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Wow! Tire won't come off?


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32 replies to this topic

#1 UMT

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 12:58 PM

So, I've been trying to pinpoint the source of my suspension problems and decided to rotate the tires today and see if I can get a better look at the suspension at the same time.

Now, I freely admit that I'm a little late in rotating these tires but I'm only going to get a couple months use out of them before switching to snow tires for the winter and buying new tires in the spring.

Anyway, take lug nuts off front drivers tires and the wheel doesn't want to come off! (?????) But, I play around a bit and off she comes. Go the the drivers side back tire, remove lug nuts and that TIRE WILL NOT COME OFF. ????????

I've never had this problem as long as I've had this car and used to rotate the tires religiously!

Anyone else ever have this problem? Any idea on the best way to get it off without ruining something?

Thanks,
UMT

#2 rverdoold

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 01:29 PM

Hard to imagine but they might have corroded to the hub block. Try WD-40 in the lug nut holes.
Remember to clean your disc brakes afterwards otherwise it will not stop properly.

#3 Fairtax4me

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 01:42 PM

Kick it. It's just rust/corrosion. You should wire brush the hub and wheel after you get them apart, and spray or brush on a rust inhibitive grease around the center bore to prevent this issue.

#4 Prwa101

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 01:52 PM

WD40 a HAMMER and a block of wood :Flame:


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#5 987687

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 02:11 PM

Dead blow hammer to the edge of the rim.
I've had to absolutely pound the heck out of stuck wheels.

Another thing you can do is loosen all the lug nuts finger tight, and back them off JUST A TAD. Drive the car forward or back a few feet and slam on the brakes.
That should also loosen it.

#6 davebugs

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 02:26 PM

Block of wood and sledge hammer. I usually do it underneath. A 2x6 works best for me on basically the bead of the rim.

Don't forget to spin the wheel from time to time. Don't wanna pound all in the same place.

I always buff the wheels and the metal mating surface on the car and anti-seize when reinstalling.

#7 jp98

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 02:52 PM

I have always just loosened the lugs nuts a little and drive over a curb to break rims loose on trucks. It should work the same with a car.

#8 UMT

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 10:49 PM

So, I go over to my buddies house tonite to borrow a sledgehammer and all he has is a sledge/wood splitter on the other end and he says:"Make sure you don't use the wood splitter end!" Ha.

In 10 + years of being a Subby fanatic, doing all my work on my cars, I've never had this problem.

A Old Timer Mech told me today: "it' always a good idea to put some axle grease where the wheel rim hits the axle/drum...."

So, thanks everybody. This is the best bunch of people in SubbyLand that I know!

#9 UMT

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 10:52 PM

By the way, do you guys (gals?) want to hear how it turns out? If the sledge/wood splitter (Ha) doesn't work out, I'm going to put the lug nuts on finger tight and go weaving around, hitting every bump I can...

Does anybody know what worked?


UMT

#10 Fairtax4me

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 11:20 PM

I've never had one that didn't pop loose from a good swift boot, but I don't exactly live in rust town, though we do get our fair share. But the worst I've ever had was a wheel that the center bore was too small and was forced over the hub center with the lug nuts. That one took some persuasion but eventually wiggled loose.

Driving on a loose wheel should work as well, but I've been able to avoid doing that one.

Did you get it loose?

#11 UMT

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Posted 02 October 2012 - 05:11 AM

I've never had one that didn't pop loose from a good swift boot, but I don't exactly live in rust town, though we do get our fair share. But the worst I've ever had was a wheel that the center bore was too small and was forced over the hub center with the lug nuts. That one took some persuasion but eventually wiggled loose.

Driving on a loose wheel should work as well, but I've been able to avoid doing that one.

Did you get it loose?


I put the boot to the front one and it took a bit but off it came off but I've never experienced anything like this rear one.. It's going to take a day or two for me to get back to it again so,, stay tuned..

#12 987687

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Posted 02 October 2012 - 06:48 AM

I'm going to put the lug nuts on finger tight and go weaving around, hitting every bump I can...


UMT


Don't do that. Put them on finger tight, loosen JUST A TAD. Then go forward and slam the brakes on roll back and slam the brakes on. That should be enough.

Driving like a maniac with a loose wheel is a great way to sheer the lug studs off.

#13 CoupedUpSubie

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Posted 02 October 2012 - 07:08 AM

Remember when you put the lugs finger tight to spin the wheel and double check them all and make sure the wheel isnt floppping around as that could easily lead to a bad day.

#14 UMT

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Posted 02 October 2012 - 09:10 AM

Remember when you put the lugs finger tight to spin the wheel and double check them all and make sure the wheel isnt floppping around as that could easily lead to a bad day.


