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valve clearance adjustment without special tool
Posted 29 March 2004 - 01:58 PM
Thanks very much
Posted 01 April 2004 - 10:32 AM
Posted 01 April 2004 - 11:31 AM
How hard is it ?? Are the shims easily identified ? Did the dealer have 'em all in stock ?..etc.....
Posted 01 April 2004 - 12:02 PM
Yes, the dealer had all the shims I needed in stock. Basically here is what you do:
(1) Remove the valve covers (and all the stuff in the way)
(2) Remove the right side timing belt cover. (if you want to use this to aid in positioning of the valves according to the Haynes book. Saves a little time, but probably not worth it, yoiu can simply observe the valves directly.
(3) Turn the crank pully until some valves are at the lowest point on a cam.
(4) Measure the clearance between the cam bottom and lifter shim with a flat feeler gauge.
(5) Repeat steps 3 and 4 untill you have measured all 16 valves.
(6) The desired clearances are .20 mm intake and .25 mm exhaust. Any gap that
differs by more than about .02 mm should be reshimed. Go through your list
and see which ones exceed this.
(7) Remove the shims on the lifters for these valves only. I did this by using a large screwdriver to piviot against a rough part of the cam and push the lifter
bucket down by its edge with a twisting motion. The spring tension is not too strong this way. While holding the bucket is down, pop out the shim by pushing a very small screwdrived in the little side gap designed for this. Push it out of the way to make it fall to the ground, or grab it with needle nose pliers.
This method seems to work very well. You need to use a stubby screwdriver for the intakes to work from under the cam. The exhausts are a little easier to remove. (If there is more interest in this I will post greater details).
(8) Identify each shim by writing the valve number it came from on the back in marker.
(9) Go inside and make coffee. Measure the thickness of each shim with a micrometer, and based on this, calculate the desired thickness of the new shim that would be required to bring the clearance to desired clearance (either .20mm or .25mm).
(10) See if you can reuse any of the existing shims you are removing, and go buy the rest at the dealer (6.38 each).
To make things easier, I suggest converting feeler gauge measurements to mm right away and working entirely in mm rather than inches. You need resolution better than 0.001 inches idealy, so measure carefully even to the point of saying the clearance is in between guage sizes, i.e., 0.0095, etc. Remember that a single thousandth of an inch (0.001) is 2.5 shim sizes! There are 60 shims available in increments of 0.01mm.
Posted 01 April 2004 - 01:52 PM
Thanks for posting your experience here. You mentioned replacing 9 of your shims... how far out of spec were they? And in what direction (less or more than spec)? Thanks.
I posted about this a while back, looking for info on the valve clearance adjustment, since I have 102,xxx miles on my '97 and it's due in the near future. I couldn't get consistent info from three local Subie dealers regarding the procedure, or cost of it, so I kind of just gave up for the time being.
Thanks for any further details you could provide.
Posted 01 April 2004 - 02:18 PM
Most of the clearances were smaller than spec, but 1 or 2 were larger. I think this engine must be in very good condition. The worst shim was off by about .002 inches (5 shim sizes). The engine has 114K miles. The worst exhaust valve had decreased from its ideal .010 to .008. I suppose it was a waste of time to do this job given how little the clearances were off, but you never know until you look, and it is recommended at 100K. I'll check again at 250K
Posted 02 April 2004 - 12:33 PM
What makes it even better is when someone like rjp98outlook takes the time to respond in such detail.
Hats off !!
Posted 02 April 2004 - 03:12 PM
FWIW, I have my car in an indy shop right now, they're doing the wheel bearings on the FL wheel. I asked them about the valve clearance service, they said they don't bother doing it, he felt it not necessary. I think I'll have it done if the engine's out anyway, but probably not otherwise. On the other hand, I would be paying someone else to do this, these things are not DIY for me, I stick to easy stuff.
Posted 03 April 2004 - 09:41 AM
Posted 05 April 2004 - 08:17 AM
Posted 05 August 2009 - 02:31 PM
If i had wanted a diesel I would have bought one.
Anyhow, I have a little noise on start up (maybe loose valve clearence?) a little rough idle at times but all in all I don't miss the 2.5 block.
Note: if I had an adapter plate to bolt the 2.5 intake on the 99 -2.2 heads I would have used them. They are a beautiful design, and easy to adjust. Easy I like.
I will try the adjustment,without the tool.
I too have found these forums priceless.
thanks to all who post.
Posted 08 June 2012 - 10:51 AM
Posted 08 June 2012 - 10:56 AM
right - the valves get tighter with age.
i think 150,000+ miles is where clearances get too tight and burn exhaust valves - that's the biggest problem with these motors the exhaust valves.
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