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Steering knuckle and drive axle
Posted 29 March 2004 - 11:11 PM
Posted 29 March 2004 - 11:21 PM
1. Put the axle nut on just enough to protect the threads for abuse so you don't screw them up.
2. Smack that with a sledge hammer hard until it starts to pop out then once it starts to move, gentle hit it until it you hit the nut.
3. Remove the nut and finish hittin it out but do it carefully so you don't bum your threads.
I also found its easy to do it once you remove the other side of the axle from the tranny.
Hopes this helps:D
Posted 30 March 2004 - 12:22 AM
Posted 30 March 2004 - 01:27 AM
Posted 30 March 2004 - 11:46 AM
Posted 30 March 2004 - 01:07 PM
Posted 30 March 2004 - 10:59 PM
Posted 30 March 2004 - 11:42 PM
I replaced a front axle on my gl-10 today. After pulling the DOJ from the transmission, I was able to pull the other end out of the bearings in the steering knuckle. The book said not to hit it with a hammer, as it would damage the bearings. I had to wiggle it around quite a bit, but I got it out in a few minutes.
Posted 31 March 2004 - 12:33 AM
Posted 31 March 2004 - 01:06 AM
Posted 31 March 2004 - 12:47 PM
Posted 31 March 2004 - 01:25 PM
It's for pulling the stub axle back through the bearings and knuckle.
So is this tool for removing or installing the axle?
Posted 31 March 2004 - 05:53 PM
"God gave us thumbs to use tools creatively" "Tim Taylor
:The cost of the right tool will eventuallly be made up by what you save on band-aids" "Al Borlin"
Posted 31 March 2004 - 11:40 PM
Posted 01 April 2004 - 02:47 AM
I used a 6" puller from harbor freight to get the hub off. I've also heard that after removing the axle nut, you can put the wheel back on, drop the car, roll it back and forth, and then the hub should come off.
Definitely NOT a good idea. You can seriously screw up the bearings by putting weight on the hub without the castle nut on the axle.
Just hammer the old one out, put the new one on the tranny FIRST, then feed it into the hub as far as it will go. Then hammer the hub against the axle and it will come through. You shouldn't damage anything as long as it's lined up correctly when you start hammering at it. The hydraulic press that you're supposed to use does the same thing, just more gracefully...
Posted 01 April 2004 - 10:22 AM
Well let's cut to the chase. Has anyone successfully replaced the pressed in wheel bearings themselves? How do you get them out? How can you tell if they are good or bad? I have a press that I use for pressing in bicycle headsets which I think will work for getting the bearings back in but I am reluctant to do the old hammer mechanic approach to removal unless you guys give me the go ahead.
Posted 01 April 2004 - 10:46 AM
I always have better luck doing the hub end first.. and using the axle nut and a couple of long screwdrivers to pry it through.. The tranny end is real easy to do at that point... I would probably avoid beating on the hub.. but thats just me.
Just hammer the old one out, put the new one on the tranny FIRST, then feed it into the hub as far as it will go. Then hammer the hub against the axle and it will come through..
For those that are following this and have never done an axle swap before, you can see that there are many differing opinions and methods for R&R on an axle.. I recommend you try them all and see which one works for you.
Posted 01 April 2004 - 09:35 PM
Posted 02 April 2004 - 10:35 AM
I am just not ready to pull the whole steering knuckle out and the whole can of worms that opens up nor do want to punch (aka bash) out the old bearings.
Thanks for all your guys help! This board is great.
1985 GL 4WD wagon with roofracks (Thule and Yakima) and an avid skier, snowboarder, off road skateboarder and even a gas powered skateboarder! But my real passion is bicycling. Subaru Wagon and 4WD is perfect for me. Not a lot of guts but fun to drive!
Posted 15 September 2004 - 12:18 AM
I've been trying to find a thread related to this question but with no luck. What is the easiest way to separate the driveaxle assembly from the steering knuckle. It's recommended to be taken to the dealer as it requires a special tool. Last time, when I replaced the boots I had no idea of this and carefully used a sledge to reassemble. Any help would be great? I really don't want to take the whole assembly to the dealer. :-\
Driveaxle slides out of the steering knuckle. Just remove the axel nut and free the knuckle from the strut and the lower ball joint. Caution: make sure you do not shear the bolt holding the ball joint. I learned the hard way. Bolt is acting as holding pin. It has to be removed completely before you can remove the ball joint from the knuckle housing.
Make sure you are using plenty of penetrating fluid and use an impact socket and driver to remove the bolt. Back to the assembly… It is misleading in the Heynes manual. You do not need to take the whole assembly to the machine shop. The instruction is for the bearing replacement. Bearings are press fit onto the knuckle housing and you need a hydraulic press to take them out and put them in. Here is my dilemma, which way to push the bearing out whether there is an internal boss. I have not figured out the bearing yet. So if you do not need to replace the bearing then the next task is very straightforward. Good Luck…
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