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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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1987 GL-10 Wagon EA82 3AT


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46 replies to this topic

#26 DT250a

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Posted 06 September 2012 - 08:35 PM

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Well it was more like two months ago I got the car but it's just been sitting.

The tires are almost bald so I need to get on the 6-lug bandwagon pretty soon too.

Kinda funny, but the first mod I did to this car was to install a trailer hitch . . . . bahahaha . . . . not sure how much it will get used though with the power characteristics . . . LOL.

I want to tint the windows also. Trailer hitches & tinted windows . . . . every car I've owned had both :D

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#27 djellum

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Posted 06 September 2012 - 11:42 PM

sounds like your on your way. here are a couple of things that may help move things along

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Right in the center of the pic by the spare tire rack is a square plastic container. it is a silencer for the ASV system. there is another on the far left side of the pic but its a cylinder. just below these is the actual ASV valves. you can unhook everything above the asv valves and remove it (hoses and baffles). then get 2 large vacuum plugs (5/8ish) and plug the asv where the hose goes to the silencer.
Posted Image


here you see the passenger side ASV silencer again. also in the middle almost hidden is the EGR. theres a big hose on the passenger side of it, and a small hose on the drivers side of it. remove the large hose and plug the hole, and hook up the little hose to the manifold vacuum. also you can see a round plastic ball at the top of the pic. I dont have this so dont remove it till you know for sure what it is (I think its for the AC)
Posted Image


here is the Anti afterfire valve. one hose is hooked to the EGR, one to the manifold. remove it and plug the holes. it just quiets the exhaust when your off throttle going down hill, better to remove the chance for a leak. also that bracket in the front is where your charcoal canister used to be. its gone which is fine, but if your looking at a diagram and wondering where it is, you dont have one.

Posted Image


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#28 DT250a

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 12:07 PM

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Thanks djellum.

I would like to take a 260 mile round trip before I make any more changes to get a baseline on how it's running & what mileage I'm getting.

Is that a bad idea? My dad drove it a lot, even with the disty hooked to the manifold hard line (thermo switch?).




sounds like your on your way. here are a couple of things that may help move things along



#29 Subruise

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 12:08 PM

just make sure you take extra coolant, oil, belts, and tools with you and you should be fine

#30 DT250a

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 12:11 PM

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OK. I keep finding things that I wrongly assumed before.

In my first posts, I explained how the heater control canister had a vacuum line that went toward the front without terminating.

I was wrong! The heater control have always been hooked to the manifold under the rear of the carb!

The mystery line goes to a small module in front of the heater control canister.

See my pics:

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

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Now, the question is, where does this mystery line go? Is it ok where I put it (on a manifold hardline that pulls vacuum)?

was it supposed to be just dangling as a vent or something?

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I need to figure this out before my drive tonight.

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#31 DT250a

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 12:17 PM

just make sure you take extra coolant, oil, belts, and tools with you and you should be fine


The belts look fine. Would it be worth buying extras just to have? I assume we're talking about the accessory belts; alternator, AC, PS, etc?

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#32 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 02:46 PM

...Took the adapter plates down to the bottom one. Screws were about finger tight. One of them was a torx-30...


About the Weber Carb's adaptor plates, I has interesting info, ~► Here.

I Kindly suggest you to see it, could be Helpful.
:)


... The heater control have always been hooked to the manifold under the rear of the carb!

The mystery line goes to a small module in front of the heater control canister. ... Now, the question is, where does this mystery line go? Is it ok where I put it (on a manifold hardline that pulls vacuum)?

was it supposed to be just dangling as a vent or something? ...



I spent an Hour browsing my Photobucket account (Where I Upload my Pictures - Seems like Photobucket is having software problems now) to find these age old pics I posted here long years ago, I hope those be Helpful:


Posted Image


One vacuum Line comes from the intake to a "T"

then it goes to the Vacuum accumulator bottle's inlet #1 ...


Posted Image


... then its #2 goes to the under-the-windshield plastic pipe,

it takes the Vacuum to the interior's A/C Button Controls.

The
"T" Receives the Vacuum and detour it to an electric valve,

it let the vacuum pass thru to the Accelerator Actuator, next to the Carb,

in order to Raise the Idle RPM's when the A/C is On.



Posted Image


Posted Image


These are Age Old Photos, taken when my Subaru "BumbleBeast" was White...

I Hope this could be Helpful for you.

