12 replies to this topic

[nfactr]

I have a 95 legacy with 197k on it that developed a whine from somewhere up front. At around the same time the reverse went out so I swapped in a salvage transmission 4eat hoping the noise would go away, but it still has not. The noise is semi-high and almost sounds like cavitation. It only happens when the engine is under a high load, gets increasingly louder as things heat up, and is proportional to the engine rpm, not speed. Yesterday it got really hot and the engine started to bog down when starting from a stop. It felt like something was physically fighting the engine and the car didn't want to roll. When stopped the resistance was enough I could sit in gear and the car wouldn't roll forward. In park the engine still seemed like it was under load and wouldn't idle below 1200. It did have the AC on, but this is still abnormally high even for AC on. When I shut the car off it rolled forward a bit like the engine was holding it in place until it was off. I was off the brakes for about 30 seconds before it shut down, so it wasn't the normal roll as the park clicks in. I ran it in FWD around the block and it didn't seem to change anything. I just have a hard time thinking both transmissions have the same problem. I'm desperate for a solution before I totally mess something up. I'm thankful for any help anyone could offer.

[1 Lucky Texan]

seems like you could have 2-3 different issues.

Did you confirm the new transmission has the same final drive ratio as the rear diff?

Has the driveshaft carrier bearing and u-joints been examined?

If you did tight turns in a parking lot, would the car jerk? The new transmission could have a bad cltchpack or Duty C solenoid and is exhibiting torque bind.

When was the timing belt last changed? A slipped TB could cause reduced power.

If you listen under the hood, where does the whine seem to come from? Does the sound change when you turn the steering wheel?

Is a CEL on? what codes are stored?

what is the mileage on the car and it's general condition? are you the original owner?

[bluedotsnow]

I have a whine too x.x I think its the carrier bearing or damage from winters auto disabling my duty c valve body so the clutch packs and bearings weren't lubricated for many thousands of miles.

[nipper]

I have a whine too x.x I think its the carrier bearing or damage from winters auto disabling my duty c valve body so the clutch packs and bearings weren't lubricated for many thousands of miles.

Doesnt work like that, they were all lubricated as long as the engine was running.

[nfactr]

Did you confirm the new transmission has the same final drive ratio as the rear diff?

Not sure, but it is from the same model year, engine, and has the same transmission code.

Has the driveshaft carrier bearing and u-joints been examined?

I will look closer at them, but when they tranny was down they felt ok and I didn't see anything glaringly wrong.

If you did tight turns in a parking lot, would the car jerk? The new transmission could have a bad cltchpack or Duty C solenoid and is exhibiting torque bind.

It does exhibit a little bit of torque bind when cornering, though not near as bad as the old transmission did.

When was the timing belt last changed? A slipped TB could cause reduced power.

TB is about 18 months old, replaced after I had to reconstruct the damage from my autoshop not properly reinstalling the crank pulley, timing gear, and key.

If you listen under the hood, where does the whine seem to come from? Does the sound change when you turn the steering wheel?

The power steering pump does have a leak that needs to be repaired, I can't reproduce the noise unless the car is moving, but have tried to play with the steering when the car is moving and making the noise and it doesn't seem to be PS related.

Is a CEL on? what codes are stored?

Haven't seen a CEL at all for these problems and not for a few years, whatever was stored I think will be gone as it sat sans power for two weeks during the tranny swap.

what is the mileage on the car and it's general condition? are you the original owner?

It has 197,000 on it and is in relatively good condition. I am the second owner and bought it in 2002 with 78,000. I take good care of my cars and she has been well maintained. I just can't for the life of me figure this out.

[1 Lucky Texan]

I assume the replacement transmission also came with the front diff?

If someone paced your car on foot (be safe!) could they hear this sound and perhaps help determine if it is in the front or center of the car - or biased towards one side?

you could, temporaily, operate without the accessory belts to eliminate whining from the ps, alt and a/c pulleys.

I just can't figure a whine aasocuated with the odd power problems you're having that wouldn't be driveline related - thus the idea you may have 2 problems.

i dunno, maybe someone else will add something more constructive.

[nfactr]

So embarrassing moment, upon closer examination one of the water proof connectors on the top of the tranny didn't latch closed and rattled loose. Got aggressive with it and it is now latched firmly closed. This fixed the power loss and bogging down issue.

Now I am just left with the whine and now some random rattle that sounds almost like a bearing rattling around in the transmission. The rattle continues for a bout 30 seconds after the car is off like something inside is still spinning.

I like the idea of taking off the belts to eliminate the PS as a source. I was thinking of going redneck and duck taping my voice recorder into various parts of the engine compartment and then finding where it is loudest.

On the list for tomorrow...

[1 Lucky Texan]

So embarrassing moment, upon closer examination one of the water proof connectors on the top of the tranny didn't latch closed and rattled loose. Got aggressive with it and it is now latched firmly closed. This fixed the power loss and bogging down issue.

Now I am just left with the whine and now some random rattle that sounds almost like a bearing rattling around in the transmission. The rattle continues for a bout 30 seconds after the car is off like something inside is still spinning.

I like the idea of taking off the belts to eliminate the PS as a source. I was thinking of going redneck and duck taping my voice recorder into various parts of the engine compartment and then finding where it is loudest.

On the list for tomorrow...

30 seconds? that's a long time. Maybe just a heat shield is loose but, 30 seconds, wow.

does the car hold in park - parking pawl may be broken off. Of some problem with the flex plate. weird.

[nipper]

noise after the car is off ???

I dont know how long the front fans spin after the power removed, but 30 seconds is a long time. There isnt enough mass there to keep them spinning that long.

Maybe you are hearing the blower motor?

Everything should be off when you shut the car off. Sometimes the Duty C can get vocal, doesnt mean it is bad.

Try shutting the car off in gear and let us know what happens.

[johnceggleston]

wasn't 95 the year that had the ABS pump problem?
it would run after the car was turned off. sounded like a buzzing under the hood?

find the fuse for the ABS pump and pull it. you will get a dash light, but if the noise stops, you have found it.
re-insert fuse to confirm.

[1 Lucky Texan]

wasn't 95 the year that had the ABS pump problem?
it would run after the car was turned off. sounded like a buzzing under the hood?

find the fuse for the ABS pump and pull it. you will get a dash light, but if the noise stops, you have found it.
re-insert fuse to confirm.

OOoooohhhh - very good. It was an early 90s or so with a buzzing ABS. Can't recall if it would make a noise when OFF or not though.

[Fairtax4me]

I've heard IAC valves chatter after the engine is turned off, or when the key is turned to ON but not to start. Some can do this for several minutes before stopping.
There is also a vacuum pump in the upper right corner of the firewall that could be spinning down or slowly releasing vacuum after the key is turned off.
ABS pump noise is also possible and should be easy to identify.

Front engine noise can be too many things to say for sure. Remove the accessory belts and start the engine to rule out AC, alt, PS, and related idlers.
Timing idler noise can sound very much like a mad cat in your engine. Remove the covers and listen to each with a long handle screwdriver or mechanics stethoscope.

Torque bind That doesn't go away with the FWD fuse installed can be grooved output drum or a jammed duty C solenoid. An electrically dead C solenoid should set a trans code and cause the light to flash. Does the Trans Temp light work during the bulb test after starting or key ON?

[1 Lucky Texan]

a mis-aligned air filter 'box' will make a noise.(the tabs don't get inserted correctly)
usually described as whooshing though.