herb Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 I'm getting ready to replace my rotors, drums and pads/shoes and I have a few questions before I get started. As I understand it, the caliper comes off, then the caliper bracket but what I'm not fully understanding is how to remove the hub and rotor. Any insight is greatly appreciated, as I'm still getting familiar with my first ea82. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 I have a set of new never used rear drums 4 bolt EA82 for sale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 I'm getting ready to replace my rotors, drums and pads/shoes and I have a few questions before I get started. As I understand it, the caliper comes off, then the caliper bracket but what I'm not fully understanding is how to remove the hub and rotor. Any insight is greatly appreciated, as I'm still getting familiar with my first ea82. Thanks! You are correct on the caliper and bracket. On mine, the rotor just slides off the splined axle. It might be stuck and need a little persuasion. I use a 3-jaw puller and it only takes a little movement to free it up. Some use a mallet to knock it loose. I am trying to learn to how get things done with minimal use of a hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92_rugby_subie Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 You can use a rubber mallet and itll pop off. If youre not reusing the rotor, just smack it off. I had to use a puller on my Mitsubishi awhile back.... man it took 30 mins to pull it off even with the slide hammer and puller... The guys at the parts store said they'd never seen rotors so worn down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 Wonder Wedge Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 These EA82s have a "captive rotor" design meaning the rotor bolts to the hub, and the hub must be removed to remove the rotor. easiest way is to take MOST of the load off the car (wheel still attached), remove wheel cover/hubcap, pull the cotter pin and while holding e-brake (or wheel chock) loosen the center castle nut. Then remove the wheel, caliper and bracket, then the whole rotor/hub assembly SHOULD slide off the CV axle spline. (It MAY require some persuasion from behind, just be gentle: you can damage/dislodge the wheel bearings) Now you can undo the 4 bolts holding the rotor to the hub and knock off the rotor. POW! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somick Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 Make sure you rotate the caliper piston. Do not push on it. You can use a large screwdriver, or a special tool for it. Good luck, Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 (edited) dont use a screwdriver to turn the calipers in. goto ANY parts store and buy the little square screw in caliper adapter thing. its like 10 bucks, its got tabs on all sides of the square to fit just about any make/model of screw in brake calipers. When you pull the pad bracket off, make sure to not lose the lock washers that are on the 17mm bolts. if you lose those, it allows the bolts to run INTO the brake rotors. (I found this out the hardway the first time I did my breaks 15 years ago) make sure to look at how the piston in teh caliper sits as well, if I remember right the slots in the caliper will sit horizontal. it has to be in that position for the caliper to slide over the new pads. The hub and rotor will stay as one piece during removal. Once you get the rotor off and on the ground you can pull out the 4x14mm bolts and it will separate the rotor from the hub its self. The tool I'm talking about looks similar to this, but its a square with similar tabs sticking off each side. they fit on a 3/8" rachet. Goto where the Evercraft tools are @ napa and you'll find the little square thing I'm talking about http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=SER41546_0060787241 Edited September 12, 2012 by torxxx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 I am trying to learn to how get things done with minimal use of a hammer. Where's the fun in that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dj7291993 Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 I am trying to learn to how get things done with minimal use of a hammer. Being professional doesn't mean you use the hammer less, it just means you know which one to use. As for the brakes, they're pretty easy with a tool for the pistons. I know Autozone has a fancy caliper compressor you can rent, but it's a bit pricier than the square tool. You'll need a 36mm socket for the axle nut, and a new cotter pin. You can use a mallet or a puller if they're stuck. I use a screw type puller, rather than a slide hammer. Got it at harbor freight cheap, kinda clumsy to set up, but it works great once it's on. Then you'll probably need some hammer taps to knock the rotor off the hub (after the 4 bolts are out). Putting it back together isn't too bad. If the axle is a little bit stubborn sliding in, you can use the nut to help pull it through. If it's really stuck, pull it back off and make sure it's lined up right. The axle nut gets torqued to 145ft/lbs. The back will vary slightly on fwd vs 4wd. Still, they're pretty simple, especially since there is no parking brake. I know the fwd can be changed without pulling the tire off (not recommending, just noting). Just be careful of the wheel bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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