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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Best stuff to clean new rotors with?


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32 replies to this topic

#26 mikaleda

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Posted 05 August 2012 - 11:35 AM

After exposure to the elements, the oily coating will disappear on its own, and is not noticeable when changing brake pads months and years later.


like they said :-p

#27 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 05 August 2012 - 12:36 PM

well if the rotors had been dripping oil i would have cleaned them, but there was so little oil on mine i didn't even mess with it and i think your ego is ahead of you there gd as soon as i put the brakes on i did a test drive and had no problem i had exceptionally good braking power i was able to lock my wheels up doing 30 so i think it worked just fine ;)


A test drive and locking up the wheels proves nothing. Cosmoline is sticky and would likely not impact braking till it heats up and it's viscosity drops. It might actually make them seem to perform well when cold.

Further - this stuff will bind with brake dust and become a sticky, nasty goo that will hold brake dust in and around your brakes and wheels. Brake dust and lubricant will form grinding compound and will chew up everything they touch.

If I did work like that I wouldn't own a shop and be trusted by hundreds of people to do this every day.

You are simply wrong. Your youth and inexperience creates a dangerous combination when coupled with critical safety components like braking systems. Learn the right way to do things or you'll pay the price someday.

GD

#28 Rooster2

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Posted 05 August 2012 - 01:10 PM

A test drive and locking up the wheels proves nothing. Cosmoline is sticky and would likely not impact braking till it heats up and it's viscosity drops. It might actually make them seem to perform well when cold.

Further - this stuff will bind with brake dust and become a sticky, nasty goo that will hold brake dust in and around your brakes and wheels. Brake dust and lubricant will form grinding compound and will chew up everything they touch.

If I did work like that I wouldn't own a shop and be trusted by hundreds of people to do this every day.

You are simply wrong. Your youth and inexperience creates a dangerous combination when coupled with critical safety components like braking systems. Learn the right way to do things or you'll pay the price someday.

GD



GD.........I think you mean well in your advise, but like posted earlier by Mikaleda......."i think your ego is ahead of you there." Instead of presenting yourself as a "know it all," on this subject, you would be better serving others here by simply offering advise in your humble opinion.

#29 mikaleda

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Posted 05 August 2012 - 01:26 PM

thank you rooster2

Edited by mikaleda, 05 August 2012 - 01:32 PM.


#30 bratman18

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Posted 05 August 2012 - 01:46 PM

Lol, it used to say "I'm an rump roast" under GeneralDisorder, which was usually quite fitting. But he is right, you really NEED to remove the oil that comes on rotors.

#31 spazomatic

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Posted 05 August 2012 - 02:33 PM

I use CRC brake clean on anything brake related, and firearms. works great!

I dont understand why you guys wouldnt bother to clean that oil off. a contaminated set of pads are not going to work as well as a set that dont have oil in them. period.
heat dissipation is the name of the game in braking, and oil on your pads can only hurt. locking them up doesnt generate much heat, but hard stops from 80mph do!
word to the wise, dont be lazy, clean your rotors. :burnout:

#32 1 Lucky Texan

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Posted 05 August 2012 - 03:07 PM

it may be that some come with a wax or something that is unlikely to interfere with pad material - dunno.

what you have or can 'get away with' is different than 'best practices'.

I clean 'em.

#33 mikaleda

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Posted 05 August 2012 - 10:05 PM

my rotors have never had any problems at all they have been on for a few months and have had no problems stopping, but mine had very little oil on them




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