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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Components of an EA82 lift


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7 replies to this topic

#1 Cyfun

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Posted 06 July 2012 - 03:55 PM

I've been running on a homemade 2" strut lift, and am now working on making a 4", but of course this means an assload of body lift blocks. I've searched and searched, and found plenty of pictures of SJR lifts and other homemade lifts, but haven't seen anything that really lists all the components needed.

So here's a picture of someone's lift. I didn't use SJR's cause I'm sure they don't want to help people steal their ideas. If anyone can help me identify each of these parts and where they go, or if I'm missing anything, me luv u long time.

1) Front strut lifts
2) Engine crossmember drop blocks (i'm guessing)
3) ??? transmission crossmember drop blocks ???
4) ??? part of the radius arm drop blocks ???
5) ??? other part of the radius arm drop blocks ???
6) ???
7) ???
8) ??? rear suspension K-member drop blocks ???
9) Rear strut lift brackets


Posted Image

#2 Prwa101

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Posted 06 July 2012 - 07:02 PM

http://www.ultimates...ad.php?t=133738

The picture in here is more of what your going to want. And as far as I know and have built my self, 4,5,6 you don't need. I'm pretty sure.

Crossmember blocks.
Strut blocks
Tranny blocks
Diff plate drop
Diff hanger drop
Rear strut lift

This is all sjr used for his 4" lift. 3" frame blocks, 4" at struts.

And that picture you have looks like a 3/2" lift.
Hope this helps.

#3 Cyfun

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Posted 07 July 2012 - 12:59 AM

Gotcha, was looking at that pic too. But what about blocks for the rear K-member? I made my 4" rear strut brackets, but I can't get the rear control arm to pivot down far enough to install the damn things.

#4 Prwa101

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Posted 07 July 2012 - 04:11 PM

Gotcha, was looking at that pic too. But what about blocks for the rear K-member? I made my 4" rear strut brackets, but I can't get the rear control arm to pivot down far enough to install the damn things.


For the 4" I depending on what size tire your going to want to run. You'll want to drop that 2" If you want a little less rubbing room for larger tires. Putting the 4" on the front strut moves the tire forward, and dropping that puts it back, kinda like the radioes rod exstention.

Hahah! Dude it's a pain, same problem for me, what I did was take a long 2x4 stuck it on top of the hub and jumped on it pushing it down, till it'd go into place where I could get one bolt in. Lots of WD40 helps.

http://www.ultimates...t=110173&page=3 look through this guys build, shows everything. I think that's a 6" lift though but same consept.
Good luck
Prwa101

#5 Cyfun

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Posted 07 July 2012 - 04:25 PM

Thanks for the link.

I think I need to lower my rear K-member by about two inches, since I've been running it at a two inch strut lift just fine. I just ordered up some 4runner front struts and Honda Accord springs to replace my stock rear struts, and since they're stiffer, my plan is to change the upper mount so it's angled much sharper, thus giving me more travel and a smoother ride. If I have more travel, that will help immensely with my articulation issues.

Funny that SJR's 4" lift doesn't appear to lower the rear K-member at all.

#6 Cyfun

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Posted 11 July 2012 - 05:31 AM

I'm still curious as to what some of these extra pieces are, though. Here's that pic from T'subaru's post, let's see if we can identify all this crap. I left out the diff plate, though, as I already have that done. My main concern is #8, cause I have no friggin clue.

Edit: Think I figured it out.

1) Front strut lifts
2) Rear K-member blocks, rear parts
3) Rear strut lift brackets
4) Trans crossmember blocks
5) Engine crossmember blocks
6) Part of front radius rod blocks
7) Other part of front radius rod blocks
8) Rear K-member blocks, front parts

Posted Image

Edited by Cyfun, 11 July 2012 - 06:54 AM.


#7 Prwa101

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Posted 11 July 2012 - 08:30 AM

6 or 7 one of thouse is another tranz block. I'm thinkin the more sturdy looking one. And 8 I'm not completely sure but it may be a driveline hanger drop. Not needed. This is a 6" lift keep in minde. And once you start working on it, it'll make more Sence what's all needed. Look through my build, I've done everything but the front struts getting plates cut out now for it and just got a 20' section of 4" dia pipe from work. Are you going to make your own?
For the trans in this case there's 4 blocks, to on each side, there a step in the frame, so it's not a continuous block.

http://www.ultimates...ad.php?t=127240 the rear xmember is only needed depending the size of you tires, it dosnt change much. It's kinda more of an 6" that you'll need that on. Idk up to you though, more work or less haha. Or just do it last a d see if you really want to.

#8 Cyfun

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Posted 11 July 2012 - 05:33 PM

After tearing more into the rear cross member, realized I was a dumbash and what all the parts are for. I updated the list, and plan on making a more detailed write-up on each component of the lift and its significance.

I know I could probably get away without lowering the rear crossmember and just muscling the rear trailing arms down, but I have something unusual planned. I'm currently replacing the rear struts with 4runner struts and Accord springs, and then I will be relocating either the top or bottom strut mount so that it's angled sharper. That will give me more travel and a smoother ride, and with any luck help with my articulation issues.

I'd prefer to shift the upper strut mount, but there really isn't any room unless I tear out that bump stop bracing in the car's body. So my other idea is to cut out the bump stop plate on the trailing arm, then weld a new bracket for the bottom of the strut up an inch or two. We shall see what happens.

Edited by Cyfun, 11 July 2012 - 05:38 PM.





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