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EA82 running hot


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44 replies to this topic

#1 opus

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Posted 22 July 2012 - 10:25 PM

Kinda at a dead lock here. Its running 3/4 the way up the gauge all of a sudden. Wife burst a hose, I replaced it, replaced thermostat as well, did a 185 I think it was. Temp on the thermostat housing is about 195. No bubbles. The radiator is about 20 degrees hotter on the drivers side, I think it was around 220ish. Thinking about yanking the radiator tomorrow and back flushing it.

Ideas?

#2 djellum

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Posted 22 July 2012 - 10:41 PM

id try the thermostat first, since you were just messing with it. the old one could have just been a really low temp one and the 185 runs at 3/4.

might also want to check the water pump, the return hose on the drivers side comes out of it I believe.

#3 opus

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Posted 22 July 2012 - 10:49 PM

To my knowledge there are only 2 thermostats you can get, 195 and 180 or 185, I forget. The water pump goes round and round, no leaks. Not much that can go wrong with it.

#4 Prwa101

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Posted 22 July 2012 - 10:51 PM

Start with the cheapest and easiest, thurmastat like he said, then go from there. It's between a water pump and radiator. You can some times pull the radiator out and try and blow through it, if it goes easy it's prolly good, or if it's hard to blow through id get a new one. A radiator shop can test it too. Up to you though. I personly would start replacing those things untill it goes away. Can't hurt knowing you have something new and more reliable in you car :)

But sole good advice fix at ASAP, unless you want a head gaslet Jon added on that too. ;) it's what happend to my fiancés car 100 miles from home, radiator would push any water through it. :Flame: that was a good week haha.

Good luck man.

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#5 The FNG

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Posted 22 July 2012 - 10:51 PM

Spend the extra few bucks and the oem from the dealership. Trust me. Do some searching in the forum and find my thread on the differences. It is worth the time and extra few bucks.

#6 opus

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Posted 22 July 2012 - 10:56 PM

Thermostat was changed the other day, thats not it. No dealer around, no radiator shop. I will pull the radiator tomorrow and see how it handles a flush. Just checking to be sure I didnt miss anything.

#7 Prwa101

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Posted 22 July 2012 - 11:02 PM

Rockauto.com is a really good place to buy parts. I havnt gon wrong there. Gates is a good brand to buy stuff from. But only of you have a week or so to wait for the parts to come in the mail.

Yeah it's between the thurmastat and radiator. In my old red ea82 I was too cheap to buy a new anything because it was about to blow up anytime. So I pulled the thurmastat and ran it with out to keep more flow. (I don't advice it)

But a going bad radiator will some times push fluid up into the fill coolent box when its warm and has a lot of pressure in there.


Prwa AAE

#8 The FNG

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Posted 22 July 2012 - 11:03 PM

I have had issues with napa and car quest thermostats not working. For some reason, there is an issue with them in these cars, best of luck to you though. I also had the radiator issue before I got a good oem thermostat.

#9 mikaleda

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Posted 24 July 2012 - 01:52 PM

stant xact makes a good subaru thermostat they are the same as oem i use them in my subies

#10 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 24 July 2012 - 02:00 PM

...I will pull the radiator tomorrow and see how it handles a flush...


I Kindly suggest you to use a Chemical Radiator flush additive, (those Helps to disolve Gum & Barnish the old coolant might have been building up on the Rad.) Prior to pull the Radiator and see if that Helps.

Like these ones:
http://www.amazon.co... radiator flush

Kind Regards.

#11 el_freddo

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Posted 25 July 2012 - 07:10 AM

Thermostat was changed the other day, thats not it. No dealer around, no radiator shop. I will pull the radiator tomorrow and see how it handles a flush. Just checking to be sure I didnt miss anything.


I'll add to what Loyal 2.7 Turbo has said above: My educated guess would point to the radiator being blocked by 50% or more. I've seen and experienced EA82s over heat due to a blocked radiator that's only had a back flush ever done to it. Have it checked out for corrosion, if any is present get a new radiator! If it's all good remove the end tank, get a piece of small steel or wire and clean out each individual channel in the radiator. Over here we call this "rodding the radiator" - the mechanical action will un block a radiator much better than a back flush will!

Then replace the end tank - I've seen a mate use a set of rachet tie down straps to get a real good bit of pressure squeezing the whole radiator together so he got a good seal on the end tank he had removed.

