94 Subaru GL / Loyale \ EA82 Models.

"e-Brake" and "Park Brake" means the Same for this writeup.

There are other Ways to swap a Rear e-Brake, but Usually they include expensive parts, from Legacy or Impreza, even parts from the XT6, etc ... Here I want to explain an Easier and pretty inexpensive Way to do a Reliable Retrofit with Amazing Results.  :D pay attention to the Important Notes...

 

 

Warning! - Use this information at your Own Risk

 

_______________________________________________________________________________________________

 


A Brief Introduction:

Those of us who own a Subaru that came with Front e-Brake and always desired to retrofit a reliable Rear e-Brake system, but was afraid about the Parts Needed, the works to be done and the Results; here I will do my Best to Guide you in this Step by Step Photo Procedure to do it Right & Easy. :D

Different reasons might have each one to do such Retrofitting; mine is that the Front e-Brake on my Subaru BumbleBeast after all these years and thousands of miles of Rude use, became too rusty & worn that leaked brake fluid; no matter if that was just rebuilt...
So I Got rid of the Front e-Brake as you can see pics, ~► Here, from Post Nº 61.


First Part: Your Subaru Must have Rear Disc Brakes.

My Subaru "BumbleBeast" already had the Rear Disc Brakes from a Turbo Loyale, as you can see, ~► Here; Having the Rear Disc Brakes makes this Retrofit much easier, because if your subie Still has rear Drum Brakes, you'll need to Find a good Set of Rear Disc Brakes for your Model, Prior to do this Conversion.


Second Part: Background Information.

I've read & Heard about Rear e-Brake conversions, using Nissan's parts, usually because both Nissan & Subaru used Brake Parts made by the same Japanese "Tokiko" Brand, but that parts aren't exactly a Direct fit and you must do certain works to make them Work; as you can see & Read, ~► Here, and ~► Here, but also I've heard that the e-Brake on Nissans with Rear Disc Brakes, is Weak because isn't too well designed...

So, Forget about Nissan parts!


Third part: How I Found the Donor Car & Parts Used.


So, I Went to Hunt for Parts to do my Rear e-Brake Retrofit at our local Junk Yards (Called here: "Yonkers" more info and photos ~► Here) and miraculously I Found in one of those, a Subaru 1986 Turbo Sedan that still had its Rear Disc Brakes intact -beside some Rust & Dirt- also many other useful pieces & Parts. :brow:

I Took out a Rear Trail arm from it, to do many Tests with its Disc Brake, in order to Find the Proper Calipers that could Fit there easy, also without any Risk to the Security on the Road.

I Tested Nissan 200 and 240 Calipers there but I Don't liked the way they fit, because was somehow a Little "Forced" and the 4WD subies will have problems with the e-Brake Cable levers on the Nissan's calipers, 'cos they must be in the way of the Rear Axles...


Long time ago, I Read that Certain Honda Accords with Rear Disc Brakes, has very similar calipers to the Subaru ones; ~► Here; So I Started to Search within Hondas with Rear Disc Brakes.

 

 

_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________


 

Found the Perfect Donor in a 1992 Honda Accord with Rear Disc Brakes, that Looked like This one...


 

DonorCar.jpg

 

...Removed one of its Rear trail Arms too

 

and I Started to figure out how to Fit the Honda's Rear Caliper onto the Subaru's Rear Disc.


 

This is the Subaru's Rear Trail Arm:


 

01-SUBARURearDiskBrake.jpg

 

 

This is the Honda's Rear Trail Arm:

 

02-HONDARearDiskBrake.jpg


 

As Written above, Subaru uses the Japanese brand "Tokiko" for their Brake parts, while Honda Uses the also Japanese brand "Nisin" for their Brake Parts; but Despite that both Rear Calipers Looked Very Similar, they're Very Different at the Same Time; because the Honda's "Nisin" has built-in e-Brake and a Special protective Metallic Cover; while the Subaru's "Tokiko" has Nothing like That.

The Honda's "Nisin" e-Brake System Looks very much Better Designed & Protected than the Nissan's "Tokiko" Design for Sure.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 16 April 2013 - 02:39 PM.
Mispelled word, fixed.


#2 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 30 June 2012 - 06:15 AM

This is the Subaru Caliper:


03-SubaruCaliper.jpg


...This is the Honda Caliper:


04-HondaCaliper.jpg


After many Tests done, I found:

that the Honda's Caliper only Needs the Subaru Bracket to Fit on the Subaru's rear Disc Brake!


05-HondaCaliperwithSubaruBracket.jpg


The Brake Pads to be used are the Subaru ones.


06-TestingHondaCaliperinSubaruDisk.jpg


But the Pads must use the Honda's Latches.


