Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!
|Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.
We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!
Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!
87' subaru DL, all stock, Sluggish prob
Posted 25 August 2012 - 05:47 PM
Posted 25 August 2012 - 06:41 PM
Posted 26 August 2012 - 05:50 PM
couple of things to check.
1) spray some carb cleaner around the vacuum hoses on the motor. if the motor rpm increases then you have a vacuum leak. there are likely a few of them if you still have the stock plate of spaghetti on the motor. button up any vacuum leaks by replacing hoses but if its a carb dont pull the trigger on expensive valves and baffles that you might not need. research here before you spend too much.
2) timing can do that if its out of whack. if your that new you probably dont have a timing light, but you can rent one or borrow one, or just have someone check it. if you have a vacuum hose running to the distributor, make sure it is plugged into a carb port and not the manifold. it needs ported vaccum (vacuum that increases with rpm) and many other motors use unported vacuum. debate rages, but this motor and dist was ran ported so i would just put it back that way if you find it different. Also most people I see posting here (and myself as well) have found that 20 deg initial timing is better than the 8 deg it says in the manual. I set it like the sticker on my car said and it ran crappy. increased the timing and it ran much better. not fully through testing it yet though.
3) sticking throttle sounds like its just a linkage deal. spray it down with some carb cleaner and/or visually find out where its binding. worn throttle shafts can bind (its what mine is doing currently) so I moved the spring to add a bit more pull. it works as a get by kind of fix.
the pcv and egr could be the culprits if they leak. if so the carb cleaner trick could find it. while you at it you can pull the pcv valve out and clean it with some gas. if it rattles around its probably fine. try pulling the vacuum hose off of the egr valve (the small hose), suck on it and plug it with your tongue. if it holds the egr is likely fine, if it bleeds out its bad. if it is working ok, leaving this hose off and plugging it should deactivate the egr to take it out of the mix. it can still be leaking exhaust into the manifold though. No great way to test that other than removal and see if it is different.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users