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New Orleans Brat!


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80 replies to this topic

#26 belacane

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Posted 10 October 2012 - 11:37 PM

I think thats the cleanest EA81 I've seen. Theres no oil leakage!? Did you clean it, or what?


nope, no cleaning done!
I believe TajMan (who I got it from) redid all of the seals/gaskets, so he must have done some cleaning too.

Lovin' my brat!

Next on the list:
- address the horrible squeel in the rear drums
- mess with the choke, distributor...etc. to see if I can fix the starting / idle problem she's been having.

#27 TheLoyale

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Posted 10 October 2012 - 11:40 PM

Swap it to rear disc like I did! You're front calipers will thank you :-p

As for Adjustments, if this is the stock Hitachi carb, you are better off doing a weber swap, gain more power/reliability, rid the engine bay of all that Emissions crap and make it super clean and simple :)

#28 belacane

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Posted 10 October 2012 - 11:42 PM

Swap it to rear disc like I did! You're front calipers will thank you :-p


I actually have everything to do that off an XT.
Not being all that mechanically inclined and also a noob in general... I'm not really clear on how simple/complex it is.
If it's just something that's intuitive (i.e take off the old stuff, then put on the new stuff) or if there are specific procedures to follow.
I'm betting there's a guide in here somewhere tho :)


As for Adjustments, if this is the stock Hitachi carb, you are better off doing a weber swap, gain more power/reliability, rid the engine bay of all that Emissions crap and make it super clean and simple :)


Yes, I was thinking of this. Where's a good place to get one?

Edited by belacane, 10 October 2012 - 11:49 PM.


#29 TheLoyale

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Posted 10 October 2012 - 11:50 PM

Weber swap kit? You'll be looking for the Weber 32/36 DGEV (Electronic Choke)

Ebay has complete GENUINE kits with the manifold adaptor for about $319. That is where I got mine. Real easy to hook up.

All you'll need to hook up to make it run is:

Fuel Line (You will need a different Fuel filter in the engine bay as you only need one thats an "In and Out"as you will not use the vent line. You will also not use the Return line)
Electronic Choke Wire
Disty Vac Advance to the front of the carb (Block off the 2nd port on the carb)
HVAC hose to any port on the intake manifold
Brake Booster hose to the large port on the driver side of intake

And thats it. You can leave the EGR bolted to the intake, just don't hook it up. It will act as its own block off plate.

You can then remove all the emissions stuff (Canister, Afterburn valve ect..)

I'll find a link for the kit for ya.

#30 TheLoyale

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Posted 10 October 2012 - 11:52 PM

Here you go.
http://www.ebay.com/...ac3ef2e&vxp=mtr

If you do go this route, and have any questions or want pictures of a clean swap, I have pics :)

I should also add. You will need to hook the PCV hose to the base of the new air cleaner the kit comes with. I have pictures of how I did that as well. I spent a lot of time on mine to make it look factory and clean (I hate hack jobs!)

#31 belacane

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Posted 11 October 2012 - 05:31 PM

Here you go.
http://www.ebay.com/...ac3ef2e&vxp=mtr

If you do go this route, and have any questions or want pictures of a clean swap, I have pics :)


Cool thanks!
Although truthfully, it's this is probably something I'll take on later when I have a bit more money. Although I do plan on investigating the problem with the current carb.

I think I'm going to go the route of the rear drum/disk swap first, since I think I have everything I need off of an XT.

Do you know if there are any good write-ups on that here on the board or elsewhere?
I'm not really clear on how simple/complex it is, or whether it's just something that's intuitive (i.e take off the old stuff, then put on the new stuff) or if there are specific procedures to follow.

#32 BuckarooBanzai

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Posted 11 October 2012 - 05:42 PM

Here you go.
http://www.ebay.com/...ac3ef2e&vxp=mtr

If you do go this route, and have any questions or want pictures of a clean swap, I have pics :)

I should also add. You will need to hook the PCV hose to the base of the new air cleaner the kit comes with. I have pictures of how I did that as well. I spent a lot of time on mine to make it look factory and clean (I hate hack jobs!)