And this is the Results, The "Mixed" Calipers:


07-myNewMixedCalipers.jpg


This is the Way I Purchased them from the "Yonker"

Also I Purchased the Honda's e-Brake Lever:



07b-myNewHandLever.jpg


Because it Pulls from the Rear, the Subaru one Pulls from the Front.

Then after I Grab those Mixed Calipers, 
and a Whole Lot of

 

Other Subaru Parts, that can be seen in this...



ABunchofParts1.jpg


ABunchofParts2.jpg


...Pictures, I Went Home and Started to Work in my BumbleBeast to do the Swap.

 

:burnout:


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 06 April 2013 - 10:32 PM.


#3 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 30 June 2012 - 06:21 AM

This is How the Honda Calipers Looked Like onto my BumbleBeast's Rear Disc Brakes:

On the Right Rear Side:

08-TestingHondaCaliperinMYSubaruDisk2.jp

 


On the Left Rear Side:

09-TestingHondaCaliperinMYSubaruDisk.jpg


Perfect!

 

:clap:

 

Even the Flexible Lines that came with the Honda Calipers, fitted Perfectly my Subie's Lines.  

 

So I Started to Deeply Clean those Calipers before Definitively Mounting them.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 06 April 2013 - 10:40 PM.


#4 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 30 June 2012 - 06:42 AM

Fourth Part: The Interior Works.

This includes to Install the Honda Lever and the Cables.


Important Note: about the Cables: Forget about the Honda's ones and the Subie's ones.  Why? ...

- The Subie's ones are Designed to work to the Front, so they're Short and doesn't worth to work on trying to re-route them.

- The Honda's ones are way Too Long...

I made the Mistake of Grab the Honda's ones and buy them from the Local Junk Yard, just to throw them away... they're very much Longer than needed; So, I had to ask to a Local Shop to make a Pair of Custom Cables with the Proper Lenght for my Subie.  But Prior of That, I Must have to Install the Honda Lever and then Take the Measurements for the Cables.



Just Removed the Center Console:


10-InteriorWorks1.jpg


Testing the Honda Lever:

11-InteriorWorks2.jpg


Placing the Lever:

12-InteriorWorks3.jpg

 

.
It Fits on the Front Hole for the Screw on the Subie's Body, but you'll Need to Drill a New Hole for the Rear Screw. I Drilled it and Reinforced the Subie's Structure from Below the Floor, so no body could see the Reinforcement. The Reinforcement consists in a metal plate with a Hole of the Same size of the Drilled one, to work as a Welded Washer.
 

 

Next I Tested the Center Console and... Surprise!!!... it Fits with the Honda's Lever!


Testing it with the Lever all the Way Down:

13-InteriorWorks4-EventheConsoleWorks1.j


and All the Way Up:

14-InteriorWorks5-EventheConsoleWorks2.j


The Console does Not interfere with the New Lever Movements.

 

 

Important Note: you'll Need to do a small Cut of around an inch in the Plastic at the Lower portion of the Center Console, where the Lever sits, to let the New Lever to reach all the Way Down, as you can see in the Followin' Photo:



SmallCut.jpg
 


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 07 April 2013 - 01:23 AM.


#5 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 30 June 2012 - 06:55 AM

To do the Interior Works, you'll Need to Move the Floor Mat to Make enough Space to Work on that area, either Removing the Seats to Remove the Floor Mat, or Cutting it a Little to move it faster & Easier. I Choosed to do a Small Cut on the Floor Mat. ;)

 
 

Next, you will need to Drill another Two holes in the Subie's Floor, to pass both Cables:


15-InteriorWorks6-HolesfortheCables1.jpg


 

Important Note: The Cables work on the Transmission Tunnel in the 2WD Models without any problem, my Friend Numbchux wrote to me about the 4WD Models: 
 

... cutting holes, and having the cables drop down through the tunnel will cause clearance issues with the driveshaft.

That's how I did it in my Loyale too, and the driveshaft would rub on the cables under hard accel. The next time I do it, I will run the cable straight back, and through the bulkhead under the back seat.

 
 

Once the Lever is Installed, pass the Cables and use its Rubber endings to cover the Holes.



16-InteriorWorks6-HolesfortheCables2.jpg


Then Connect the Wires from the Honda Lever's Sensor to the Subaru's Wires

for the "Park Brake Light" in order to let it Work Properly,

See the Following Diagram for easy Understanding how to do that:



Sensor.jpg

 



HPIM3177.jpg
 



ClosedOpenings.jpg


Also you can see on that Photo, how I Closed the Unused openings

 

for the Old front e-Brake Cables, using Bolts.  :D



Finally, you'll Need to Place a Pair of 3/8" (10 mm) U-Bolt Clamps,

 

one for each Cable, on their Metallic endings...



16-InteriorWorks7-Cableu-BoltClamps.jpg


...to Hold them in Place while the Lever is Pulled or Released.

