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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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removing axel pin on a 97 outback


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16 replies to this topic

#1 the sucker king

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Posted 03 September 2012 - 09:19 PM

I have done a dozen axels on old subarus, our outback looks like the same job as the old ones. BUT - There isn't enough room to get a hammer on a punch from the top, do you drop the exhaust and hit it from under?

#2 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 03 September 2012 - 09:41 PM

Most people use a long punch designed for axle roll pins or you can use a socket extension and put the end of the punch in the female end of it...... I never drop exhaust to get at the pins.

GD

#3 the sucker king

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Posted 03 September 2012 - 11:58 PM

thank you

#4 avk

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Posted 04 September 2012 - 12:22 AM

7/32 drill bit inside a 1/4 socket on a suitable extension. What else would you need a 7/32 bit for, anyway? But the tool mentioned by the general is the best thing to have. I just used one for the first time.

#5 torxxx

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Posted 04 September 2012 - 01:41 AM

goto sears and buy a 7/32" roll pin punch. They cost bout 7 bucks. I've seen people break off drillbits in there and then it makes it real fun taking it out.

Its like using an easyout when you should have just welded a nut onto the broken bolt. You just end up spending more time trying to fix a "shortcut"

#6 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 04 September 2012 - 01:54 AM

Drill bits are very hard and can shatter when impacted by a hammer blow. I once had a peice of drill bit embed itself in my hand from such an incorrect use of a tool.

GD

#7 ocei77

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Posted 04 September 2012 - 07:13 AM

I bought a set of pin punches (IIRC 5/16 is the szie needed).
Cut a 1"square piece of wood stock (any would do) about 16" or so long., drilled a hole 2" deep and slightly smaller than the shank into it. Inserted punch and used it to knock pin out from top.
If I need to do it again, I'll do something similar.

O.

#8 avk

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Posted 04 September 2012 - 08:06 AM

Drill bits are very hard and can shatter when impacted by a hammer blow. I once had a peice of drill bit embed itself in my hand from such an incorrect use of a tool.

GD

I agree that this precaution is important when dealing with a rusted pin of unknown origin. My experience with OE stainless pins has been that they come out without a fight. Of course if the OP can wait for obtaining proper tools, they should order the axle pin remover, or at least a plain 7/32 punch (not available in hardware stores).
I thought that on a 6 mm hole, a 7/32 drill was easier to use than a 3/16 punch (tried both).

Edited by avk, 04 September 2012 - 08:10 AM.


#9 jp98

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Posted 04 September 2012 - 09:03 AM

If you have a Harbor Freight store near by they have a kit of long punches that I bought when I had to do mine. They work great and a great price.

#10 ivans imports

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Posted 04 September 2012 - 09:31 AM

snap on sells a punch ment for the job has a tit on the end to sit in the pin hole to center it works very well with a six inch extention like GD said the punch is like 30 $ and i love mine has done 500 pins no problem the ps side is a pain i come from above sometimes is easyer

#11 grossgary

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Posted 04 September 2012 - 09:36 AM

yep, get the right tool/set up and it's easy. i've never had a problem getting to them and i've done numerous axle repairs.

Drill bits are very hard and can shatter when impacted by a hammer blow.

rather easily at that. i intentionally break them to make them shorter - for using with a right angle drill in tight spaces like the front of the engine to avoid removing engine/radiator, condensor. the strong...but brittle...drill bits easily break. kind of like concrete - very durable and strong, but brittle - not intended for impacts.

#12 avk

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Posted 04 September 2012 - 09:52 AM

snap on sells a punch ment for the job has a tit on the end to sit in the pin hole to center it works very well with a six inch extention like GD said the punch is like 30 $ and i love mine has done 500 pins no problem the ps side is a pain i come from above sometimes is easyer

There's a newer version of this tool, LT-730, with a small tip on the end to fit snugly inside the pin and hold it.

#13 torxxx

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Posted 04 September 2012 - 02:50 PM

http://www.toolsourc...u-p-134649.html

Dont buy snap on. Buy what the dealerships use. its 15 bucks and its shouldered so you dont have to hold the pin when reinstalling it

#14 avk

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Posted 04 September 2012 - 03:06 PM

Yes, that one.

#15 njdrsubaru

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Posted 10 September 2012 - 08:46 PM

make your own

cut an old long screw driver and youve got a perfect tool for years to come

i made mine that way... and i use it everytime i need an axle changed

#16 89Ru

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Posted 21 September 2012 - 07:55 PM

Drooling over the magnetic tipped shouldered punch but 3/16" punch from HF works on passenger side. Its 8" long and 0.555" dia knurled handle fits between exhaust on '96 OBS. Wish it was 10" though.

#17 Fairtax4me

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Posted 21 September 2012 - 08:48 PM

Drooling over the magnetic tipped shouldered punch but 3/16" punch from HF works on passenger side. Its 8" long and 0.555" dia knurled handle fits between exhaust on '96 OBS. Wish it was 10" though.


That's what she said. :lol:

On a more serious note! A straight 3/16" punch fitted into a deep socket with an extension works great if you don't have the axle pin tool.




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