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O.C.D.'s 1980 Brat - "The Squirrel"


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215 replies to this topic

#101 88wacaroo

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Posted 10 February 2013 - 08:02 PM

Hey! Congrats on the boy.... I know about time not being friendly-My 700mi.daily commute has gone down to once a wk.now....It"s fun trying to buy a car on the run-HAHA, I was comin to Den. an seen a 83 wgn. for $500. in Rifle stopped for 15 min. gave him $400. came back 5 days later an drove it to Delta w/a dead hole-30mph over the Grand MESA was fun!! Then came back to Den. to get some parts AND Bikes {I Collect M/Cs too W/Subies}...Maybe 1 of these months I"ll get back to work too if the weather gets straight-Snow or get off the Pot[toilet]!!! I have projects to do too,Like ICE FISHIN Be nice!!! Nice job on Squirrel there ALOT of hrs.TOO!! I go thru that on the Bikes-at least you don"t have to polish each spoke at a time HAHA!! Springs comin though an can work outside again Yee Haa!! Nice job again O.C.D. Nate :D



#102 O.C.D.

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 01:53 PM

Well, the Squirrel is about to come out of garage hibernation and get some love finally.

 

Picked up some '02 WRX seats for her.  Almost want to put them in the Legacy, hmmmm.....

photo4_zps16827f9b.jpg

 

Speaking of Legacy she went Stage 2 this last weekend.  Can't wait for the tune to finish.  And since I don't want to start another thread here is some eye candy.

photo3_zps6705686a.jpg

 

photo2_zpsa140263a.jpg

 

COBB FTW!!!

photo1_zps4cdc7b4c.jpg

 

Snagged some JDM 5Zigen wheels as well.  Refinishing them as we speak.

 

So maybe next time this thread will be update with work on the "Vintage Subaru", lol.


Edited by O.C.D., 02 April 2013 - 01:55 PM.


#103 waimaks

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Posted 07 May 2013 - 04:24 AM

Only just found your thread here, didn't know this section existed.


Nice!



#104 O.C.D.

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 03:41 PM

Well, I finally got some time to work on the Squirrel!  I discovered that late nights are the only time I get to work on her but I am trying.

 

Pulled the motor to start the reseal.  Lots to talk about and I will try and address it all.  So far though, tearing apart an EA71 has taken a couple hours once out.  I just hope I can get her all back together, lol.

 

 

The night we pulled it immediately I went to the rear main as I have been thinking it was leaking this whole time.  So off with the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel.  The clutch was soaked with more oil than a motorcycle clutchpak!!  I am betting this is why it shifted like crap. Cleaned up the bell housing..

Pulled rear main of course...

New vs old - old was fine.

New rear main...

 

Cleaned up the flywheel as well.  I don't feel anything other than oil on there.  No gouging or burn marks that are to worry about.  Going to reuse and roll the dice.

 

I think my main issue resides in the trans though as there are puddles of fluid sitting there. 

 

This was all done on a late night.  My next job was to organize and get ready for the teardown. First order of business was to make a darn stand.  I had the engine rigged and I was not liking it.  So I used the diagram from the "How to Keep Your Subaru Alive" PDF.



#105 O.C.D.

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 03:49 PM

Clutch is worn thin and separating.

 

Pressure plate is caked in oil.

 

Pilot bearing was non-existent.  Notice that the remnants of the pilot bearing are still in there.  Any ideas on how to get that out? I did find the seal though. It was laying in the bottom pan with the clutch return springs that were snapped.

 

So here is the stand and it works perfectly!

 

I already pulled the motor and I did it by removing the motor mount buts.  That was a lesson learned as I now know that it is easier to remove the motor mount supports.  So I placed them back home for now and also took another pic to show the oil from the trans,

 



#106 O.C.D.

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 03:56 PM

I will need to learn the tolerances asap of course but all valves have almost a 1/16th" of play when not in use?!  Any links to valve adjustments?

 

As I already rebuilt the oil pump last year I am not taking it apart.  I wasn't even gong to remove the filter until I found my parts stash - all OEM baby!  Any way, the oil pressure switch wasn't bad either but I looked at it and then wondered if the one of my 2011 WRX would fit?  Well, I'll be danged if it isn't the same part?!  So why not throw it in.