This requires another Four Holes on the Subie's Floor, which I Reinforced from below,

with a Single Metal Plate with matching holes, welded to the Subie's Body. (it works as a Washer)



HPIM3157.jpg

 

 

I Placed a screw on the Unused hole on the Floor, that was for the Subaru Lever, to seal the floor, then I smeared and Covered all the openings and the Screws with Clear Silicone to Completely Seal the Floor Against Water, Dust and even Road Noise. Also I smeared and covered with Clear Silicone on the Same Places & Screws from Under The Car, to somehow Rustproof them.

 


You can See that the Floor mat could be Placed Again, Hiding the Cut...


HPIM3170.jpg


...the Floor Mat Also Hides Perfectly the Cables.



The Cutted Mat part is Held in its place by the Screw that Holds the Fixed Portion of the Seat Belts on the Floor.
 

 

I Kindly suggest to cover the Cables with some thick plastic bag wrap, before placing the Floor mat, to avoid damage to the Cables if someone spill Liquids on that floor mat area, But let it Loose enough to let the Cables Move Freely. Then Place the Floor Mat over it and now you can Reinstall the Center Console back on its Place.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 07 April 2013 - 12:43 AM.
To add more information.


#6 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 30 June 2012 - 07:10 AM

The thin metallic plate shaped like an "U" that is intended for holding the Center Console to the Floor in its place, does sit below the new Rear e-Brake Cables, so they pass above it without touching it, if the New Honda Lever Handle is installed in the middle of the area; even you can remove that "U" plate if you want to install another car's center console.


But if you install the Lever Handle to the Right side, as the original Subaru lever Handle comes factory (Needed to let the use the Original Subaru Center Console) and as I did, the Cables still will pass above the base of the said "U" plate without touching it, but one of those cables can rub a little on one of the thin metal reinforcements of that "U" plate, the one that is on the Right side.

My first Solution was, to cut a Little from that "U" plate's reinforcements, in order to gain enough clearance to let the Cables pass without rubbing the Plate...

 

As you can see in the Photo Below:

CuttedMetalUPlate.jpg

 


But then, I noticed that the very thin Metal of the "U" plate (looked like 1/16") felt weakSo I decided to obtain an equal lenght of thicker metal plate and bent it, to make a new and stronger "U" plate. The Metal Plate I obtained is 1/4" thick, so it does Not need any reinforcements  :) 

 

 

You can see both Metal "U" Plates together, in the Followin' photo:

MetalPlateforBaseofCenterConsole.jpg

 


I Painted it with Yellow Rustoleum ...  :D ... here you can see it already fixed in its Place:

(also you can see the Smeared Clear Silicone over the Clamps)

HPIM3481.jpg

 


Now the Cables pass far enough from the new metallic "U" plate I Made, Hard to see clear on the Picture due to the Camera's angle, but there are More than 1/4" Clearance, as you can see in the Next Photo:


 

CablesClearance1.jpg

 


Something great is that even with the Center Console fixed in its Place, the Cables doesn't Touch it:

CablesClearance2.jpg


They have more than enough clearance there, so No more Modifications were Needed. 

 

 

Important Note:  If you do your own "U" Plate, you must bent it certain degrees to the same inclination of the original one: The arms on the "U" does have certain inclination from their Base, they're not straight up.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 07 April 2013 - 01:16 AM.


#7 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 30 June 2012 - 07:16 AM

Fifth Part: To Install the Cleaned Calipers, Paint 'em and Route the Cables.

So, after the Deep Cleansing of the Calipers, I installed them on my "BumbleBeast" and then I proceeded to Paint them with Engine (Ceramic) Enamel of 500º F Temp, not only to Protect them but also to gain better Looks.



This is the Paint I Purchased at our Local NAPA Store:

17-PaintforCalipers.jpg

 


 

After a Couple of Coats on the Right Side:

18-Paintworks1.jpg


 


same on the Left Side:

19-Paintworks2.jpg

 



Then I Connected the Cables:

20-Paintworks3.jpg


 


Even the Front Calipers had their couple of Fresh paint Coatings:

(you can see the Deleted e-Brake from them)

21-Paintworks4-EventheFrontCalipers.jpg


 

 


This is How they Finally ended Looking, already installed,
 

Right Side from Behind, you can see the Cable route:

22-AlreadyinstalledRight.jpg


 

 


Left Side from Behind:

22-AlreadyinstalledLeft.jpg


 


These are the New (Custom) Cables and How I Routed them:

23-CableRouting1.jpg

 

 


24-CableRouting2.jpg


Remember to Avoid touching the Exhaust piping, the cables Must run far from it to avoid melt their covers.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 07 April 2013 - 01:52 AM.


#8 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 30 June 2012 - 07:29 AM

Sixth Part: Detailing & Finishing.

