bluegreene Posted August 28, 2012 Share Posted August 28, 2012 So, I've discovered that my clutch cable in fact failed leading me to think my clutch had gone out. The cable has fallen into the rubber sealer and all the hardware attaching the cable to the clutch bracket is gone. Will clutch cable kits include everything I will want to replace? (There's a few different kits available at a local parts store. And it's hard to tell from the pictures) It's that 1990 legacy again. XD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95legwagon Posted August 28, 2012 Share Posted August 28, 2012 the new cable SHOULD come with all new nuts and stuff on the new one.... id ask a stealership to be sure.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted August 28, 2012 Share Posted August 28, 2012 Yes, comes with the hardware usually. Everything you need should still be there unless it broke someplace strange. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 You need to get it from Subaru. The parts store cables are inferior. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluegreene Posted August 30, 2012 Author Share Posted August 30, 2012 (edited) This is what it looks like. I did not remove anything from the clutch assembly. Durania, you are absolutely right. Ordered one from the parts store to look at it. Then went to the dealership and the difference is astonishing. Every bit about the OEM one is bigger and stronger. Yikes, good thing I posted this thread. Thanks y'all. Oh and the parts store cable did not come with hardware. Out there looking at how to get the thing out... And where does this spring go??? Edited August 30, 2012 by bluegreene Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluegreene Posted August 30, 2012 Author Share Posted August 30, 2012 Got most of the cable off. Figured where the spring goes and now I just cant get the housing out from behind the pedal. I got the actual end piece connecting to the pedal itself off but not the place where the housing attaches to the floor board just before going to the firewall. I can't really tell if there's anything I need to remove. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belacane Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 Interested to know how you ended up getting the cable out. I'm imagining this is something I'm going to have to deal with in the future. gl! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluegreene Posted August 30, 2012 Author Share Posted August 30, 2012 (edited) There's a C-clip holding the cable housing to the bracket before going through the firewall. You need to move the C-clip the same direction as the slot in the bracket (towards the fuse box). Thing is a mother F&$%er to get off. I ended up clamping a pair of needle nose vice grips on there and worked it off. Edited August 30, 2012 by bluegreene Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluegreene Posted August 30, 2012 Author Share Posted August 30, 2012 (edited) So now I don't know where the proper positioning of the cable is. Seeing how the hardware was missing to begin with, I'm not sure what It needs to look like. Just tested it and the clutch doesn't engage when all the way to the floor. Does this look somewhat correct? Pretty clueless here... You'll notice it's not fully seated in the space to the far right. Also, the rubber seal on the clutch bracket has cracked in half. Edited August 30, 2012 by bluegreene Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95legwagon Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 that looks just like mine...... except i dont have a hillholder like you....or that spring.... but mine was a 5 speed swap lol. if the clutch doesnt engage when the pedal is to the floor you have to tighten the nuts to adjust the cable tighter on the clutch fork....i did mine by hand tightening them to the fork and snugging them....it worked for me. then i just adjusted to my own comfort - so my clutch engages closer to the floor than other cars.... i also have a bahnhof stage 1 clutch so its a lil different Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 Good job getting it replaced. Glad you got it sorted out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluegreene Posted February 4, 2013 Author Share Posted February 4, 2013 Well... After replacing the cable, and every few weeks, I've had to readjust the cable because it starts to get hard to go into first and reverse. The nuts are not getting looser because I've noticed threads being added every time. Now, I'm out of room, the clutch pedal is hard to push down and today it started getting hard to go into first and reverse again... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 New cables will stretch a bit and need re-adjustment after a few weeks. Have you been adjusting the hill holder cable out while adjusting the clutch cable in? Is the clutch cable routed exactly the same way as the old one? When the clutch cable is properly adjusted you should have about 1/4" of free play at the end of the release lever. The hill holder cable should pull the lever on the hill holder about 1/4" and should hold the release lever forward just enough so the TOB is not in constant contact with the pressure plate. That extra return spring should not be there. It's unnecessary on cars with the hill holder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluegreene Posted February 6, 2013 Author Share Posted February 6, 2013 (edited) I've released the clutch cable and tried manually activating the clutch lever on the transaxle. It won't go into first or reverse and I was pushing on it pretty hard. The cable is routed the same as before but I did not zip tie it to where it was before. So if I release the hill holder cable and let the hill holder lever lay in place, I should tighten it 1/4" past that point? Nowhere in the reinstall of the clutch cable did I readjust the hill holder cable. I did not add the spring. It was hanging there (not attached to the clutch lever) after the cable and hardware broke. Also, the rubber seal on the clutch lever is broken and I'm afraid now that the hardware may have fallen into it. Could that be the reason why I cannot manually push the lever in enough to put it into gear? Edited February 6, 2013 by bluegreene Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 You have to be a big person to be able to completely disengage the clutch by pushing on the release lever by hand. There is a spring pushing back with about 1500 lbs of force at the other end of that lever. With the pivot at about 1/3 the length of the lever it means you need to push with about 750 lbs of force on your end to overcome the spring. With the clutch cable connected have someone push the pedal down while you watch the release lever move. It should move about 1-1/4". If the release lever moves that far or a bit further then cable operation is normal and there is some other cause. It could be a cracked release lever or there could be damage to the pressure plate or clutch disc. The hardware from the old cable would not have fallen into the bellhousing. If it did it would have fallen to the bottom and probably rolled out. You may find some of it somewhere under the intake manifold, but chances are it fell off the side down to the road. Those boots split all the time. It spreads open when the release fork is pulled back. When the cable broke the release lever shot forward (throwing any parts still attached to it) and the opening in the boot closed up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluegreene Posted February 7, 2013 Author Share Posted February 7, 2013 (edited) Thanks for the help! If the release lever moves that far or a bit further then cable operation is normal and there is some other cause. It could be a cracked release lever or there could be damage to the pressure plate or clutch disc. I will check for that tomorrow. But I'm back to the question of why it would continuously seem like the cable is stretching out. The hardware from the old cable would not have fallen into the bellhousing. If it did it would have fallen to the bottom and probably rolled out. You may find some of it somewhere under the intake manifold, but chances are it fell off the side down to the road. Those boots split all the time. It spreads open when the release fork is pulled back. When the cable broke the release lever shot forward (throwing any parts still attached to it) and the opening in the boot closed up. Yea... chances are it fell onto the road as I was driving... Ok.. That does make plenty of sense.. that the hardware got tossed out of the way when it broke. there's a lot of old rubber hoses and boots that have corroded on this thing... Edited February 7, 2013 by bluegreene Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 If the release lever is cracked it will just bend instead of pushing in the pressure plate. You may be able to see if it is cracked down near the pivot point by removing what's left of the torn dust boot and looking down into the bellhousing wih a light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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