 

Cleaned up the block before install.

 

A little pipe thread - yes I know this is not the oil type tape.

 

And installed.



#107 O.C.D.

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 04:00 PM

So I really needed to get to the point - head gaskets.  Why?  I have been wanting to see if the heads are cracked and or leaking and if the pistons were oiled.  So off with the intake manifold and the spider of a carb setup.

 

Somewhat carboned and built up but really wet heads on the pistons.

 

I can still see cross-hatching!!!

 

Old vs. new



#108 O.C.D.

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 04:09 PM

Once the heads were off the cleaning began.  Brake cleaner is the best thing I have found for old dirty metals.  Well that and a series of brushes to scrub the dirt and grime off.

 

So, on the way to a cleaned up block and need to of course do the oil pan gasket.  Did the OEM and lithium grease trick, lol  Also did a new drain plug and crush washer.  PO had no washer and torques the drain bolt to probably 100lbs!!!

 

Before.

 

Cleaned up and ready to re-seal.

 

And new cork gasket and plug.   Looks like before but not internally, lol.

 

Next up is this....



#109 O.C.D.

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 04:15 PM

Sorry if some of the pics are really washed out.  I have these natural light fluorescents and they are just bright.  iPhone can't decide what to do, lol.

 

So USMB, what do I do about that pilot bearing housing stuck in the crankshaft?

 

Who has the tolerances for an EA71 and can show me the best way to do it without the special tool?

 

Based on the picks and that the block was not leaking anywhere, I know it has to be the transmission.  Where do I start on that one?



#110 86BRATMAN

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 04:18 PM

You don't happen to have access to a slide hammer do you?  One of those with the right grip end would take that bearing right out.



#111 O.C.D.

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 04:26 PM

You don't happen to have access to a slide hammer do you?  One of those with the right grip end would take that bearing right out.

 

Hmm, had not thought of that.  They have heads that are that small?



#112 86BRATMAN

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 07:04 PM

one of the mechanics at the dealership I work at has some, the sell a few different sizes of slide hammers, I bought an elcheapo one from harbor freight that has one I think would work for it nicely

#113 presslab

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Posted 24 May 2013 - 09:46 PM

I have something like this for pilot bearings:

http://www.amazon.co...r/dp/B000X282DM

 

Without the pilot bearing the input shaft not supported enough, it could be what caused the seal in the trans to leak.



#114 O.C.D.

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Posted 27 May 2013 - 08:08 AM

I have something like this for pilot bearings:
http://www.amazon.co...r/dp/B000X282DM
 
Without the pilot bearing the input shaft not supported enough, it could be what caused the seal in the trans to leak.


Thankfully I have a new pilot and seal. I too feel this is why it was leaking.

I haven't pulled the trans yet because I been tearing apart the motor. Aside from the bottom end she is getting it all. I have tons more pictures.

Thanks for the link.

#115 O.C.D.

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Posted 27 May 2013 - 08:12 AM

Posting on my phone so I am doing duplicate posts, sorry.

Can you all tell me about the heads and torquing them after she runs again? If I torque them to specs should I really need to re-torque after a few heat cycles/few hundred miles? Subaru torques them at the factory and then they don't get another check, or do they? I am sure the studs are already stretched, right? Any insight would be appreciated.

Also what spark plugs are you all using? Autozone pulled up standard NGKcoppers. What is odd is they have a 20 mm or about 13/16's hex on them?! Can we use anything more modern? I don't car about platinums or anything too fancy.

Thanks.

#116 O.C.D.

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Posted 29 May 2013 - 04:07 PM

Hey all, need a response or two on the head gasket question. I here 50/50 on the responses.


Edited by O.C.D., 30 May 2013 - 02:28 PM.


#117 O.C.D.

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Posted 02 June 2013 - 09:36 PM

Anyone? Beuller.......

#118 turbosubarubrat

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Posted 03 June 2013 - 12:39 AM

i dont and my dad does it half the time(same results either way)if you follow the torque squence you should be fine. 



