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North Idaho GL


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158 replies to this topic

#76 Idasho

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Posted 22 October 2012 - 11:51 PM

Some pain-staking work this evening. Working out custom linkage is always a bit tricky, to get it 100%.

Must have test fitted the shifter 10 times before installing it for the final time.

Got it figured out though. :headbang:

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Then I went to work on the center support bearing mount.

A bit of 1/8" scrap did it.

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Large fender washers on the interior

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Got the exhaust installed, still need to fab up a hanger for the tail end of the y-pipe.

And right before I called it quits I grabbed the rear driveshaft to test fit.

it doesnt..... the damn 2-piece driveshaft is a full 1-inch TOO LONG :-\

I simply dont know what to say about that... motor is right where it used to be, this is a 5-speed D/R from a '85 GL with the appropriate driveshaft. yet it is too long???

Guess I get to go see a driveline shop afterall. At least it is driveable in 2wd as it is right now. Ill do the motor break-in without the rear driveline, then get it fitted.

#77 bratman18

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Posted 23 October 2012 - 04:12 AM

That is very strange. I used the same driveshaft in my BRAT with a 5 spd dual range swap, and they are the same wheel base. Very odd.

#78 Idasho

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Posted 23 October 2012 - 08:01 AM

Only thing that comes to my mind is the lift might have something to do with it. The front is lifted, the rear is not (cranked up torsion bar). That puts the output of the trans much more in line with the input to the rear diff.

#79 bratman18

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Posted 23 October 2012 - 04:29 PM

Only thing that comes to my mind is the lift might have something to do with it. The front is lifted, the rear is not (cranked up torsion bar). That puts the output of the trans much more in line with the input to the rear diff.


I had a 1" lift with my EA82 GL adjustable struts on the front of mine with the rear torsion bar cranked, and it still fit. So it still seems very strange!!!

#80 987687

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Posted 23 October 2012 - 06:39 PM

Do you have the input splines far enough in the transmission? Ie. did you put the carrier bearing 1" too far back?

#81 Idasho

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Posted 23 October 2012 - 07:54 PM

yes, the intermediate driveshaft is within 1/8" of bottoming out on the output shaft of the trans. You dont want is all the way bottomed out, as you want the center support bearing to float, without side loads.


I had a 1" lift with my EA82 GL adjustable struts on the front of mine with the rear torsion bar cranked, and it still fit. So it still seems very strange!!!


Ive got 2.5" of lift on the front. I think Ill drop the diff and see how it looks before I deal with a custom driveline.

#82 Idasho

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Posted 23 October 2012 - 10:33 PM

Dropping the diff wont do it. :banghead:

Mocking it up Id have to drop it nearly 5 inches to make it work.

1" too long at these shallow angles makes for one heck of a drop to make up the difference.

Oh well.... have to continue on. Custom driveshaft later...

#83 Idasho

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Posted 23 October 2012 - 10:38 PM

I was able to get a bit done this evening. Interior vac'd, linkage finalized, and center console installed. Front seats went in too.

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#84 Idasho

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Posted 24 October 2012 - 01:50 PM

And... I think I found the actual problem.

I made a call to the scrap yard that I had the shifter and driveshaft pulled from.

Its from an EJ rig. :rolleyes: No wonder it doesnt fit quite right.

Telltale is the type of linkage I have... and the reason I had to shorten it so much.

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The driveline and shift linkage came from the same rig. And as far as I can tell searching, the EJ prop shaft is longer on the EJ's.

My prop shaft is already installed, and I like the clearance. So the rear shaft will be shortened, and I should be good to go. :burnout:

#85 Idasho

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Posted 24 October 2012 - 11:47 PM

So... Uh....



It RUNS :headbang:

More to come.... :brow:

#86 O.C.D.

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Posted 25 October 2012 - 09:43 AM

And den..........

#87 Idasho

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Posted 25 October 2012 - 01:05 PM

Still have a few things in tidy up under the hood. But I got the first initial start done. Prime oil system with coil wire removed and fuel lines clamped off. Then install coil wire and remove clamp on fuel lines.

Less than 2 revolutions and it started. Fast idle held between 2000 and 2500 RPM for 15 minutes. Then change oil and filter.

Time for break-in :headbang:

#88 Crazyeights

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Posted 25 October 2012 - 06:25 PM

I have been watching your thread and I was wondering why your shift linkage looked so much different than mine when I did the conversion on it. Great job, you seem to be very detail oriented in your work. The time you have spent really shows. Congrats on the initial firing:clap: If you are curious you can send a sample of your break-in oil to Blackstone Labs for an analysis. It's only about $25.00 and they send you the bottle and shipping tube for free.

Edited by Crazyeights, 25 October 2012 - 06:29 PM.


#89 Idasho

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Posted 25 October 2012 - 07:56 PM

Yeah, I might do that with the second round of break-in.