A new radiator also gives you the piece of mind that it'll be doing what it does the best it possibly can. If you continue to have over heating issues from here it'd point to a head gasket :(

Cheers

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#12 opus

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Posted 25 July 2012 - 09:50 AM

Radiator seems to have good flow. Going to have to drive it today and see.

#13 opus

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Posted 27 July 2012 - 06:27 PM

Its 90 outside. I drove 25 miles and temp gauge is on the top side of 1/2 way. Temp readings are as follows:

Thermostat housing - 190
Temp sending unit - 200
Passenger side radiator tank - 170
Drivers side radiator tank - 205

Passenger side hose is like the tanks, about 30 cooler than drivers side.

I'm stumped.

#14 djellum

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Posted 28 July 2012 - 12:09 AM

doesn't seem to bad, my gauge reads much the same.

cold night, lots of airflow, etc, runs about 25% up the gauge.

hot ambient, traffic, etc, mines at 50% or maybe a touch higher.

when you scan the drivers side, are you scanning where the trans fluid cooler is? Some cars have the trans cooler even though you have a manual. you might be scanning the air, or trans fluid, in there instead of the water.

#15 opus

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Posted 28 July 2012 - 12:41 AM

when you scan the drivers side, are you scanning where the trans fluid cooler is? Some cars have the trans cooler even though you have a manual. you might be scanning the air, or trans fluid, in there instead of the water.


Good point. I kinda get the same degree spread on the rubber hoses. Its surely been hotter than normal here, not sure.

#16 mikaleda

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Posted 28 July 2012 - 01:25 PM

Its 90 outside. I drove 25 miles and temp gauge is on the top side of 1/2 way. Temp readings are as follows:

Thermostat housing - 190
Temp sending unit - 200
Passenger side radiator tank - 170
Drivers side radiator tank - 205

Passenger side hose is like the tanks, about 30 cooler than drivers side.

I'm stumped.

you need a new radiator or rod out the tubes in the one you have. also flush your system you might have a blockage in your block

Edited by mikaleda, 28 July 2012 - 01:27 PM.


#17 opus

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Posted 28 July 2012 - 01:46 PM

I dont thing so, the radiator flow is very good with a garden hose in it.

#18 mikaleda

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Posted 28 July 2012 - 09:00 PM

then it is probably clogged in the block some where, or your water pump is starting to fail but i doubt it.

#19 opus

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Posted 29 July 2012 - 06:10 PM

I'm thinking head gasket or a blockage. Do I pull the engine and do HG's or pull the engine and replace it with one sitting in the shop? :) It needs dist changed and manifold. Ugh!

Actually, I am still not convinced on what it is. Radiator is clean, water pump doesnt leak. After 40 miles, you stop and it boils over....while the temp is still behaving itself. Stumped.....

Edited by opus, 29 July 2012 - 06:18 PM.


#20 Prwa101

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Posted 29 July 2012 - 06:17 PM

Eh I'd say it's a water pump dude. Try that first before you jump into HGs. It's a pretty simple replacement. If your rad seems good.

#21 opus

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Posted 29 July 2012 - 06:19 PM

How do you figure water pump? The impeller either goes around or it doesnt. Also, it leaks or it doesnt. Nothing else can go wrong with it.

#22 djellum

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Posted 29 July 2012 - 06:35 PM

if for whatever reason it isnt spinning, couldnt that cause this problem? I havent looked inside a sub water pump but fi the fins are bolted on and loose or the shaft is broken it might not be circulating right.

I would unhook the return hose and point it to a bucket. turn the car on and feed the radiator from a hose so it doesnt run completely dry. see if your getting good flow from the block/pump. I dont have a frame of reference for how much it should flow, but it might tell you something.

I know this sounds simple, but have you checked the belt? they dont always squeel when they slip and yours might not be turning the pump sometimes.

#23 opus

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Posted 29 July 2012 - 06:57 PM

Eh, might be thinking differently now.

Video:
https://docs.google....TGdpTjU3bTVlRWc

#24 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 29 July 2012 - 07:18 PM

I saw your Video... you are running the Timing Belts without the Covers, like my BumbleBeast.

Somehow, too much bubbles and foam on the Coolant mix doesn't let me see well if it is doing whirlpools...


#25 opus

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Posted 29 July 2012 - 07:20 PM



Somehow, too much bubbles and foam on the Coolant mix doesn't let me see well if it is doing whirlpools...


Plenty of whirlpooling!




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