I'm joking around a bit here. I'm going to try the sledge hammer deal first and we'll see what happens.

I'll let yous guys know! Ha.

UMT

#15 ivans imports

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Posted 02 October 2012 - 10:03 AM

i stand a 6x6 short block against the back side and hit the block with sledge thiss works happens to me dayly stuck salty rims its more of a problem geting a proper touque on them because titens up on center instead of wheel nuts. In one year have had over 40 subarus with loose wheels and 5 or more missing 3 or more wheel nuts make shure you antiseize the center of rim any check your toruque many times in a pattern.

#16 CNY_Dave

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Posted 02 October 2012 - 10:07 AM

On mine with AL rims I put anti-seize on all mating surfaces between the wheel and hub/rotor (and rotor/hub for that matter).

Doesn't take much to make a world of difference.

But, it's my wife's steelies that put up a big fight.

#17 UMT

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Posted 02 October 2012 - 10:14 AM

Some guy just told me that KY Jelly (Y'know, the sex stuff!) works the best!

Whatever, I just don't want to have this problem again. (And I suppose I could find a use for the left over KY stuff! Ha. )

Thanks, guys. (and/or gals)!

UNT

#18 Fairtax4me

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Posted 02 October 2012 - 10:48 AM

Some guy just told me that KY Jelly (Y'know, the sex stuff!) works the best!

Whatever, I just don't want to have this problem again. (And I suppose I could find a use for the left over KY stuff! Ha. )

Thanks, guys. (and/or gals)!

UNT


:lol: For some things, sure! But don't use KY on your car. (I know the car might look really good, but that's kinda gross :Flame: :lol: )

In all seriousness, ky is water based, it dries in a matter of minutes, then it's "lubricating" properties dry up with it.

#19 UMT

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Posted 02 October 2012 - 10:53 AM

:lol: For some things, sure! But don't use KY on your car. (I know the car might look really good, but that's kinda gross :Flame: :lol: )

In all seriousness, ky is water based, it dries in a matter of minutes, then it's "lubricating" properties dry up with it.


Hey, I suppose that's good to know! Ha....

#20 wally

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Posted 02 October 2012 - 07:13 PM

my rear wheels also stick to the hubs on my '95. i most certainly live in the rust belt, so i expect it.

i've had to resort to a sledge a few times, and really pound on it to remove the wheel. i'd tried driving/hard braking, but that didn't do it. the sledge did. i also clean the hub surface, apply copper/anti-seize, and clean/wire the wheel hub hole, and i still get the wheels stuck. i also have two sets of wheels, for snow tires and "normal" tires.

whatever works.

#21 MilesFox

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Posted 02 October 2012 - 08:02 PM

IF you are in a moist climate try sweating any moisture from the rust by heating it with a torch around the lugs. Just be careful to not heat soak the hub and cook the bearing grease. Then spray a penetrating lube on it while it is hot to displace moisture and to soak in while everything is expanded from heat so it can work its way in.This trick will work if you know how to do it. The idea is to evaporate any moisture absorbed into the metal. Good luck.

#22 987687

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Posted 03 October 2012 - 04:53 PM

I really try to avoid using a sledge. Not only will that destroy an alloy rim, wheel bearings don't like that sort of love. Going a few mph and really hammering on the brakes with loose lugs always does it for me.

#23 UMT

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Posted 03 October 2012 - 05:15 PM

I really try to avoid using a sledge. Not only will that destroy an alloy rim, wheel bearings don't like that sort of love. Going a few mph and really hammering on the brakes with loose lugs always does it for me.


Well, I gave it 2 wacks (not real hard ones) on the TIRE,,,, not the rim with the sledge and it popped right off.

Took everybody's suggestion and did some wiring brushing and greased the contact area's, lug nuts...

That's the end of this story.

Thanks to all for the help, advice and laughs.

(Now what am I going to do with all this KY Jelly? Ha)

Edited by UMT, 03 October 2012 - 05:18 PM.


#24 bratman18

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Posted 03 October 2012 - 05:23 PM

I usually never hit the actual rim when doing this. I give it a good whack on the side wall. It's plenty to break it loose, and you don't hurt anything in the process.

#25 UMT

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Posted 03 October 2012 - 05:29 PM

I usually never hit the actual rim when doing this. I give it a good whack on the side wall. It's plenty to break it loose, and you don't hurt anything in the process.


My car, a 99 Impreza Outback Sport has rear drum brakes. And if I had followed my usual routine of rotating tires at 6K miles, I probably wouldn't have had any problem at all. My front disk brake tires had little to no problem and didn't need 'the sledge.' I still greased them up anyway at the contact points. Certainly can't hurt.

I wouldn't consider hitting a rim with anything.

Either way, I learned something.




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