Going again to the interior, here are Some Pictures of the Center console back in its Place, and the Honda Lever conected to the Cables in its Place; everything works awesome:D
 
 


This is a Wooden piece I Made for the center console, to Susbsitute the old Plastic one, 

 

which was cracked, it just needs to be Painted like the rest of the Dashboard:

WoodenConsole1.jpg


So, my BumbleBeast's center console now Looks like This:

25-InteriorWorks-Done1.jpg


I Placed the Shift Knob I Grab from the Junk Yard (along the other pieces);

 

instead the Metallic one I Had, because it got Dirty. 

 

You can see that the Honda Lever has the Proper Space to Work:



25-InteriorWorks-Done2.jpg

But also it Really Feels "Natural" for the Car.  

 

 

The Last thing I Need to do to the interior is...

25-InteriorWorks-Done3.jpg


...to Hide the Opening behind the Honda Lever on the Subie's Center Console.

 

 

So, I Cutted parts of that unused Plastic leftovers, 

 

which has the same Colour & Texture than the Center console...

CuttedPlastic.jpg

 

 


...and Glued them with Epoxi Glue to the Center Console's openings, as Follows:

CenterConsole1.jpg


So now, the Center Console Looks like This: 

CenterConsole2.jpg

 

 

 

Important Note: The center console's rear, mount on a pair of Screws one on each side, to the above mentioned "U" plate, Now you can not use the center console's Bottom Screw to the Subie's Floor, because it will interfere with the Cables and their Movements; But that Screw isn't really needed.

As I Said in the end of the Above Post Nº 5:

 

I Kindly suggest to cover the Cables with some thick plastic bag wrap, before placing the Floor mat, to avoid damage to the Cables if someone spill Liquids on that floor mat area, But let it Loose enough to let the Cables Move Freely. Then Place the Floor Mat over it and now you can Reinstall the Center Console back on its Place.

 

I obtained a Semi-Transparent (with Green Tint) 3/16" Vinyl and used it to Cover the Cables:


VinylUnderneath.jpg



 

Then I Placed the Floor Mat above it:

Beforeinstalltheconsole.jpg


 


Finally, I Installed the Modified Center Console with Screws to the New "U" Plate:

Consoleinplace2.jpg


 


And here is the Final Look, with all the Job done:  ;)

Consoleinplace3.jpg


bananadance.gif
 

The Cables Move Freely and nobody could Notice them, Hiding underneath the Vinyl and the Floor Mat; only a trained eye could Notice the Different Park Brake Lever Handle and the Minor Modifications done to the Center Console.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 07 April 2013 - 02:13 AM.
again, mispelled word; fixed.


#9 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 30 June 2012 - 07:42 AM

Seventh (and Last) Part: To Drain the Old Brake Fluid from the System.

 

You'll need to do a complete Bleeding to the System & Recharge it with Fresh Fluid, following the proper Cross Pattern: First bleed the Rear Wheel which is Farther from the Master Cylinder, next the Front Wheel from the other side (Following a Diagonal basis) Then the other Rear Wheel & Finish with the other front Wheel.

Test the Pressure on the Complete Brake System; Remember: Those good ol' subies' brake systems tend to be Tricky, so you might need to repeat this bleeding procedure twice, in order to have it in good Working conditions.

Use the Best Brake Fluid you can, DOT 3 or 4; avoid DOT 5 because it isn't Compatible backwards with the older ones, and older seals.

Finally do a Test Ride to "Feel" the Brakes Behaviour, then if everything is Normal, test your Subie's New Rear e-Brake System. 


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 07 April 2013 - 02:25 AM.


#10 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 09 August 2012 - 04:25 PM

I'm Sure that the Off-Roading crowd will want to do this Rear e-Brake Retrofit that I've done, while Keeping the Front e-Brake; both with independent Levers, side by side, next to each other Without the center console...  ;) ...as a Great Slippng Control.

 

Update: A whole year of daily use has passed since I finished this Retrofitting, and my BumbleBeast Drives & Feels Natural, with a Good working Rear e-Brake.

 

My Experience: This Swap is Easier than it looks like and the Results are Awesome; the New Rear e-Brake from Honda is More than enough for the Subaru; it only needs less than Half lever up to Hold Strong the Car and it also Stops it!

Is a Strong Rear e-Brake... not like the Average one found on common Rear Disc Brakes.

I Hope this Writeup be Helpful... Feel Free to Comment my Writeups on my Subaru "BumbleBeast" Thread, 

Click on my signature below to reach it.


Kind Regards.  :burnout:


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 07 April 2013 - 02:32 AM.
To add the Update.






Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: Rear, Park Brake, e Brake, EA82, JesZeK, Retrofit, Honda, Nissan, Disc Brakes, Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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