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Hitachi Carb Q & A
Posted 13 August 2012 - 12:15 PM
A: Clogged Emulsion tubes
Q: Do I need a rebuild?
A: Probably not a full rebuild, just remove and blow out the emulsion tubes. Replacing the air horn O-rings helps some too with getting a good spray.
Q: Do I need to remove the carb?
A: No, remove the linkage for the Accel pump and Choke set. Then remove the top of carb (5 screws)
Q: How do I clean the emulsion tubes
A: With top of carb removed, look for 2 solid brass screws. Take them out, under them is the emulsion tubes. Screw them out, and blow them out with compressed air, or a can of brake clean. Repeat the same with the jet/tubes
Q: Should I do anything else?
A: Yes, drain the bowl. 2 screws on the bottom copper washer seals.
If anyone finds this helpful, or has more questions let me know.
I hate seeing people junk or bastardize good subarus with clogged carbs.
Hoping to revive the much maligned Hitachi Carb's name.
Posted 13 August 2012 - 12:32 PM
I normally keep a rebuild kit in my locker at work, if I see a EA82 carb that isnt fully covered in grease I normally pull it off, rebuild it and put it in a gallon ziplock bag until I need it for my lifted rig
Maybe add something about avoiding the Red HEET. It eats the seals/gaskets on carbs. I had to learn the hard way this past winter with mine
Posted 16 August 2012 - 01:31 PM
Yellow Heat = Methyl Alcohol - doesnt eat carb seals/gaskets and you can buy this stuff in bulk. I buy it by the gallon can @ the paint shop.
Stabil = Hydrotreated light naphthenic distillate solvent extract and some other crap in it. Heet isnt really made for fuel storage over time. Depending on what you are wanting to do, I'd use yellow heat for short term storage (and daily driving) If you are storing for 6 months or more, use Stabil
Posted 24 April 2013 - 05:59 PM
Thanks for the quick Q & A. It was a real simple task to clean out the Hitachi. And the improvement is dramatic! My EA81 now has a smooth idle and she will pull all the way to 5k rpm rather then crapping out at 3.5k. I wish I knew about this one sooner.
Posted 24 April 2013 - 09:26 PM
Again thank you for (hopefully) stifling some of the redundancy around here. Ill be trying this out this weekend...
my (california) 86 GL wagon idles fine but craps out under acceleration. fuel filters are gravy.... i know its the carb, which is dirty and foreign to me.
if I dont get it figured out soon im going to attempt an spfi swap, Ive got everything to do it. That said, Id rather make Whitey run with what he brung so to speak.
Edited by Subruise, 24 April 2013 - 09:31 PM.
Posted 29 April 2013 - 05:45 PM
Thanks for this!
Any chance of any pictures sometime? I'm still a beginner and knowing more about what I'm looking for definitely helps with the confidence (carbs are scary =P)
Posted 19 September 2013 - 10:10 PM
Posted 26 August 2015 - 09:41 PM
gloyale since you seem to be the carb guy.. any ideas why my 84 brat stalls out when going into the 3rd bear. New filters and line. most of the time it idles fine. runs okay till i get it on the road
Posted 04 March 2017 - 04:51 AM
I'm not sure if Subaru used the secondary air flaps or not, but if so, what was their purpose? I know lots of early Dastuns used a 306dcg which had a weighted arm that controlled a flap just above the secondary throttle plate. Was that to slow the rush of air when you stomped on the peddle? To stop or slow the dead spot from too much air??
Posted 27 May 2017 - 10:33 PM
I just put a new 'rebuilt' carb on my '84 GL EA81. The car now runs like a champ with one exception. When I accelerate from a stop, there is an irritating delay in the throttle; very brief, but maddening. If the A/C is on, the will sometimes stall out completely. I have a great mechanic, but he cannot figure it out. He spent 16 hours trying to get it adjusted right. I even bought a new distributor to try and fix it (glad I did this as the car runs much peppier now) Can anyone give some advice on what we are missing?
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