Kind Regards.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 07 September 2012 - 02:54 PM.
Misspelled Word, Fixed. ;)


#33 DT250a

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 03:14 PM

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I do not have an 'accelerator actuator'. What does it do?

(EDIT: Does it increase idle RPM's when AC is engaged? I want that!)

What should I do with the hose?

Is it ok leaving it open to air until I get the AA, and then plug the hard manifold line it's currently plugged into?

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#34 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 03:19 PM

... I do not have an 'accelerator actuator'. What does it do? ...


As I Wrote:

...the Accelerator Actuator, next to the Carb ... to Raise the Idle RPM's when the A/C is On...


If your Subie doesn't have that part next to the Carb, in the intake... it means that the Mechanic that did the Carb swap job (or someone elso, don't know) Removed it from the intake Manifold.

The Easiest solution is to Remove the
"T" and let the Hose go Directly from the Intake to the Vacuum Bottle.

You'll notice an RPM's Drop when A/C is On due to the Lack of the Actuator, but that usually is Not a big problem.

Kind Regards.


#35 DT250a

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 03:33 PM

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So the line that goes to the AA is just laying open against the PS fender for now. I assume it should have no force with AC off, and a vacuum with AC engaged?

I then plugged the manifold hard line (which pulls vacuum) where the AA line was incorrectly hooked by me.

This made the idle drop to 550 - 600 RPMs. I adjusted the idle speed on the Weber so it's at 775 - 800 RPMs when warm.

The manifold hard line, which pulls vacuum, was left open for a couple years, and the car ran well. I'm still assuming that it should be plugged?

Now, how does the air / fuel screw work? Does it meter air, so that unscrewing it leans out idle mixture & screwing it in richens idle mixture?

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#36 DT250a

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 03:48 PM

I spent an Hour browsing my Photobucket account (Where I Upload my Pictures - Seems like Photobucket is having software problems now) to find these age old pics I posted here long years ago, I hope those be Helpful:


Thank you so very much for contributing to my thread. I have read your postings as well as Kanurys' & learned very much from them.

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#37 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 03:49 PM

You're Welcome!


So the line that goes to the AA is just laying open against the PS fender for now. I assume it should have no force with AC off, and a vacuum with AC engaged? ...


Yes.

I Kindly Suggest you to Run a Vacuum from the Intake to the Bottle directly, as I Posted above, in order to get rid of any possible vacuum leak; and Then try again with the Idle Mixture Screw.

It is Not Rocket Science, usually you turn it in carefully almost all the way, then unscrew it slowly in order to let the Engine Idling Smooth... avoid the Shakes.

Finally, adjust the Idle Speed and verify the Ignition Timing, Weberized EA82's Love to Run at around 20º despite if their under-the-hood Sticker says it must be at 8º.

Good Luck!
Kind Regards.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 07 September 2012 - 03:52 PM.
Misspelled Word, Fixed ;)


#38 DT250a

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 04:01 PM

I Kindly Suggest you to Run a Vacuum from the Intake to the Bottle directly, as I Posted above, in order to get rid of any possible vacuum leak; and Then try again with the Idle Mixture Screw.


Thank you.

I unhooked the 'T', and put a coupler in it's place. No change in idle speed.

I am now ready for my trip & will report mileage & drive-ability.

I will not mess with the air mixture screw at this time. My trip will take me from 750' elevation to 2000'. If my off idle response improves after the change in elevation, I will lean out the mixture. If it worsens I will richen it.

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#39 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 04:03 PM

Don't forget to take your Camera, to take Pics of your Trip, to post some here ;)

Kind Regards. :burnout:


#40 djellum

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 06:31 PM

I like to adjust my carb with a vacuum gauge. I dont have a lot of expierience to be able to just tell by listening. just google it, basically the theory is that maximizing your vacuum will your best lean idle or very close. I seem to do better that way.

also a vacuum gauge can tell you about many problems you cant see or hear if you dont know to look for them. just google the list, I cant remember it, but there are about a half dozen problems from valve issues, vacuum leaks, etc that the gauge will help diagnose.

#41 DT250a

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Posted 08 September 2012 - 07:23 PM

.

Took the camera but no time for pics :(

The Good:

Didn't break anything.
Made it there & back.
Acceptable fuel consumption.

The bad:

Slight miss off idle when apply 1/8th throttle or so. Then I fueled up (ethenol free 91 octane) and it got way worse. It was so bad that i could barely drive it in stop & go traffic. When you took off from idle it would bog, then die. If you gave it 1/2 throttle or so & feathered it, it would get up to speed & be ok.

