54 replies to this topic

[Fairtax4me]

Don't worry about that. The Oil pan doesn't have high pressurized turbulent oil flying around inside it like the oil pump does. The constant pressure changes and volume of oil flow in the pump housing is what makes the RTV bits break off in there.
You don't have any of that in the pan. Just oil dripping back down from the heads and crank, and it runs down onto the baffle plate in the center first before it even touches the pan, so it doesn't even flow over the RTV around the edges. And if a piece breaks off it's usually big enough that the pickup screen will catch it, then it will drop to the bottom of the pan and settle in with all the other crud that calls it home down there. (And you'd be surprised what you can find living at the bottom of an oil pan)

Edited by Fairtax4me, 12 August 2012 - 11:43 PM.

[Gloyale]

"The Right Stuff"

is the best sealant i've found.

I swear by it now.

A little spendy, but worth it. Lasts a long time, easy to remove plug forms in the tips.

I like to use the "caulk gun" tubes of it, rather than the "squeeze cheese" cans.

What I really like about "The Right Stuff" it is that it adheres well to aluminum, and when an excess bead squeezes out, it stays connected. So no goobers fall out into the pump cavity, or oil pan.

Grey RTV will flake off the strings and chunks that splooge out. Even the factory subaru RTV, (like on your pump) will do that eventually. One reason you hear hydro lifter 2.2s in early legacy with lifter tick. Little chunks of RTV clog the lifter.

[Gloyale]

You don't have any of that in the pan. Just oil dripping back down from the heads and crank, and it runs down onto the baffle plate in the center first before it even touches the pan, so it doesn't even flow over the RTV around the edges.

Only Crank and rod bearing oil is above the baffle.

All the oil returning from the heads runs right over the edge of pan.

RTV will work fine for the pan......But it may leak again in 20k.

Right Stuff FTW!

[GeneralDisorder]

The Right Stuff *is* RTV. Used a lot of it in the military. From Permatex's own web site: "elastomeric formed-in-place rubber gasket makers" - which is exactly what RTV is made from. RTV stands for Room Temperature Vulcanizing....

I don't like the shelf life - has a tendency to cure in the can/tube.

Anaerobic is still better and easier to use IMO. It has infinite shelf life and there's never any waste or worry about bits of it clogging passages because it doesn't cure except between the mating surfaces.

GD

[92_rugby_subie]

Update:

Got permatex Anaerobic sealant... 11.99 for a 1.69oz tube let the sealing begin.

I also got the o-rings I needed...

Looking to bust this out quick...

Is there a timing belt write-up? Basically how to time it? I can put the belt back on exactly like I had it off... except the cams have turned now....

[Crazyeights]

Update:
Is there a timing belt write-up? Basically how to time it? I can put the belt back on exactly like I had it off... except the cams have turned now....

Look here for a timing belt write up. I am sure there are many others as well as the factory service manual.

Beer Garage Timing Belt

[92_rugby_subie]

Progress

So far today (taking breaks in between doing stuff, Im fat and its hot in that garage and Im nervous so its a sweat fest outside)
- Cleaned oil pump surfaces/exterior
- Installed front main seal
- Put bead of anaerobic sealant on oil pump (took pics like Beer Garage since I used that write-up to make sure I did it right)
- Put O-Ring on
- Installed oil pump

quite proud of myself now... just hoping I didnt eff it up.



Question: What are the other holes on the oil pump for... screws for something, and I think 1 or 2 would line up with timing belt covers... but beyond that, what are the others for?

[92_rugby_subie]

Progress for today:
Intake gaskets put on (and intake) - Im a little worried about this area... Im gonna bring in another EJ22 hopefully to make sure I dont screw things up since tomorrow is my last day to finish this if I hope to bring NED to WCSS
-Water pump on and sealed
-Cam seals on
-Cam o-rings on (front and rear)

I need to do the timing belt, finally figured it out (Thanks GeneralDisorder for the easy instructions!) but of course when I go to compress the tensioner, I cant find my tool for it (thanks brother for using it and not bringing it back ) and so hopefully I can do that tomorrow and get it dropped into the car before long... there WILL be a video whether it implodes or not...

I will add todays blurry picture in a second... laptop wants updates now apparently.

Edited by 92_rugby_subie, 16 August 2012 - 01:17 AM.

[92_rugby_subie]

Thread kinda died... I know Im slow...

