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4.444 x 1.592 x 3.545 = ~25:1


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39 replies to this topic

#26 Ibreakstuff

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Posted 19 November 2012 - 06:54 PM

First off, I should have found this thread before I posted up my ft4wd dr/dccd thread lol. You already had all the answers I needed here lol. Excellent post!

A friend of mine raced a few stage rally seasons with an obx front in a fwd GC transmission, left foot braking definitely helps transfer power. They can be rebuilt fairly easy with upgraded bolts and washers. Using a dremel to clean up some of the cheap manufacturing flaws can go a long way as well. They are just too cheap not to tinker with. Being a straight quaife knock off they do the job pretty well, its the cheap production that causes problems. If you run one right out of the box expect some metal sludge on your drain plug.

Here's a decent post on DI with info on rebuilding an obx.. loren also installs a beefy vlsd center as well (interesting read even if you don't want to go with an obx):
http://www.dirtyimpr...ead.php?t=17129

Edited by Ibreakstuff, 19 November 2012 - 07:01 PM.


#27 Numbchux

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Posted 14 January 2013 - 08:41 PM

^That's interesting. That's a good idea to spend some of your own time to finish the production of them correctly.



I had a day off today, with nothing pressing on the agenda to get done. Wanted to make it out to the shop to get some SVX parts, but it didn't happen, probably before work on Wednesday...

Anyway, I spent some time on my transmissions. I decided to rock the 4.444, 1.2 and Carbonetic in the Brat. I bought some Anaerobic gasket maker and set to putting it all together today. Took a few tries to get the right order. Getting everything lined up on the input shaft was a bit of a pain (locating pin on the middle bearing, hi-lo shifter pivot, forward bearing flange, low range oil slinger). I forgot where the oil slinger went, thank goodness for the exploded diagrams of European models on www.opposedforces.com ! Then I got it in there, and realized it was also going to have clearance issues with the larger ring gear, so I had to pull it back off and grind it down a bit.


Then I remembered why I was excited to use the 1.6 case. The speedo cable base crumbled in the 1.2 case. So if I'm going to have a working speedo with that case, I need to figure out how to disassemble that shaft and clean out the remains of that plastic base, and replace the seal in there.



I think I'll put the PT4WD 1.6/3.9 case back together with some 25 spline axle stubs for a 5MT swap into my XT6. I should have everything I need to do it (If I can figure out which ring gear is right.....lots of transmissions have been parted out on my work bench :-p ).

#28 mcgarvey2001

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Posted 19 August 2013 - 06:09 PM

What are the options for the tail section? In particular I'm wondering about the D/R transfer/low range shifter rod and an XT6 transfer section. In the PT4WD the rod engages the rear drive shaft in the transfer section and and passes clear through to engage the low range. In the RX it apparently just passes through on it's way to the low range. On the XT6 box there is a casting for it on the back, I'm not sure if it would need to be milled out or if there is a plug; there doesn't seem to be a matching casting on the front. Can the XT6 case be modified for Gloyale's version (and how are the oil seals accomplished?) or does the FT4WD locking center fit into the PT4WD transfer section, or perhaps the rod is routed externally to the transfer section?

 

Any updates on how these things are working out?

 

Thanks,

Mike



#29 el_freddo

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Posted 30 August 2013 - 07:03 AM

Mike,  You can make up an external rod to operate the low range - otherwise it's milling/drilling time and work out how to seal it and what sort of rod to use to pass through it.

This is what I'm up to on my FT4wd gearbox conversion.  And no, you can't use the PT4wd rear casing, the centre diff just doesn't fit.  Here's a pic of the two gearboxes, FT4wd in foreground, PT4wd in the background:



And the PT4wd in the foreground, FT4wd in the background:



Hope this helps.

 

And if anyone wants to ship me a good centre diff out of one of these EA FT4wd gearboxes I'd be most appreciative.

Cheers

Bennie



#30 Uberoo

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Posted 21 October 2013 - 01:38 PM

There was a thread a long time ago about putting 4.11 gears into a DR 5 speed.Anyone know where that went?



#31 el_freddo

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Posted 25 October 2013 - 07:56 AM

No idea where that went, but it would involve finding one of these FT4wd dual range gearboxes first - then swap the Ring and Pinion gears/centre LSD for the EJ 4.111:1 Ring and pinion with the matching EJ centre diff and rear housing.

 

Then you'll have a dual range 4.111:1 diff ratio'd AWD Dual Range gearbox.  

Clear as mud?

Cheers

Bennie

PS - should I mention I'm still chasing a FT4wd centre diff in good condition???



#32 Uberoo

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Posted 25 October 2013 - 01:30 PM

no 4.11 with the 1.59 lo.



#33 el_freddo

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 02:24 AM

Here's a couple - ignore that they're EJ gearboxes but the principal is the same as what you're after:

 

Outback 1.59:1 low range conversion with 4.11 ratio diffs

Forester 1.59:1 low range conversion with 4.11 ratio diffs

 

Both do the same thing but in different ways ;)

Regards

Bennie



#34 Gloyale

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 11:14 AM

no 4.11 with the 1.59 lo.

 

I built one using EA D/R front halves and an EJ lower shaft and tailsection.

 

Turned material off the Hi-Lo shift collar, and ground the edge off the 4.11 ring gear.

 

Worked well except EA and EJ gearsets have different profiles to the teeth.

 

Blew up second gear after 2-3K miles.

 

 

That's why the FT4wd EA gearbox is needed to complete the swap.

 

Recipe:

 

EA D/R case and upper shaft, with FT4wd gears pressed onto it.

 

4.11 EJ lower shaft with FT4wd gears pressed onto it.

 

FT4wd difflock or AWD rear section will work.  Use appropriate spacer on the pinion shaft for which ever you want to use.



#35 Uberoo

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 03:55 PM

so once the transmission was working for that short time did you notice much of an improvement?


Edited by Uberoo, 28 October 2013 - 03:59 PM.


#36 Gloyale

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 08:05 PM

so once the transmission was working for that short time did you notice much of an improvement?

4.11 low was nice.

 

AWD viscous center not so much.



#37 Uberoo

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 12:43 AM

So if it was done right with the FT parts and center lock would it be worth it with 27-29" tires?My math tells me that 4.11 vs 3.90 is ~5%.Is it worth the roughly $150 investment(3 transmissions at $50 each)?

 

 

looking at it some more 5% better gearing would be like running a 2" smaller tire.27's would feel like a 25" tire...

 

I might have to find some transmissions.


Edited by Uberoo, 29 October 2013 - 12:58 AM.


#38 el_freddo

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 04:41 AM

If you're going with 29 inch tyres and can get the pinion shaft cut and shut I'd recommend the 4.44:1 ratio diff - but you've got to shave more from the ring gear to fit the L series low range than you do with the 4.111:1 diff ratio.  But it's still strong enough for the job.

Just putting it out there.

Cheers

Bennie



#39 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 10:20 AM

So if it was done right with the FT parts and center lock would it be worth it with 27-29" tires?My math tells me that 4.11 vs 3.90 is ~5%.Is it worth the roughly $150 investment(3 transmissions at $50 each)?

 

 

looking at it some more 5% better gearing would be like running a 2" smaller tire.27's would feel like a 25" tire...

 

I might have to find some transmissions.

27-9 tires go with a EJ with the Low Tork Delta Cams  its less work for similar results  with the stock 3.9DR



#40 Uberoo

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 11:44 AM

I was planning on running 27-29" tires with a EJ22 not sure about torque cams though because I normally use the entire RPM band.Sometimes its nice to creep along.






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