If your looking for a Weber Kit, You might be interested in the one I have for sale here...

http://www.ultimates...724#post1139724

#33 belacane

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Posted 11 October 2012 - 05:55 PM

i vote for a roll bar and brush guard with winch and kc lights like mine:cool:(well still working on setting up brush guard but the roll bars look so cool in these:headbang:)
http://www.ultimates...ad.php?t=133905


Oh wow, shoot, I wish I had the cash for that... what a great deal!
Maybe coming over to see it will convince me, but I need to get my paycheck first :)


In other news - I found a rear disc conversion guide!! woot!

#34 TheLoyale

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Posted 11 October 2012 - 08:59 PM

Glad you found the guild. Yeah its basically, take off the old stuff and put on the new. You can't mess it up :)

You will have to change the hard metal line which would connect to the old wheel cylinder, as it will not have the correct bend in it to screw into the new caliper. (At least mine didn't)

#35 belacane

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Posted 11 October 2012 - 09:30 PM

You will have to change the hard metal line which would connect to the old wheel cylinder, as it will not have the correct bend in it to screw into the new caliper. (At least mine didn't)


What do you mean 'hard metal line'?
How do you change it?

#36 TheLoyale

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Posted 11 October 2012 - 09:40 PM

What do you mean 'hard metal line'?
How do you change it?


There is a metal brake line right now, which connects to your wheel cylinder. The bend in it will not work with the disc calipers, you will have to either use a pipe cutter, and cut it off, then re-double flare the line, and run a soft line to the caliper.

The flared end will look like this.
Posted Image

I don't have a good picture of where it connects to the caliper. I will get you a good picture tomorrow.

#37 belacane

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Posted 11 October 2012 - 09:49 PM

ok that makes sense.

how would you reflare a line? what tools would be necessary?

Edited by belacane, 11 October 2012 - 09:56 PM.


#38 TheLoyale

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Posted 11 October 2012 - 10:23 PM

A Double flaring tool. Any Auto parts stores will have them, it basically sandwiches the brake line in between two pieces of cast steel, then you use two fittings which will press onto the end of the line, first one will make a bubble style, that is to thicken the end so you can then add the double flare.

Flaring is kinda tricky, brake lines like to split/crack easily under stress.

This is the typical style you will find at parts stores. They work, okay, but need some practice.
http://www.ebay.com/...5f21491&vxp=mtr

I've used this one from Eastwood, is makes flares so damn nice, but it should for $250 :P
http://www.eastwood....aring-tool.html

Personally, I hate working with brake lines, no matter how many times I do it, I hate it lol!

#39 TomRhere

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Posted 12 October 2012 - 02:15 AM

When I converted the '85 BRAT to rear disc, I just twisted the steel line so it pointed upwards. Flex hose from caliper connected to the steel line with no problem.
Been driving it daily for 4 years now, no issues.

#40 belacane

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 06:34 PM

When I converted the '85 BRAT to rear disc, I just twisted the steel line so it pointed upwards. Flex hose from caliper connected to the steel line with no problem.
Been driving it daily for 4 years now, no issues.


Thanks Tom.
Also wondering.... Is there any screwing around to be done with the brake fluid proportioning? Ive read so many mixed opinions. Or maybe ill just find out myself when i try to drive it the first time

#41 TomRhere

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Posted 14 October 2012 - 03:11 AM

It has been said that one should install the proportioning valve when doing a rear disc swap, as a "Panic Stop" situation could cause the rears to lock-up, putting you in a spin.

You have that valve under the donor vehicle, so go ahead and swap it over to the BRAT. You will have to figure a mount spot for it.

Plumbing it in shouldn't be to difficult. Take note of how the lines are connected on the donor and replumb the lines under the BRAT to match.
You should be able to purchase pre-made lines at your local parts store, Choose the lengths closest to what you need, bend them to fit. A little extra length won't hurt anything, just bend an S curve or a loop in the line.

I didn't have the proportioning valve when I did the '85 BRAT. It stops straight with no rear wheel lock-up. I can see how it could happen though, as I have had it happen to me with a few of the mid '60's era pickups I used to own.