Parts today...
New PCV piping from block to intake manifold... $23 from Subaru in stock I got this because the other one was cracked and repaired with electrical tape... could explain my funky idle...?
New serpentine belt today 16.95 FROM Subaru was actually cheaper than most of the parts stores I called (for a better belt than "Valucraft which should fit it"

Progress made (so far, got some friends coming soon to do more work and hopefully install tonight)

-Thermo housing on (this is the STANT thermostat that is stickied on the main page VS the one I pulled out of the cars old thermo-housing... Notice how shiny clean the new parts are!



As it sits as of 438pm Oregon time:


In this photo you see the NGK wires, NGK plugs were installed, WP by-pass is on the motor now with the new thermostat in...

Still to do is the timing belt (need to compress tensioner still) and everything associated with dropping the motor back in

[92_rugby_subie]

To any viewers thanks for stickin along...

My buddy Garrett came over and we dropped the motor in...



Hopefully tomorrow Ill throw some fluids in, get some connections connected and the radiator and associated hoses on there and fire it up...

If that doesnt work then Legacy go

[ShawnW]

The oil pump screw holes: The one at the top are for an optional belt shield that is found on later year cars with manual transmissions. The bottom center one holds a coolant pipe that goes across the front of the engine for an oil cooler found on some models.

[92_rugby_subie]

So no use to me more than likely?
Thanks!

[Fairtax4me]

Hey that looks like an engine that's in a car!

[92_rugby_subie]

Unfortunately, thats all it is. I need to get another Legacy to compare some stuff to...

Plus... Decided that since my garage is a mess (as you can tell by the pictures) I would take any bolts that I couldnt stick back into their holes, would go into bags and be labeled (awesome idea right, I take no credit)

Well...

One bag... labeled MISC PIECES went missing somehow...
So now I think Im missing a spring clip for my clutch cable, a bolt on my clutch cable, the alternator tensioner bolt, and the mount that holds my EVAP canister on :/ guess I push the Lego into the street and find the parts, then fix it and fire it up... But today it has radiator, hoses, and a starter hooked back in... Its getting close.

[92_rugby_subie]

Well guys. Had some issues in these 2 threads:
http://www.ultimates...ad.php?t=135673
and
http://www.ultimates...ad.php?t=135892

Mellow65, you had it correct! Thanks a ton!



There you guys go!

Pretty bad lifter tick, and I need to get some hose clamps and coolant in it so I can run it longer and hope the tick goes away.

Im assuming its burning off oil somewhere cuz there was a small amount of smoke/steam coming from the heater core ports on the motor as well as around the valve covers (as you can see me checking out in the video)

Big thanks to USMB, GeneralDisorder - for answering my phone calls and pestering questions, and my friends that came out and helped... Im satisfied that the car is going to be okay

Edited by 92_rugby_subie, 02 September 2012 - 02:28 PM.

[92_rugby_subie]

ALL fuses inside and outside are good :/ but still no hazard lights or radio... They worked before though, so something has to be different, but it all looks correct :/

[Crazyeights]

Sounds good! That tick should go away after a bit once it's warmed up. Mine sounded the same way when I first started it up and it's dead quiet now. Congrats! - Nice car:clap:

Edited by Crazyeights, 02 September 2012 - 06:30 PM.

[92_rugby_subie]

Here she is after her first bath in about 6.5 months!

[Fairtax4me]

Ticking should go away. The lifters take quite a while to pump up. They should shut up after about 30 minutes.

One bath in 6 and a half months? As long as its on Saturday it's all good!

[92_rugby_subie]

So there was no oil in it, even after I put 4QTs in... kinda confusing, but it was run a few times like that... Working on making another video of the noise its making, the lifters are still ticking, but this sound is different... and I cant pinpoint it..

It smoked real good for a bit though...

Thinking if a rod is about to go... or a bearing or whatever this is, its the Subaru god saying to frankenmotor it :/

[92_rugby_subie]

Oh, showed none on the dipstick, I added 4 in the beginning about a week ago... so I knew it had some, 1 quart of oil brought it above full on the dipstick, so it has oil now, and the ticking should go away but Im worried about running it with the new sound.

Almost sounds like something is bouncing around in the oil pan but I cant figure out what would be...

[92_rugby_subie]

Heres the quieter motor sounds...

No weird noises now, and the ticking stop... Subaru gods are happy??

[Crazyeights]

Good Job!

[92_rugby_subie]

I really couldnt thank you guys enough, and really thanking GeneralDisorder, if only you guys knew how bad I bothered that poor guy!

[Fairtax4me]

Listen to that supercharger whine! Don't we all wish that were the source of that beautiful whine. Sounds good! The lifters on these are CRAZY loud, enough to scare you into thinking there's a really major problem. But once they shut up all is well.

Glad ito hear t's together and running! Great job!