So I had about a half tank of gas left & added a full can of seafoam. After a couple of corners with the gas sloshing around, the bog almost disappeared. It's still there sometimes, but not bad. It will sometimes bog a little but then it overcomes the bog after a brief hesitation & starts accelerating. Also after I added the seafoam the idle went down from 800 to 550 or so. I re-adjusted.

280 miles averaged 24.2 MPG with many grades & much full throttle action.

Doesn't want to start when warm unless you give it a little throttle. I suspect rich mixture in idle circuit. (EDIT: with open vacuum lines it would start easily with no throttle, but was hard to start cold with no choke. Starts easy now when cold with no choke in 70+ degree weather).

Going up grades I would downshift into 2nd & at full throttle it would pull decently from about 4200 - 6000RPM then shift into drive. Mostly kept it below 5500.

Now what?

.

Edited by DT250a, 08 September 2012 - 11:14 PM.


#42 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 09 September 2012 - 03:21 PM

Check you Engine's ignition Timing... My Weberized EA82 runs better at 20º (Like the EFi EA82's) despite the under-the-hood Sticker says it should be at +/- 8º.

Also, run seafoam directly to the intake.

Kind Regards.


#43 djellum

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Posted 09 September 2012 - 03:34 PM

I am a fan of driving them. keep it clean and retune it often, but simply driving it will fix or break a lot. either way work is getting done.

Test equipement exists so that you dont have to guess. hook up a timing light, vacuum gauge, etc and make sure you know where your at. Webers are supposed to be sensetive to fuel pressure so check the pressure. I still maintain that you need to first make sure that all the vacuum leaks are gone, it can still run and start with a small vacuum leak. get all the linguini off of the motor since you dont need it for the weber setup.

probably something easy is pour a half can of seafoam in the oil, then do the seafoam in the carb treatment. once you finish with the smoke show from foaming the valve train, change the oil. this will clean out a lot of gunk from the motor.

you shouldnt see large jumps with fuel octanes. go with the lowest octane you can get without pinging, but it shouldnt stall on 91 unless its out of whack somewhere. I was running 91 (normal blend) since my motor was out before I got it, and have been stepping it down. mine likes 89 best so far, but I have some timing problems that are likely causing it. you should run fine on 87.

1)fix vacuum leaks and remove unneeded equipment
2)check and set timing correctly, and test distributor for mechanical and vacuum advance.
3)tune or have someone tune the carb to make sure your set properly.

if all that checks out your sitting pretty well, chase problems as they appear.

#44 DT250a

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Posted 09 September 2012 - 03:36 PM

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What is a good tire height for a 16" swap on these cars?

I want a little taller tire, but not so much that my poor 3AT is even more gutless.

I'm thinking 205/50-R16 in an SUV type tread. Any suggestions?

This 24" tall tire should clear everything right? I will be adding the 2" lift, but don't want too tall of tires, nor do I want to cut the body at all.

I think the car would look good with tinted windows & gloss black wheels with the lighter body color.

Here's a set on craigslist that have the look I'm after. 205/60-R15 would be a good size at 24.7" tall. Would also be cheaper priced tires over the 16's.

Any opinions?

Posted Image

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#45 DT250a

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Posted 09 September 2012 - 04:49 PM

.

This isn't a daily driver so no worries that I'm just going to be driving it in a state of poor tune, causing more problems.

I do plan on buying a timing light & vacuum gauge / pump kit.

While I do have a lot of tools, they are mostly related to 2-stroke motorcycle work.

Next step will be to clean & degrease the engine so that I can tackle vacuum lines & eliminate any possible leaks.

Then I will seafoam the intake & oil & change oil / filter.

I also want to change the wires & plugs. Any certain parts recommended for this?

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#46 wallaby

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Posted 21 September 2012 - 11:34 AM

the "problem" with those wheels will be offset,
they will hang out of the fenders....looks cool but will require more bashing/trimming to clear

i have stock offset Mazda pickup 14" alloys on my brat with 195/75 R14, no lift and no bashing/trimming.....AND they don't rub at all but they don't look as cool with tyres hanging out of the fenders....

depends what you want...

#47 DT250a

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Posted 21 September 2012 - 10:37 PM

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Thanks for the heads up. This wagon is too clean to bash the fenders in. I will keep looking. I think I want black wheels & tinted windows. The Mazda option looks promising. I had an extra set of Mazda factory spokes like 10 years ago. Sold them with the snow tires on them. go figure.

It would also be nice if I could find something with center caps.

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