the sucker king Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 I have done a dozen axels on old subarus, our outback looks like the same job as the old ones. BUT - There isn't enough room to get a hammer on a punch from the top, do you drop the exhaust and hit it from under? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 Most people use a long punch designed for axle roll pins or you can use a socket extension and put the end of the punch in the female end of it...... I never drop exhaust to get at the pins. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the sucker king Posted September 4, 2012 Author Share Posted September 4, 2012 thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avk Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 7/32 drill bit inside a 1/4 socket on a suitable extension. What else would you need a 7/32 bit for, anyway? But the tool mentioned by the general is the best thing to have. I just used one for the first time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 goto sears and buy a 7/32" roll pin punch. They cost bout 7 bucks. I've seen people break off drillbits in there and then it makes it real fun taking it out. Its like using an easyout when you should have just welded a nut onto the broken bolt. You just end up spending more time trying to fix a "shortcut" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 Drill bits are very hard and can shatter when impacted by a hammer blow. I once had a peice of drill bit embed itself in my hand from such an incorrect use of a tool. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ocei77 Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 I bought a set of pin punches (IIRC 5/16 is the szie needed). Cut a 1"square piece of wood stock (any would do) about 16" or so long., drilled a hole 2" deep and slightly smaller than the shank into it. Inserted punch and used it to knock pin out from top. If I need to do it again, I'll do something similar. O. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avk Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 (edited) Drill bits are very hard and can shatter when impacted by a hammer blow. I once had a peice of drill bit embed itself in my hand from such an incorrect use of a tool. GD I agree that this precaution is important when dealing with a rusted pin of unknown origin. My experience with OE stainless pins has been that they come out without a fight. Of course if the OP can wait for obtaining proper tools, they should order the axle pin remover, or at least a plain 7/32 punch (not available in hardware stores). I thought that on a 6 mm hole, a 7/32 drill was easier to use than a 3/16 punch (tried both). Edited September 4, 2012 by avk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp98 Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 If you have a Harbor Freight store near by they have a kit of long punches that I bought when I had to do mine. They work great and a great price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 snap on sells a punch ment for the job has a tit on the end to sit in the pin hole to center it works very well with a six inch extention like GD said the punch is like 30 $ and i love mine has done 500 pins no problem the ps side is a pain i come from above sometimes is easyer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 yep, get the right tool/set up and it's easy. i've never had a problem getting to them and i've done numerous axle repairs. Drill bits are very hard and can shatter when impacted by a hammer blow.rather easily at that. i intentionally break them to make them shorter - for using with a right angle drill in tight spaces like the front of the engine to avoid removing engine/radiator, condensor. the strong...but brittle...drill bits easily break. kind of like concrete - very durable and strong, but brittle - not intended for impacts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avk Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 snap on sells a punch ment for the job has a tit on the end to sit in the pin hole to center it works very well with a six inch extention like GD said the punch is like 30 $ and i love mine has done 500 pins no problem the ps side is a pain i come from above sometimes is easyer There's a newer version of this tool, LT-730, with a small tip on the end to fit snugly inside the pin and hold it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 http://www.toolsource.com/axle-tool-subaru-p-134649.html Dont buy snap on. Buy what the dealerships use. its 15 bucks and its shouldered so you dont have to hold the pin when reinstalling it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avk Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 Yes, that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njdrsubaru Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 make your own cut an old long screw driver and youve got a perfect tool for years to come i made mine that way... and i use it everytime i need an axle changed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89Ru Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 Drooling over the magnetic tipped shouldered punch but 3/16" punch from HF works on passenger side. Its 8" long and 0.555" dia knurled handle fits between exhaust on '96 OBS. Wish it was 10" though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 Drooling over the magnetic tipped shouldered punch but 3/16" punch from HF works on passenger side. Its 8" long and 0.555" dia knurled handle fits between exhaust on '96 OBS. Wish it was 10" though. That's what she said. On a more serious note! A straight 3/16" punch fitted into a deep socket with an extension works great if you don't have the axle pin tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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