#42 MilesFox

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Posted 14 October 2012 - 08:05 AM

I have a complete xt with xt6 suspension. Same on my 3door coupe. I am swapping the agx struts from the xt to my 3door, and the xt will be left with stock xt struts with turned rotors and new pads, but it needs a rear wheel bearing. I would sell the whole car for what the suspension is worth. The car itself would be a good candidate for an ej20 swap. I am in milwaukee. The car needs to be out of my garage by mid winter.

#43 belacane

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Posted 14 October 2012 - 09:11 AM


I didn't have the proportioning valve when I did the '85 BRAT. It stops straight with no rear wheel lock-up. I can see how it could happen though, as I have had it happen to me with a few of the mid '60's era pickups I used to own.



I don't have one either. The donor car is somewhere in Utah. The rest of the parts were given to me when I bought the brat.
I don't even know what one looks like off an '80s soob. Is this valve a similar thing? .
I made a whole new posts for it here btw.

Edited by belacane, 14 October 2012 - 09:26 AM.


#44 Mechanical_misfit

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Posted 14 October 2012 - 07:17 PM

Sweet BRAT and awesome pics from the drive home with it! It looks like we could get a midwest old school meet going now that more of these cars are turning up!

#45 belacane

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Posted 14 October 2012 - 08:20 PM

Sweet BRAT and awesome pics from the drive home with it! It looks like we could get a midwest old school meet going now that more of these cars are turning up!




Thank you and yes I'd absolutely love to have some kind of
meet in the area one day!

Edited by belacane, 14 October 2012 - 08:28 PM.


#46 belacane

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Posted 17 October 2012 - 03:09 PM

Rust prevention continued! :headbang:
Since I brought my brat back to Chicago, I noticed some rust starting to form on the rocker panels already, so I sanded them down to the metal and gave them two coats of rustoleum undercoating.
I'm rather pleased with how it turned out! :cool:


Hopefully this was a good choice, but only time will tell...


My trusty angle grinder that I used to get the paint off:
Posted Image


old rust and paint sanded down to bare metal:
Posted Image


The final product (the black streak marks are not paint, but tar from a recent road trip, they'll go eventually too):
Posted Image


I still have a lot more paint work to do on the car.

Future body plans include:
- welding up the wheel wells where there are some nasty holes
- fix up the bottom of the doors, which are getting pretty rusty (not sure how yet, any tips are welcome!)
- whole new paint job (haven't decided on the color yet)

#47 AdventureSubaru

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Posted 29 October 2012 - 12:09 AM

Not sure yet. I'm feeling a bit timid to be too tough on her since my time and more importantly space to fix what's broken is limited... but I hope to make some nice off road-ish trips in the area, camping or whatever, and definitely some snow!! (minus the salt please!). If you have any recommendations in the IL/WI region, do let me know!


The Adventure car and I have had several good forays so far. I just moved to the area about 2 years ago. Devils Lake Wisconsin and Starved Rock State Park Illinois are great for lighter day trips.

Best adventures come from northern Wisconsin and the U.P. Porcupine Mountain Wilderness Area and Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore are breathtaking.

I want to try badlands off road park sometime as well for a little more romping.

Keep the updates coming!

#48 belacane

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Posted 05 November 2012 - 12:46 PM

Had some time this weekend to fix another thing in my list; this very creatively repaired tie rod boot.

Posted Image

and replaced it with a new boot as well as a new tie rod end as the old one was pretty much done for.

Posted Image


slowly but surely moving along... :)
Lately most of my time has been filled up with the fiasco of rebuilding my brother's '97 Altima engine (my first shot at a rebuild), and it's taking FOREVER! I can't wait till it's done and I have more time for my little Brat :)

Edited by belacane, 05 November 2012 - 12:49 PM.


#49 TheLoyale

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Posted 05 November 2012 - 12:47 PM

I spy GR-2s :clap:

#50 TomRhere

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Posted 05 November 2012 - 08:15 PM

This "is" coming from a "Red-neck", so no "flaming" please....

I have done some, "get me by", type repairs over the years. But thinking that boot repair beats me,,, hands down......




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