I drained the oil and gave it a fresh filter this afternoon, I ran a magnet through the oil that I drained, and couldnt find ANYTHING. Thats good:headbang:

With fresh oil and filter I fired it back up, set the idle, and checked the timing. All good. It does have a small bog off idle if you stab the throttle, so Ill have to adjust the mix a bit.

I was able to take it on its maiden voyage.

20 miles later all it well. Sounds good, feels great, all the gauges in the normal, and the trans shifts buttery smooth compared to the old 4-speed.

I should have some more pics and vids this weekend. :burnout:

#90 Idasho

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Posted 25 October 2012 - 08:09 PM

Okay, I lied :D

Vids here:

If somebody could embed them, that would be appreciated. Im still trying to figure that out :-p

First start:



After initial break-in run:




:headbang:

#91 TheLoyale

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Posted 25 October 2012 - 09:54 PM

Yay!

#92 92LoyaleH4

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Posted 26 October 2012 - 12:30 AM

Very nice car!!! Awesome work you've done to her:headbang:

#93 Idasho

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Posted 26 October 2012 - 06:51 PM

Yep, motor runs GREAT!! :clap: I put another 50 miles on her today. Worked that motor pretty hard to get the piston rings to bed. So far so good. Gauges in the green, no weird noises, and no leaks... so far :D

Here are a couple of photos from this afternoon. Even got some snow today.

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#94 old sub freak

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Posted 27 October 2012 - 04:32 PM

Wow..!! I haven't read your whole story but will tonight..I just brought home a 84 GL 10,It too had the Black valve covers?? How cool HaHa.Anyway have you had any issues with the digital dash?When I drove mine home after sitting since 2004 there was no lights on the dash,nothing worked.The next day the guages lit up but didn't make sence.Then day 3 the guages all worked. So I hope it stays that way.The clock thing sure looks interesting??So any advice..Oh and by the way, You have a very cool subaru and have done a exellent job on the "extras"..And for being a first timer you fell into a subaru addicts dream!!! Have fun with it.C ya Toddnic

#95 Idasho

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Posted 27 October 2012 - 07:41 PM

The digital dash hasnt given me any real trouble. I did have one of the buttons freeze up the first winter I had it. Too much moisture I think. The car had accumulated a good amount of snow on the floorboards from snowy boots, then we had a couple of warm days, then some REAL cold days. I parked it in the shop with a heater on for a few days and havnt had any issues since.

I did upgrade to the Nissan maxima alternator soon after I purchased it though. Alternator failure is supposed to be the main killer for the digidash. ;)

#96 old sub freak

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Posted 27 October 2012 - 08:56 PM

Yikes !!So how does that work??The funny thing about subaru altenators is almost everyone I have replaced was from Over chargeing....and that was quite a few...Well i will tell her to keep a eye on her alt.guage and watch for changes..Thanks again.so are a cabnet maker?..

#97 Idasho

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Posted 28 October 2012 - 06:58 PM

Was able to put some more miles on it this weekend. Motor is doing great. Oil pressure is rock solid. Im seeing 22PSI at hot idle. :headbang:

One problem though, it looks like the new clutch did in the old, original clutch cable. I adjusted it (tightening it) 3 times in the past few days, only for the difficult shifting to return within a few miles.

I ordered a couple of clutch cables from the dealer. Figured, might as well have one on the shelf :popcorn:

#98 TajMan

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Posted 28 October 2012 - 11:02 PM

I just replaced a clutch cable for my customer's car an '85 Brat, got one from rockauto.com for like $16, however it didn't fix his problem of extremely hard pedal effort.. so it looks like his pressure plate is causing the issue- he'll have to deal with it until he is ready to pay for a full clutch job.

#99 Idasho

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Posted 28 October 2012 - 11:11 PM

Mine doesnt have a stiff pedal. It just keeps wanting me to tighten the cable.

Hopefully a new cable does it. Figured it wouldnt hurt, it is the original cable.

#100 Idasho

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Posted 29 October 2012 - 07:48 PM

Well, I think I found the problem with the clutch...


Im an idiot. :popcorn: I had the floor mat in backwards... and it was preventing me from depressing it all the way.

Oh well, At least Ill have some spare clutch cables :D


Small update for this evening.

100-mile report :headbang:

After 100 miles of working the poop out of this motor in an attempt to bed the piston rings well, it was given an oil and filter service.

During that service, an overall inspection was done, and various fasteners tightened.

No leaks, and things look to be working out great. Oil did its job, keeping debris in suspension, and the magnetic drain plug didnt have ANYTHING on it. This oil sample, as well as a sample from the next batch will be sent off for testing.

Im happy. And this motor is starting to feel real nice. The additional torque from the higher compression is showing itself. So now, with fresh oil and filter is will be drive normally for 1500 miles. Then the timing will be bumped up a bit, and the motor will be fed synthetic oil, and a fresh filter, of course. Then its off to a wonderful 8-10k mile oil change life.

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