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removing axel pin on a 97 outback
Posted 03 September 2012 - 09:19 PM
Posted 03 September 2012 - 09:41 PM
Posted 04 September 2012 - 12:22 AM
Posted 04 September 2012 - 01:41 AM
Its like using an easyout when you should have just welded a nut onto the broken bolt. You just end up spending more time trying to fix a "shortcut"
Posted 04 September 2012 - 01:54 AM
Posted 04 September 2012 - 07:13 AM
Cut a 1"square piece of wood stock (any would do) about 16" or so long., drilled a hole 2" deep and slightly smaller than the shank into it. Inserted punch and used it to knock pin out from top.
If I need to do it again, I'll do something similar.
Posted 04 September 2012 - 08:06 AM
I agree that this precaution is important when dealing with a rusted pin of unknown origin. My experience with OE stainless pins has been that they come out without a fight. Of course if the OP can wait for obtaining proper tools, they should order the axle pin remover, or at least a plain 7/32 punch (not available in hardware stores).
Drill bits are very hard and can shatter when impacted by a hammer blow. I once had a peice of drill bit embed itself in my hand from such an incorrect use of a tool.
I thought that on a 6 mm hole, a 7/32 drill was easier to use than a 3/16 punch (tried both).
Edited by avk, 04 September 2012 - 08:10 AM.
Posted 04 September 2012 - 09:03 AM
Posted 04 September 2012 - 09:31 AM
Posted 04 September 2012 - 09:36 AM
rather easily at that. i intentionally break them to make them shorter - for using with a right angle drill in tight spaces like the front of the engine to avoid removing engine/radiator, condensor. the strong...but brittle...drill bits easily break. kind of like concrete - very durable and strong, but brittle - not intended for impacts.
Drill bits are very hard and can shatter when impacted by a hammer blow.
Posted 04 September 2012 - 09:52 AM
There's a newer version of this tool, LT-730, with a small tip on the end to fit snugly inside the pin and hold it.
snap on sells a punch ment for the job has a tit on the end to sit in the pin hole to center it works very well with a six inch extention like GD said the punch is like 30 $ and i love mine has done 500 pins no problem the ps side is a pain i come from above sometimes is easyer
Posted 10 September 2012 - 08:46 PM
cut an old long screw driver and youve got a perfect tool for years to come
i made mine that way... and i use it everytime i need an axle changed
Posted 21 September 2012 - 07:55 PM
Posted 21 September 2012 - 08:48 PM
Drooling over the magnetic tipped shouldered punch but 3/16" punch from HF works on passenger side. Its 8" long and 0.555" dia knurled handle fits between exhaust on '96 OBS. Wish it was 10" though.
That's what she said.
On a more serious note! A straight 3/16" punch fitted into a deep socket with an extension works great if you don't have the axle pin tool.
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