#119 86BRATMAN

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Posted 03 June 2013 - 08:31 AM

Me personally, if it says to do a retorque I'd give it a retorque.  We a head gasket job on a buddy's cherokee a few years back, and he didn't want to go through the trouble of pulling the valve covers back off to do the retorque.  Failed again about 6 months ago.  Everything else was done by the book except the retorque. Originally the jeep had 175k on it when we tore it down, only got 50k out of it the second time.



#120 O.C.D.

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Posted 04 June 2013 - 09:28 AM

Alright then I will retorque.  Just learning the ropes so to speak.  First engine reseal and all.

 

I am almost complete on the engine.  Got another late night under the belt.  But who needs sleep?

 

Both heads cleaned like no other and back on with the new gaskets.

 

Got the old pilot bearing out as well.  Easy as can be.  I just grabbed a small grinding stone on the dremel and went at it.  Slipped out after the cut.

 

New pilot hammered in with a socket.  Some grease and a new gasket and we are ready for the trans-shaft.

 

 

 

 

 

 



#121 O.C.D.

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Posted 04 June 2013 - 09:38 AM

I was sad cause I took some of the Subaru blue off of the valve covers when cleaning them.  Caked on 33 year-old grime and oil are not easy as many of you know.  So, I decided it was time to use some of the VHT paint I had laying around.  Since some of the older Subies had black engine accents I thought it would be good.

 

 

Did the lithium grease on the cork trick and installed the new valve gaskets and bolt gaskets.  It almost looks factory new!



#122 O.C.D.

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Posted 04 June 2013 - 09:45 AM

NOS clutch and a NOS pressure plate as well.  Amazingly small - I still can't get it out of my head, lol.  But 67 HP is not exactly a clutch burner.

 

All torqued and threadlocked up.  Didn't have a clutch tool so I had to improvise with sockets and vision.  Hope I am close enough.

 

SO, other than the cleaning of the carb and mounting it back on, I am finished with the re-seal of the engine.  I am quite pleased.



#123 O.C.D.

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Posted 05 June 2013 - 12:06 PM

Another couple questions for you all.

 

1.  As the 1980 has an external voltage regulator, what is the best replacement part? 

2.  My Alternator is clicking when I spin it.  I do not necessary want to rebuild it (if I can prevent).

 

I checked Rock Auto but I wanted to see what you all do for these Gen 1 Brats/Wagons, etc...

 

Cheaper ones or?

 

Thanks!


Edited by O.C.D., 05 June 2013 - 12:11 PM.


#124 O.C.D.

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Posted 05 June 2013 - 02:32 PM

Also forgot to add these couple pics.

 

When I had the heads of I noticed the typical cracks (from what I have learned) in between the intake and exhaust valves.

 

I don't know if I mentioned but I also replaced all the exhaust manifold studs as well.  The PO had only three in there and he used gasket sealer to make it work - it didn't, lol.  One was kind of stripped but I could get enough for a tight hold.  Used lots of red loctite.

 

Another thing that was bad was the leads for the distributor.  They were flimsy and weak.  Some places they were worn through and the copper corroded.  So I improvised and made a new lead that looks factory.

 

Here is the old one.

 

Found some 14 gauge speaker wire but it was too big.

 

Used some 16 gauge and pulled the pigtails out of the connector.  Soldered on the new leads and the heat shrank them both.

 

This allowed for a complete cleaning - was full of oil.

 

I then twisted them like OEM.

 

I was barely able to get the heat shrink the wires?!  I had to use foot powder to make it slide.  I then shrank it and I have a brand new lead.

 

Connected it up to the old leads which were good in the disty housing.

 

And done!!!  I need to gap to "0.014 I think still.



#125 Subieguy

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 07:46 PM

I have never seen such detail and effort to bring a Brat back. I think it's great! Plus you had the part numbers for the bushings on the mustache bar. Big help. Going to have a shop press them in tomorrow. Gave it a effort but the old ones were not budging. How have you managed to find some of these old part numbers? My local dealer is useless when it comes to our old Brats. I just buy parts online.






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